The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Malcolm, Dec 23, 2010.
Way to go Nick! I really dig the "fork" idea, not something you see every day.
Like the tuning fork idea!
Do you have room to weld a threaded boss to the rear face of the axle to take the bolt?If so ,you wouldn't see it from the front.
The inside radius of the funky fork is stainless steel. I agree needs to be black so it goes away. Putting that fork where we did was an attempt to keep it out of sight when the car is all together.
Yep! That's actually a better idea than just drilling through the axle.
I should also correct what I said earlier --- Andy had me buy a couple shoulder bolts from McMaster Carr that we thought would both be too short. Welding a threaded bung to the center of the axle will probably make one of those bolts useable.
Yep, all of the suspension components will be black. The radiator will either be right above the fork, or just in front of it like we talked (while still clearing the axle of course), so it'll be pretty well hidden no matter what.
The fork has worked before but when I did it I updated it to include a small sealed roller bearing to roll up and down inside the fork. I took the idea from a piece made many years ago by the Deuce Factory
Ah! Now I can see "the fork" better. Pretty cool! The other picture you posted on FB was deceiving. Thought you had a tight fitting square follower attached to the axle or something.
Hey, I know that Kevin Bacon! So all you guys can add up your six degrees of separation from me now.
The fork sounds like a good idea, but does it have to be so big and, no offense, ugly? I hope that won't show when the radiator and grille are on. The Busby fork is so small and trim, can you thin yours down a bit?
Well obviously you didn't read. The fork was made larger for mounting reasons due to the u bolts of the spring. Second as stated by Nick the radiator and axle cover 90 percent of the ugly fork. So Think of it assembled and not much will be visible.
Oh, hit a nerve huh? Sorry. You must be the guy that made that part.
I understand why it is wider, so you could mount it with those bolts on either side of the U-bolts. But does it really need the stiffener rib all around the outer edge? It probably weighs ten times as much as the Busby fork. Looks like maybe you could reduce the bulk, and make it less...., just less. Just asking, as I have never installed any of those before. Every part on our cars should be purposeful, yet beautiful.
Just to clear the air, I'm really not worried about what it looks like as long as it's functional. Appearance is subjective and as is already stated, you'll see very little of the FFork when everything is in place and assembled.
Would it be more pleasing to your eye if I drilled a bunch of holes in it?
I don't quite agree with your every part should be purposeful and beautiful... but that doesn't matter....
The build is looking great Nick. Thanks for posting the CAD model too. HVAC design has come a long way since I was doing it in the late 80's early 90's. Looks like fun. You guys hiring any old dogs?
Hey Nick, been watchin' from afar, & she's lookin really good. Hope to get a good look down at WOW's. See you next month. Dan
He said FFork
Looks awesome, subscribed!
Just came up on this build thread of yours!!! Looks great.I to have subscribed.
Be sure to check out part two!
iPhone - TJJ App
Here's Part 2:
So hows the build coming along in 2012?
I following this thread as it developed and decided to revisit it to verify that quarter elliptic springs were used as lower links on the rear triangulated 4-bar suspension. Look like my memory was correct.
Just wondering, Malcolm (hope you see this), if you have any comments about that rear suspension setup? Any bad habits like "darting" if you hit a big bump or pothole, or any "rear steer" on hard acceleration?
I'm in the thinking stage of building a '23 T with a turtledeck and would like to minimize the amount of room required for the rearend and suspension. With any luck at all I'd have room in the turtledeck for a 8-ish Gal. fuel tank, battery and maybe even a deflated beach ball.
Partly because of this build I am planning to use a similar rear suspension on my roadster. I too would like to hear how this has done since it has been around a while now.
Not to butt in but I've done several customer chassis with 1/4 elliptics and ladder bars with success. I use the Posie setup with P&J ladder bars. I built my first setup like this in 1984 under a steel 32 roadster using a 40 front spring cut in half for the top and a pair of bars for the bottom like a 4 bar. I see this car every so often in CA and it's got over a 150k on it with no problems.
It has worked out well. 50k+ miles so far. One thing I would change is doing a parallel 4-bar + panhard bar (lower bar is the quarter elliptical spring, no shackles) arrangement instead of the triangulated 4-link. The triangulated setup has good road manners, does well on the drag strip with slicks, but in an articulating situation - like pulling in at an angle to a steep driveway it puts a lot of stress on the axle bracket where the spring bolts on. It has broken twice. Now gusseted to where it shouldn't happen again.
Thanks, Malcolm. So the mount holding the spring to the rearend housing is breaking from the force of the leaf stack resisting the twist?
I appreciate the feedback. Congrats on 50K on the car!
I recall these front spring eye pivots from years ago selling circle track racing parts. https://pitstopusa.com/i-5069138-afco-pivot-assembly-front-spring-eye.html To my knowledge they're only made for the front of Chrysler type leaf springs, but I'd think something similar could be put together to fit other diameter and widths of leaf springs. Basically, they have a spherical rod end in the center and allow the spring and mount to flex. Can't see why it wouldn't work on the tringulated 4- bar using a quarter elliptic spring for the lower links.
Posies' make a shackle just for this purpose, I have used quarter ecliptic's on 4 cars. 2 were set up with a 4 bar and panhard bar, with no problems. I had nowhere near 50K miles on them. The last 2 are being set up with ladder bars with shackles off of the ladder bar mount to the spring. 1 car is done with just a few miles on it and the other I I'm in the building stage will have to see how these work. I had a sway bar on my Rdst Pu and I am putting one on the current roadster I'm building.
I'm enclosing a picture of the shackle that Posies' sells
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