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Projects The long process of finding a project car and adventures of the new guy.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by RaginPin3Appl3, Apr 4, 2016.

  1. Looks like a road trip.
     
  2. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    I talked to the guy about it and he says no side trim. How hard is that going to be to find?


    What'cha got in there, kid?
     
  3. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member



  4. Looks interesting. Ad contradicts itself, says it runs and drives w/ 283, then says it's only got a non running engine bolted in. Needs glass and floors need pans. It also needs trim. But has potential.

    The one in Kanosha has glass, better body, needs drivetrain, but has a valid IL title and looks strait.

    IMG_1482962394.982957.jpg IMG_1482962404.957834.jpg IMG_1482962414.580478.jpg

    You can piece together some driver/beater quality trim off ebay, but even that will get pricey. You could go full on Kustom Kar guy, they hate trim.

    Either car seems like a good start to a project.
    Any project will cost thousands of dollars very quickly. Any old car (from a 4 door Rambler to 57 Chevy convertible) will always cost you $10,000 minimum to be fixed up and roadworthy over a couple years, (I've found).

    Better to start with a complete, running, legally titled car, but as you know thats harder to come by than a talking pig.
     
  5. I'd offer 1800.00 for that car above. if he takes it, it leaves you with money to buy the missing parts. If not, I would bet another one is out there in better/more complete shape for that kind of money. There is no way that car would fetch 3k...around here anyways.

    I'm not an expert but I've bought a lot of cars in my life. When the right deal comes along, you will probably know it. But you've gotta be prepared.
     
  6. Slopok
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 2,919

    Slopok
    Member

    That ought to tell ya something right there, there's a reason for the price drop, always is!
     
  7. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    yeah, the seller of the kenosha car put up more pics. rust looks pretty bad. the one in greene seems a lot more solid. theres a third car up in remsen that's complete but has rust issues. http://www.autabuy.com/Vehicles/Details.cfm?VID=884791&Year=1958&Make=CHEVROLET&Model=BISCAYNE


    i'm trying to decide which car is the best out of the 3 and go from there.
     
  8. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    also the one in greene has the standard listing of all their cars but they specialize in running cars
     
  9. Buy the better looking one as long as it's solid. The one you just posted looks like a rust nightmare
     
  10. Slopok
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 2,919

    Slopok
    Member

    Both look bad in the pictures and pictures especially of White cars hide sin, look at the dents in the blue roof.
     
  11. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    i noticed that too. the white/blue car is probably in the worst shape rust wise because of what could be hiding under there.

    I'm waiting to hear back from the guy with the windowless but more solid one.
     
  12. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    Like Chris says $1500 to $1800 max on the the middle one or walk away. They are all bad candidates for a restoration. They are parts cars and that is the attitude you need to display to the seller when talking to him.
     
  13. low budget
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 5,566

    low budget
    Member
    from Central Ky

    koolkemp likes this.
  14. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    I'm thinking my best bet is the car in greene Ia, at coyote classics. Since i don't weld, it has the best body and looks ok underneath. Either way i go i'll be missing trim though. Not sure when i'll make it up there though especially since i've never driven with a trailer so i'd need to bring a buddy along. Still gotta find out more about it before i spend a whole day going up there


    What'cha got in there, kid?
     
  15. Black Panther
    Joined: Jan 6, 2010
    Posts: 2,133

    Black Panther
    Member
    from SoCal

    Might be easier to find trim than to fix rust. Buy the best body you can.
     
    flatford39 likes this.
  16. You're not really gonna learn until you dive in, so I think that any of these cars would be fun and interesting for you, and worth getting. Anything in the world that's worth having takes hard work.

    You ARE a great welder (you just haven't learned yet). &&@%% the name brand elitists, get yourself to Harbor Freight, or Craigs List and buy a little cheapy and practice. I'm giving my 10 year old daughter lessons and she lays a good bead!
    IMG_1483004523.497897.jpg

    All that being said, seeing this is your 1st old car, and your school/$ situation I would lean towards something like this one in Milwaukee, maybe you could make a deal, for some extra money be way ahead of the game, actually saving $ in the back end.

    https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/5886972079.html

    IMG_1483004053.821501.jpg

    That being said, the funnest times I ever had with cars were when I was way over my head or wondering if I made a mistake. In 1994, driving away from a guy's house who I had just given $600 for a running/driving '57 Ford Ranchero, I was thinking to myself: "this car is F-ing ugly, what did I just do?". I drove that car for almost 10 years, grew to love it, gave it away (long story), would give my left nut to have it back. I tore the engine and transmission apart from my Caddy, thinking "I have no idea what I'm doing. What have I just done?"........Thing's running and driving great.

    Boring old guy rant over. Let us know what you do! We are pullin' for ya.
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2016
    Sporty45 likes this.
  17. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

  18. utahdodge
    Joined: Sep 13, 2008
    Posts: 209

    utahdodge
    Member

  19. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Well, I haven't found a 58 yet. There was one for sale near me in MO that had 33,000 original miles. car was mint. guy owned it since the 70s and it was a straight 6. With 33,000 and that condition I couln't afford it though.

    I did find an interesting car a couple hours from me, wanted to see what you guys think. guy wants $3000 for it and keeps dropping the price. started out at 3800.

    A 57 is far from a 58 but It's one of my favorite cars and I know parts are everywhere both old and repop.

    00000_ekOXL9lBJOs_1200x900.jpg 00000_ekOXL9lBJOs_1200x900.jpg 00A0A_4sOWPXZ7ZVF_1200x900.jpg 00B0B_8ghlpeCMBRU_1200x900.jpg 00C0C_czW4Oy3nAD9_1200x900.jpg 00d0d_8jgeSUxkTh2_1200x900.jpg 00q0q_3TyO3uClLob_1200x900.jpg 01414_44XFrLvwj3p_1200x900.jpg
     
  20. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    has a 283 and the glide is in the trunk. has all glass.
     
  21. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    an I may be wrong, but is it a factory AC car?
     
  22. Deluxe heater. A/C dash would have holes for ball vents. Super unlikely on a 210.
    You gonna buy this one? If you think 3 grand is too much, you're in the wrong hobby. Seriously.
     
  23. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Im on spring break this week so i can get a trailer and go get it. Just wanted to see what other people think about it first. It obviously needs some sheetmetal work and i don't weld so i'd have to farm that out but everything else i can do myself


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  24. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Seller also says the title is in the last owners name. How big of a deal is that


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  25. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,870

    squirrel
    Member

    title can be a big deal or not a big deal. Usually if the current owner didn't get the title in his name, it's because he can't...???? maybe tell him you'll buy it if he gets the title in his name.

    Or at least look a the title and see for yourself what the status is (ie is it signed, notarized, or whatever needs to be done), and ask the Illinois experts what it takes to transfer a title in that condition.
     
    flatford39 likes this.
  26. steinauge
    Joined: Feb 28, 2014
    Posts: 1,507

    steinauge
    Member
    from 1960

    JMO but I would walk away from that one.That is NOT a good car for a novice especially one with a limited budget .
     
    flatford39 likes this.
  27. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    You really need to focus on something that is running and driving since it's your first build. That 57 above will make you drop out of this great hobby once you see how much money it is going to cost you to get it roadworthy. As far as the title goes if it's not in the sellers name that is a giant red flag. If it is signed and dated by the previous owner you are going to have to track him down and have him sign an affidavit that he sold the car to the guy you bought it from. The person on the title could be dead as far as you know. I just sent a title for 75 Triumph motorcycle that wasn't dated but had a signature that made it through the system. If it's dated on the back where his signature is it's worthless.

    I see about ten miles of welding wire you are going to go through to get that one on the road. Since you don't weld that means you are going to pay someone to do it for you. It's going to break your budget.

    Find something you can drive and start enjoying the hobby immediately and learn how to fix things on a running car. After that experience and you are a little more financially secure in your life then go find a project.
     
    '56 150 and e1956v like this.
  28. Man that 57 would make a great drag car!!

    @squirrel guys in my state sometimes don't put cars in their name because they have to pay sales tax on them if they do. It's not a big deal who's name it's in as long as it's signed. But that's WA the other 49 may work differently.
     
  29. RaginPin3Appl3
    Joined: Mar 31, 2016
    Posts: 1,172

    RaginPin3Appl3
    Member

    Well, seller sent me a pic of the title. It's signed by the previous owner, and isn't dated. He says he also has a bill of sale from the last owner. I may still try to get it unless you guys think that's fishy


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  30. VTjunk
    Joined: Jul 5, 2013
    Posts: 287

    VTjunk
    Member

    I'd ask to see more pics of the 57 before I went to look at it. Ask to see the inner rockers, body supports/mounts, trunk pan where it meets the wheel housings, and the tailpan. The rust shown in the pics isn't half the story I bet. Also how are the door bottoms, inner structure etc. Having done the body restoration on a 57 convertible, and sourcing parts for my 56 Pontiac which shares some components, i can tell you that good used or reproduction 55-57 sheet metal isn't cheap, then there's the cost of having someone do that work for you, or buying the tools and equipment yourself and learning. Do some virtual shopping, see what the cost is for some of this stuff before you go at least.
     

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