Projects The Hitchhikers Guide Episode VI: Return of the Hitchhiker.... Hot Rod Model A banger

I had to use silver solder to fix the idle inlet valve and cleaned up the fuel needle and seat, plus flat glass wet plate sanded all the carb mating surfaces. Hopefully it all seals up nice and tight.

The head i repainted after a burp/backfire that spayed gas out the top of the carb. I also took it off to have a peak at the cylinders after i had some noise from the ring after flooding it badly with the aforementioned carb problems.

It currently set up with the stock updraft, trying to get the balls up to try again.

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Spark it up!!!

 

Sigh...looks like I'll be doing the same thing. I've got gas puking all over everything & it's flooding like a mother. Can you send me the info on your gasket set? I must have misplaced it...

 

I'll look it up for you when I get home.

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Thought I should give you guys an update. Been pretty busy with many customer projects at the shop.

Been working on the master cylinder mount. This will bolt to the stock model A center crossmember and use the stock brake crossover bar to actuate the master cylinder.


It uses a master cylinder off of a 1968 Mustang. This is one of the few modern parts of the car.



The linkage consist of the stock arm that connects to the crossbar cut off of a extra and welded to the passenger side. It was also necessary to shorten it 1 inch.





As you can see when everything is in here things get pretty tight.



But I was able to get everything to fit and the lines in. Everything looks like it will work really well

 

Glad to see your still at it. With all the trouble your having with the motor I was thinking this project might get pushed in the corner for awhile.

 

It's definitely being ignored some for other A's.

as for the engine...

I've been messing with that too. I figured out that the exhaust valves aren't sealing against the seat well. They are used and the work is unknown. At this point I have decided to replace the valves and do a valve job. Maybe bigger valves and some other tricks. Point of this all is I want to tear the winfield engine down and thoroughly check it out ...just in case....

which brings me to this little serial number unstamped industrial engine I have.... This is my current temporary engine that will go in soon, so I can take my time and have something to drive while I fix the big HP engine.

 

Sounds like a good plan. Hopefully the big HP engine doesn't need much to get it running properly.

 

Good plan. Since I'm running up to Snohomish this week, I might have to stop by and lend a hand.

Oh, and you want to sell me that '32 Grille [/jedimindtrick]


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Well Matt, looks like you're becoming the King of Traditional parts...............okay, west of the mountains anyway........good on you.

 

I've always had a soft spot for how a stock Model A frame looks. Cool photos there.

 

Yeah, hopefully. I just can't wait any longer. rather drive it with 40hp than nothing.

Give me a call. we canmaybe talk about the 32 shell....it's shortened. It was on a 29...

I don't know Bob, you got a pretty good collection yourself.... Hope you're doing okay.

They do have there own look. I'm pretty fond of them too.

 

Glad to see it will be on the road soon. It's been to long

 

That's a pretty neat way to mount your m/c, I like that.

 

I don't remember who originally said it.... but... Big mess, big success!

 

As opposed to a clean one with a car that don't run? Haha!

 

Anyone have any thoughts on getting the transmission drain plug on a 39 top loader to stop leaking fluid?

i was thinking i could use some type of thread sealant.

 

I use teflon tape, but it still leaks.

 

Try liquid teflon, should find it any good hardware or plumbing place. Non hardening and resist gas, oil, etc. I used it for my gas shutoff. Still no leaks.

 

What about the non-hardening Permatex?

 

Hylomar Blue

 

Good to know! ...that was my first go to instinct. thanks

thanks guys! I bet all of these would work well, I've got some Hylomar, so I will give that a go.

 

On another note, I assume any play in the V8 u joint is not acceptable?

 

It is if your stuck in death valley and you've only got the one...

 

Matt that's not a big mess looks like mine after I tidy up
Trans plug buy a new brass plug it will seal and you will not need to put goo on it every time remove it
Any uni should have zero free play if you can feel even a tiny bit it needs a rebuild

 

Oh, Brass you say....will give that a go....thanks!

Cool thought that any play is bad, it's just I have about 5 of them and they all feel the same....

Are they rebuildable? or do I need to find NOS or buy a chinese repo ?

I've searched Ford barn but haven't found much on the subject.

 

for those wondering...yes you can rebuild a early ford v8 u joint

Ford # A-7084

I found a reproduction rebuild kit, I'm trying to find out country of origin, but fear it is off shores and something I don't want to use.

Luckily a friend said he may have a NOS u joint I can aquire. So I am going to go that route.

 

Matt call Mac VanPelt last I head he had some NOS u joint

 

Make sure you aren't confusing the U-joint sliding in it's bushings as "slop". They are supposed to slide side to side in those bushings. If there is any wear in the bushings it will allow radial movement. That is when the bushings and cross need replacing.

I've read that most U-joints will be found in good condition, and that has been my experience. Of all the grungy old joints I've pulled off transmissions, I haven't found a worn one. Rust is another story, but never too worn.

 

Okay...so, I think I am a couple days from putting it back together. As long as I haven't forgotten anything unforeseen it's literally waiting for everything to be bolted together for the last time and to have fluids added. I just hope the brakes don't leak!

I've wet sanded the firewall...again. gonna do a final sand on it again tomorrow and buy some paint. Hopefully paint it wednesday... Then stick the freshly painted stock motor in. The transmission back in with the new u joint. I do need to figure out some correct grease for the u joint.

I've got the brake lines all nicely routed, done, and clamps mounted. I realized I would have needed to take the engine and trans out to drill holes where I really wanted them to have clamps. So I guess that worked out anyways. I've pretty much changed any Phillips to flathead on the truck. I've got the E brake stuff figured out. I do need to paint the brackets for that. Got a good U joint for it. Mine was definitely bad.

I'm not sure what else. nothing really to see. It all pretty much looks the same as it did before. I'm really hoping it all bolts together now and everything works as planned. No major problems or leaks. I've run the motor that I am putting in so I know that will work for now. Once I get a little breathing room with work, I'll dig into the other motor. I've got it on the test stand so I can mess with it out of the truck. which will hopefully make that easier. Pretty sure I am going to pull it apart and port and big valves at this point and maybe full pressure oiling. We'll see.