Projects The flathead build begins

So I now have the engine home. Little history. My good friends father in law Dan has an old 1950 Ford Pickup. Dans father had the engine replaced in the late 1970s. Looks like they ended up replacing it with a rebuilt Mercury Flathead. Anyways before they had a chance to put the flathead the truck Dans father passed away. The Engine sat in the bed of the truck for 35+ years. Then I got it to my house yesterday. Here are some pics and the damage. One picture I'm pointing to a stuck valve. Engine is locked up. I've only had a chance to remove on head.

 

Welcome to the HAMB.
In the pickup bed for 35+ years?!
Looks like ya got a serious project there.
Keep us posted. We have a couple flatheads - anxious to know what ya come up with.................

 

I have a few in Napa that have to be in better shape than that one

 

This is all new to me. Motors not so much but a flathead. That's all new territory. I'll keep all of you guys posted. And if you or anyone could narrow down the year of the motor that would be awesome. I know it's a Mercury engine. And the Ford Truck it was going in was a 1951-1952.

 

Well, based on where the coolant hose location it's definitely a 49-53 model, the specific kind can be told by a code cast into the heads.

8BA - 49-51 Ford car
8RT - 49-53 Ford truck
8CM - 49-51 Mercury
EAB - 52-53 Ford (most desirable stock head)
EAC - 52-53 Mercury

 

The hardest part of a flathead rebuild is the valve system. We did a couple in the last year that were in the same shape as yours. The valve guides have to move down so the horseshoe retainer clips can be removed so we just plasma cut around the head of the valve as close to the stem as possible and then drive the guide down from above. All 16 brand new valves, guides, springs, retainers, keepers, and seals can be bought on ebay for about 200 bucks. Cylinders can be bored as much as 0.250 but most don't go over 0.187. The ridge between the valve seats and cylinder can be ground away (relieved) and do away with the corroded pits. Flat heads will take either wet or dry sleeves if needed. I see by the 10-10 crank on the re-builders tag it been worked on so BE SURE to check the cam journal size. There are 0.010 under cam journals out there that give you zero oil pressure with standard bearings. Buy only genuine Johnson adjustable lifters and not the cheapies. Flatties are pricey to re-build any more so we figure around two grand, our cost, in parts. By the time you get it purring you will be able to work on any non-electronic engine ever built. Have fun.

 

Sounds to me Coiliver that your very knowledgeable and been doing this for some time. Yes it has been rebuilt. Here is a picture of the rebuild take from over 30+ years ago!!! Which I dig

 

There is a hidden bolt in the water pumps. Look inside the water inlet. Should come out easy.

 

Sounds good. Today I'm removing all the exsessories off the front of the motor plus the other head and see how bad that side looks.