I have with Winfields. They work. You can chamfer both sides for the Allen flat head and then they will work on up or down draft just by flipping the adapters. The largest I have converted with the plates is a size "C". The settup in the photos is a pair of "BB"'s. I do not use the pumps on the SR's. I make my own throttle body to float chamber gaskets as the universal "one size fits all" gaskets available have too many holes. I also make my own linkage. Nothing but time. As I have stated before, my first pair, one of which is on the left in the photo were made with a Dremel tool and part of a 6 pac of Coors lite. You do not have to alter the carburetors.
Give Taylor Engine a call: They're off of Washington, on Rivera (in Whittier) Mark will probably answer. Tell him you got the info off of HAMB. 562-698-7231 They'll be able to help you, or direct you.
I have a motor "hidden" aka: buried in the back of my shop if you need a test motor. I almost said that I have a 29' Coupe that you can buy to test it on, but I still keep talking myself outta' putting that coupe up forsale. It is a good thing that I have it "stashed" a one of my family members house about 4 hours away. Chris
Winfield carburetors. A short primer. There is no mystery about using and setting up winfield carburetors on most of our "A" or "B" engines. While all of the articles and reprints of literature and earlier articles tell you to open the intermediate and high speed jets 32 clicks and start from that setting and go through a series of adjustments to properly set the carburetor. I have found that opening the intermediate 27 or 28 clicks seems to work, at least for me. Single or dual. I open the high speed jet 36 clicks. I have used "Color tune" and an Edelbrock air fuel mixture gauge and have found that the intermediate needle seems to work at the clicks I stated. Just think how fast the car would be if I tuned it properly! The idle mixture jet controls the air, contrary to what you may have read. The float level is critical. The bowls should be as close to level as you can get them when setting the level. Winfield manifolds that I have checked are machined from 2.5 to 3 degrees. I set mine static, that is with the engine not running. If you have to bend the lever I recommend removing the lever from the top and bending it in a small vise. You only have to break one float lever pivot boss in a float chamber cap to fully understand why I say this. I lap the needles in, made a small tool that keeps them centered while lapping The air bleed size is also important. I have found that most have been drilled oversize. The air bleeds are designed to restrict the flow of fuel from the wells. If you have a carburetor with oversize air bleeds they may seem to "blubber" almost like the engine is loading up when you get off of the throttle and right back on after a hard run. I set my carburetors in front of my garage which is at approx. 3850 ' above sea level and make no changes. i used to think I needed to but have not really found it necessary. Dual linkage must be accurately balanced. No slack on either end.
Thanks for the Winfield tips Bill. How do the banger engines run with just one carb with the Winfield intake ?
More info: I finally got a chance to check compresion. #1 30# #2 25# #3 115# #4 125# I can see the valves open and close in #1 & #2. I think the head gasket needs changing. .
may you have no holes in your pistons this one had 30# My engine smoked big time and pushed all the oil out the breather so you should be save
Those Winfields are perfect. I am afraid to ask how much though. I am sure it is listed somwhere but how many CFM are they? I also like the Carter YF that Crazydaddyo posted but I have never seen one with a manual choke like that. Only heat or electric choke. Were they some other application other than Y block marine?
They are actually Carter YH carbs. YF's were down draft. They were also used on Corvette Inline six and Corvair turbo chargers. .
I have used single Winfield carburetors on a downdraft Winfield manifold in the past. After the engine reaches normal operating temperature they run fine. You have to have them at operating temperature to adjust them. Most of the Stromberg single down draft manifolds have the heat flange on them while Winfield down draft manifolds have no provision for heat and are known, at least in my opinion, to be "cold blooded" until warmed up. I think a single "BB" would out perform a Stromberg on the same engine. This is MY opinion. Also, you don't have to search for the best size jets or power valves Ed Winfield is quoted as saying (I'm paraphrasing) "Any carburetor that takes a wide variety of passenger cars from 5 MPH to maximum speed is also going to be a good racing carburetor" He felt his market was the person that desired more performance, reliability, and fuel economy. The use of his carburetors on race cars was his best advertisement. I read a quote somewheres in the past where he said the "B" would flow 120 or there about. The main problem with the old carburetors is wear. I reworked the "BB"S's on my 2 port to where it could idle down to 500 RPM's I built up the thin edge on the "butterfly" with JB weld on one that showed more daylight in that area than the other. You just add a little every day after you dress down what you applied the day before. Set them so the JB is down so it will not flow the wrong way. Final dressing is with 400 wet or dry fitted to the throttle bore and stroked up and down until the butterfly moves freely. It has to have clearance. Some really show wear in that area, I guess it comes from running dirt tracks with no air cleaner Some times the butterfly seems to be stuck but it is actually the shaft binding in the bronze bushing. I have some adapters to back the bearings up while I lightly tap the shaft back and forth while applying light oil and they will free up. This will move the shaft in the butterfly so be careful if you try this. You DON"T try to free them up by hitting or putting too much pressure on the possibly 80 year old butterfly. I have replaced loose bronze bushings on the throttle shaft bearings, by loose I mean they turn in the throttle body casting. I only work on my own carburetors. I don't want the responsibility of possibly damaging some ones treasure
taken from post #42........... Engine Specifications Rated Horsepower 24.03 SAE Brake Horsepower 40 HP at 2200 rpm Firing Order 1-2-4-3 Compression Ratio: 4.11:1 Compression Pressure: A6050A head, 76 PSI A6050B head, 110 PSI B6050 head, 90 PSI Piston Displacement 200.5 cubic inches Bore 3.876" Stroke 4.250" Torque 128 foot pounds at 1000 rpm
I have a motor/trans so I'm good, well unless yours is a "B" or "C" . You and Henry need to get on that Special Coupe. He'll be driving before you know it!
ok a few questions i have b engine that was a stock rebuild, babbit, c balanced crank .040 over i have a good foundation for hopping it up i have a stipe 340 cam adjustable lifters dan price timing gear set should i use regular assembly lube when i put this thing together? also does anyone have a quick print of the oil pump mods to the shaft and intake port of the pump? i know not to make it wider just taller (the opening) but how much do i take off the pump shaft Dia thanks tk
Question for you all... i am building a Model A right now and i am about to put in a T5 trans, i just had my flywheel lightened, ordered my adapter kit from Dwight Bond and now i need to know what clutch and pressure plate to use? I've searched and searched on this forum but have yet to come up with the right one. Can anyone tell me where or who i can order the right cluth and pressure plate from to fit my application? thanks in advance... Shaun
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