The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by SamIyam, Jun 25, 2013.
Looks great! subscribed.
Sam, I do not like what I am hearing. it is bad..
I have a 31 Cab and bed, a healthy 468 BBC, t400, a frame and front susp just laying in the corner of my garage. Oh ya there is a 9inch in another corner that is not assigned to any of my currenty projects..
I was supposed to put it together with fenders and a sbc to sell.. this kind of talk can get people into trouble...
Ken, it's a simple little project... don't geek out on the details, just get it built... solid... and haul ass.
Hi Samb. Following this one with interest.
Two weeks ago, that was a pile-o-parts...looking good!
Sam, are we going to see you driving this in the hotrod class of Drag Week in 2014.
I wish I had your energy level. Your smokin' right along this one.
Looking forward to following the progress.
First pass down the track it ran 9.33 at 133mph then the new carb went sour and it took me along time to get it right again. Then I started driving the car in my avitar so the roadster just sets.
One of my goals is to do Hot Rod Magazine's Drag Week with this thing...
If there's a class for "Cheap-N-Fast"... I might just win.
Other than that, i'd just like to go for the experience of it all!
I can't wait to see this project come together, Sam. I remember seeing a picture when you bought that cab and I have wondered once or twice if it would get built. This thread answers that question. I always enjoy your projects. You build cool shit and have fun doing it!
Looking forward to the tube bending bit...
Enjoying the build. Boy you didnt fool around with those diagonals! HD! Nothing is more fun then this type of build. The first step is the longest and then the project bites you and you work on it at every oppourtunty. All the best. I am going for 9.98 with my guess.
Are you on Instagram?
Tube Notching 101.
You don't have to have a fancy Bridgeport... but it helps. I've used a "Joint Jigger" notcher for years. In fact, this is the first time I've ever notched tube on a mill, so all the cages I've ever done (about six or seven) have been done with Mr. Jigger.
Anywho... I'm going to add a tube at the bottom of the two uprights at the back of the cage. You'll notice that the uprights are at an angle, so you can't just do 90 degree notches...
Here's how I do it.
Zero out your digital level on the tube you want to parallel or be perpendicular to.
Get a reading on the upright you want to notch in to.
Both uprights are only .2 degrees off from each other. So that's .1 degrees each... which ain't shit.
Cut some tube on my $40 band saw... (swap meet score)
I don't always zero out the digital level on the mill. You can... but I figgered I'd exercise my brain.
Table is at .7
The quill is at 89.3... makes sense, as it SHOULD be 90 degrees to the table.
So then I subtract my 72 degrees from 89.3 and get 17.3
This is the degree that I set my tube at in the mill.
Oooooooooooohhhhh... nice fit!
Set it up at zero degrees... and tack weld in place!
I've followed these steps for all of the angled notches in the entire cage... and it works slick!
Here are the two uprights that support the upper "birdcage" and that I also mounted the seat belt mount to, and the upper seat mount.
NHRA requires that you mount the seat with four bolts on the bottom and at least one to the back.... I have two.
Those of you who build roll cages for a living might notice my little screw up... I put the seam to the outside of the shoulder bar. The tube is .134... but I was still worried about it. So I had a buddy come over and sonic check it, and it's ok. WHEW!
I guess I had my head up my ass that day...
Actually, I know the problem... All the cages I have bent up have been DOM tubing. DOM has a seam, but it is drawn over a mandrel and has a very consistent thickness. ERW (Electric Resistance Welded) has a noticeable seam. Around the seam, the tube can get pretty thin. This particular tube measures .124 in some places. Luckily that's plenty large... the minimum is .118
Yeah Sam go!!! All the work is looking really clean. Littleman would love this build if he hasn't seen it yet.
yes sir ree bob! @sugar_city_speed_shop
Would you put a Hurst Quarter Stick in your "traditional hot rod"??
Of course not... that's why you can buy them all day long for around $50.
I got this one for $30 at the Stockton Swap Meet about a year and a half ago.
Problem with it was that the little arm you push forward on to put the shifter into reverse was hacked off.
A little bend rod welded on fixed the problem... in fact, the new arm is a little easier to push than the stock style arm.
I've had Hurst Quarter Stick shifters in a few cars, and have always liked them better than the B&M models... To me, they are the best automatic shifter for a hot rod/race car that needs to have a reverse lock out and neutral safety switch.
You gotta mount them solid though. I took a piece of scrap steel and made a mount. This piece of steel was welded in between the frame rails when I got the frame. It's a chunk left over from when they pie cut the front frame rails... you can see it right in the middle of the frame here:
Cut down, notched... and some holes drilled in it.
That's it for now!
Building stuff from swapmeet parts is hotrod n at its finest.the only thing i bought new for my rod was bearings,gaskets,oil,paint,brakes,rotors,clutch,ring&pinion,&wire harness.thats no bull. Love your work man looks great keep the pics come n. Kick butt car.
looks good , I will be watching
Nice work Sam
what is the purpose of the angle iron welded to the front of your workbench?
I'm guessing to catch schitt?
That's my welding table!
The angle iron is to hold round stock.
You can clamp round stuff in it to work or weld...
Works real slick.
And it also catches schitt...
Great idea for the working aspect of it, I kinda assumed on the catching schitt but was hoping for more. I'll be adding that feature to my welding table first chance I get.
I want to watch! Looking good!
I bought a pair of 31 spline aftermarket axles from my neighbor Nick.
Nick had a 65 Mustang that he narrowed the rear end in... and then didn't like it.
56" wide... puts my American five spokes just where I want them!
$100 and they are brand new with new bearings and retainer plates!
Now before you think I'm the luckiest guy in the world... with the coolest neighbors (which I might be)... It took me about 3 years to buy them.
He had them out at a garage sale... wanted to sell, I didn't have the money... didn't want to sell and I had the money.
Then he decides to clean up one day and I was there with the cash!
I figured they would be good for something... some day.
And then this Drag Rod idea came up... and I had 'em!
Anyway... have you ever had axles first and then tried to narrow a housing to fit?
Lot's of math... which Steve and I failed... twice...
But betwixt us, we got it right.
I then cut the free (thanks Simeon!) housing in Steve's band saw... what a nice machine!
Here it is... back at home:
Then the Wednesday night crew (friends gather at my place Wed night to work on stuff) helped me get her all tacked in... UP SIDE DOWN!
My bro-Matt will appreciate that one.
So the next day I was supposed to take it to Steve's to use his JIG to narrow it. But luckily when I went to weld the brackets on, I caught that it was up side down!
I used Mr. Digital level to measure and write down what angles the brackets were on... got her flipped over.
I welded the brackets on correctly, and then used Steve's JIG to hold the ends while I welded them on.
I go to Steve's shop once a week during the summer to work on customer cars... but this past week, I worked on my rear end.
It's kind of nice working in a real Hot Rod shop... he's got all the good machines, tools... and space.
It also helps that we've been best buds since high school... so we have a great time together.
More to come!
Very nice Sam! Nate would be loving this.
FWIW, I'm using a Hurst Quarter Stick in my Dragmaster but I modified the reverse lockout so that it is a neutral lockout. W/O having a reverse valve body, it is to easy to bump it into neutral if you take your hand off of it after the shift to third... at least in the digger, there is NO room in there.
I love your projects Sam, another great one.
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