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Projects The Build Without (Now With) a Body

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by LostInOC, Jan 27, 2021.

  1. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 122

    LostInOC
    Member

    Cleaned, prepped and painted... B1F5B6D1-48E7-47AB-9CF1-91945ED113A9.jpeg
     
  2. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,840

    rusty valley
    Member

  3. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 2,568

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Wow, you kicked it up a notch.
    I'll drag race you when you are on the road...in a banger of course.
    Subscribed
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  4. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 122

    LostInOC
    Member

    Finally got a little time to start assembling the motor. I sat and scratched my head for some time how to drive the valve guides in and how far to drive em in. Steve over at Berts was awesome and had the number needed in a couple minutes. He also recommended using an air hammer to drive em in. now the new dilemma; how to drive em in without marring the valve guides or having the air hammer slip off. Time for a little garage engineering.

    Ended up grinding the air hammer bit down to fit through a socket that would keep the bit centered over the bolt that went in to the valve guide. A brass washer on the bolt kept from damaging the valve guide. I used some tape to mark the depth but that ended up being a PITA to remove. I was surprised how well this worked. Took more time to set everything up then it took to drive in all the guides.
    IMG_3655.jpeg IMG_3658.jpeg IMG_3654.jpeg IMG_3657.jpeg IMG_3659.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

    brEad, ratrodrodder, Six Ball and 9 others like this.
  5. Jacksmith
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 706

    Jacksmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The decisions you're making and the direction you're going is brilliant... keep it up & you'll have a truly righteous traditional Hot Rod.
     
    Runnin shine likes this.

  6. This is badass man, what do you plan on using for "hop up" parts?
     
  7. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 122

    LostInOC
    Member

    Thanks amigo!

    Right off the bat, a 5:1 high compression head, lightened flywheel, Stipe cam, and 12v ignition are going in. Next will be a single downdraft intake with Strom 97 carb, speed head, and headers. Totally undecided on header/exhaust situation as of now. I've seen so many things that look and sound great but am unsure which direction to go. Planning to drive the hell out of the car, so loud and obnoxious will get old fast, however I still want some go/show aspect that's somewhat period correct. From there, who knows..... I'm certainly no traditional Model A hotrod expert but I learn something new every day and this thing keeps putting a smile on my face and a dent in my wallet.
     
    Dedsoto, 1low52 and Retson the Racer like this.
  8. That's awesome man! Down the road if you want to experiment with OHV. We've got a Crager crossflow thats for sale. Currently sitting on a janky Model B block. 118790692_10217782475102906_7442956625401527812_n.jpg
     
  9. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 122

    LostInOC
    Member

    That’s really interesting. Gonna go flatty for now but an OHV conversion in the future might be in the cards. The funds focus is really aimed on finding a body.
     
  10. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 122

    LostInOC
    Member

    There’s a bunch of sand in the water jacket inside the motor casting. What’s the best way to get it out? Tried compressed air but it doesn’t seem to be getting it all. Thanks
     
  11. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,840

    rusty valley
    Member

    Thats always an issue when rebuilding old flat v8 blocks too. I use a long skinny screwdriver that will go all the way down to the bottom, scrape, twist, curse, scrape some more. And while its all happening I have my shopvac squeezed down with duct tape and a piece of copper tube that fits in the jackets. Clean the vac out first so you can see what you get. Combo of vac, scrape, and air blast is about all you can do. I have a photo of the pile removed from the last v8 block but i am on a different computeriser now. if interested i can fire up the old beast and post it
     
    bct likes this.
  12. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 122

    LostInOC
    Member

    Been hosing it out, scraping, hitting it with compressed air and running a heat gun to get it all dry. Each time I get a little more out. I guess the question now is how much crud is acceptable? There’s no way I can reach all the nooks and crannies to get everything!
     
  13. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 122

    LostInOC
    Member

    Want to assemble! DE0377EB-44FD-481E-BF21-225724276875.jpeg 2BCA5020-911B-49BB-8D06-82B949092D00.jpeg 361064DF-A945-4592-9DEA-D799192E40F4.jpeg
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  14. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,840

    rusty valley
    Member

    I would say if you have done all you can do, you are done. I dont know any thing about that block, but often the water jackets are lower than the route out for crud to get trapped . on the old v8's, we are talking about 60-70 years of crap that was probably never cleaned effectively on the last rebuilds. thats not the case here. I would assume the factory cleaned it, and you cleaned it again, put it together! And, an overhead head sure would look right on that fancy block !
     
  15. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 122

    LostInOC
    Member

    And it shall be done. Oh boy, what a headache sorting out the bearings. Let's just say they all required individual massaging to get the crank to spin somewhat freely when torqued. Not 100% happy about it but it'll do.......hopefully. Not much of an engine guy, done a few but this was certainly the most challenging. 10 hours of muckery took place with a few choice words and trips to NAPA. IMG_3688.jpg IMG_3690.jpg IMG_3693.jpg IMG_3697.jpg IMG_3698.jpg IMG_3700.jpg
     
  16. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,840

    rusty valley
    Member

    Thats too bad that things did not fit as they should. I am sure the block n crank was not cheap. The scrape on the one shell looks like a bad grind on the crank? I wont brag that I am an engine builder expert, but if a new bearing scrapes like that something had an incorrect finish, the crank, or the shell. the scrape is mostly off to one side, poorly machined/ crooked bearing seat in the block? Time savor is a product made for fitting babit bearings. Invented for final fit of prop shafts going thru the hull for navy ships. I never hear of anyone here mention it, but good stuff. Its an abrasive like valve grinding compound, but breaks down to nothing so it needs not to completely washed out. You mix a little bit with oil, spin the crank, and look again to see where it is removing material. Never heard of it being used with "modern" bearing shells, but if it were in my shop, thats what I would have done...because its on the shelf. Too late now, have you plastigauged the clearance? the link, good stuff for fitting lots of stuff https://ws2coating.com/timesaver-lapping-compounds/
     
    kidcampbell71 and loudbang like this.
  17. So what does the block/crank supplier have to say about your issues?
     
    ottoman and loudbang like this.
  18. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 122

    LostInOC
    Member

    We got it figured out. The bearing anti-rotation notches in 3 of the bearing caps were undersized. A dremel and needle file solved the problem with a set of new bearings. My inexperience led me down the path of filing the bearings, which I've come to learn is a big no no. Customer service from Terry Bertz (engine manufacturer) is awesome. Crank is now rotating freely and I learned a bunch. Win win!
     
  19. speedster t
    Joined: Nov 19, 2019
    Posts: 22

    speedster t

    What the heat gun for
     
  20. Matthew H.
    Joined: Apr 28, 2021
    Posts: 40

    Matthew H.

    Great project. In the same boat, have a running chassis with no body yet! Hope to find one soon, or settle on a Brookville if all else fails.
     
  21. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 122

    LostInOC
    Member

    Finally got my Stipe IB 330 cam delivered, that thing is gorgeous! Really wanted the 340 but beggars can't be choosers and I didn't want to wait. Valves are in, lapped and adjusted. Had to backyard engineer and fab a spring compression tool to get the modern valves in with the tapered clamshell keepers. Still waiting on a finned aluminum Thomas head and side cover from Snyders. Last I heard, they just got a supply of fresh heads in. Hoping to have all this buttoned up and running by the end of the month. IMG_3752.jpeg IMG_3754.jpeg IMG_3755.jpeg IMG_3756.jpeg

    The heat gun was to dry the water jacket after flushing with water. The thing just happened to fit snugly in the port opening.
     
    bct, ratrodrodder, Six Ball and 3 others like this.
  22. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 755

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    That 330 will be just fine.Not sure if you would even be able to tell it from a 340.I have a 330 in mine and it rips pretty good but it has plenty of other mods as well.
     
    Six Ball and 41 GMC K-18 like this.
  23. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,707

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Exciting thread... (Had a similar 'mis-fit' with crank/con rod brgs. on an assembly, hung the crank from an old flywheel in the big bench vise, fitted each one individually, like a 356 Porsche operation)
    Turned out the machinist let the young apprentice 'learn' with my con rods at his Sunnen rod machine...
    For a minute, I thought my inside mics were lying!
     
    Six Ball and 41 GMC K-18 like this.
  24. Post a video of when it runs! I've got the same cam in a banger, but havent heard it run yet!
     
    Six Ball likes this.
  25. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 122

    LostInOC
    Member

    I must be cursed. Right after posting this, Snyders called and said it'll be an addition 2-3 months for the head. Dang!

    Question..... Looks more and more like I'll be doing a 30-31 Brookville Roadster body. What's your opinion on gas tank type and location?
     
    Six Ball likes this.
  26. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,278

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    The cam is a thing of beauty! And the spring tool is cool!
     
    Runnin shine and LostInOC like this.
  27. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 122

    LostInOC
    Member

  28. That looks killer! Needs some magnesium! I know where some is for sale if you’re interested

    IMG_3947.JPG
     
  29. ratrodrodder
    Joined: Feb 19, 2008
    Posts: 155

    ratrodrodder
    Member
    from Boston

    Cool build so far - thanks for bringing us all along! And now I've got a new place to check out the next time I visit CO...
     
    LostInOC likes this.

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