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Projects The Build Without (Now With) a Body

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by LostInOC, Jan 27, 2021.

  1. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 179

    LostInOC
    Member

    The most annoying sound...

    New, about to be round filed, fuel pump. Need to find a quiet pump that I can mount under the tank. Any suggestions?
     
  2. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,847

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Just wear earplugs or make the exhaust louder.:rolleyes: Man that thing is loud!
     
    48fordnut likes this.
  3. 48fordnut
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 4,215

    48fordnut
    Member Emeritus

    A rotary one will be quiet. Impulse, like you have is loud.
     
    Six Ball likes this.
  4. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,983

    97
    Member

    The problem , is not the fuel pump , but is the engineering ! Those are designed to be mounted to the chassis, on rubber mounts with a flexible fuel hose in and out . The common place on a Model A is below the passengers floor , in the cavity at the bottom of the firewall and behind the front 1/4 panel. As it is, solid mounted by the fuel lines the tank is acting as a anchor point and the firewall as an amplifier. All three parts will crack with the vibrations after a short time. The pieces of flexible hose can be short , as long as they isolate the vibrations from the pump.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2022
  5. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,885

    rusty valley
    Member

    Agree with that ^^^, but also it should only do that until the float bowl is full, and then a few intermittent and perhaps quieter clicks while its running. have you driven it like this?
     
    chryslerfan55, 48fordnut and Six Ball like this.
  6. Dedsoto
    Joined: Jan 7, 2014
    Posts: 321

    Dedsoto
    Member
    from Australia
    1. Aussie HAMBers

    I've got a Mr Gasket 42S pump on mine, way quieter than that. Mounted pretty much them same, apart from the small sections of hose.
    20220402_104151.jpg
     
    chryslerfan55, LostInOC and 48fordnut like this.
  7. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 179

    LostInOC
    Member

    Welp, went from the motor running great to not so great. On a 20 mile trip, slightly uphill, the motor started to lose power so I pulled over. I was puffing white smoke out of the oil breather and billowing the bluish stuff out of the exhaust. The motor felt pretty warm but not overly hot so I sat there a bit and let things cool down so I could get home. The next day I did a compression and leak down test, everything passed. Took it out again today and experienced the same issue within 10 minutes. After some head scratching and a couple beers I decided to pull the head. Cyl 1 and 4 had evidence of oil (white smoke) while cyl 1 plug was certainly fouled. Cyl 1 and 3 have some rough spots on the cyl wall but no evidence of major failures. Pretty bummed at the moment considering it’s the start of the driving season here. Thinking that I need to get all cyl honed and new rings. While I’m in there, might as well grind the valve seats and install new valves. I’m more interested if finding the failure mode. This was supposed to be the end all bullet proof model A motor. Whisky night it is!!!!

    thoughts? FFC3A882-DF34-432F-8205-936238DB8DA1.jpeg E9839D7B-2C86-43CF-BBFF-52D50A5B7DAE.jpeg D2142A1F-A393-4430-9A80-FB000F9B510C.jpeg 2DA9B5DE-7B34-4A75-B49E-3AF8C6ABBCA7.jpeg 7FCA1FB6-FC80-43D6-A718-FE716F09A9EF.jpeg 28DE13FB-6E83-44CC-948B-FACDEA7E6A12.jpeg
     
    chryslerfan55 and Outback like this.
  8. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,847

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    I don't know what to tell you except DAMN!
     
  9. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,216

    AHotRod
    Member

  10. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,716

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    White smoke is coolant and blue smoke is oil
     
    brEad likes this.
  11. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 3,885

    rusty valley
    Member

    Sorry to hear this. The cylinder that is clean in the head got "washed " with antifreeze
     
    brEad likes this.
  12. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 179

    LostInOC
    Member

    Got it all apart and found my issue. Piston scuffing on 1 and four with a little on 3 (all on one side of each piston). Didn’t think the motor got hot enough as my coolant never got to boiling but that may not be the case. I sure as hell wasn’t pushing too hard. On a side note, there weren’t any signs of a blown head gasket, bad water pump, excessive bearing wear, or debris. The valves look a bit crusty.
    62823648-5128-4A8E-AEA6-B50FD3EB8DD4.jpeg EB7DEB6A-445A-477F-8DCD-67D31D7FBE6D.jpeg 69AF00A3-F646-4A23-A698-00623A1EBA3B.jpeg E1B09938-49F3-4C4A-9C57-C6FC3BAC38DE.jpeg
     
  13. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,847

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Is it all on the same sideline front or back? Could the crank be moving? Pulled to the rear or pushed to the front under load?
     
    Outback likes this.
  14. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 179

    LostInOC
    Member

    Front of one piston, back of another. End play on crank was .007”
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2022
  15. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,847

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    .007" with just the crank , no pistons installed yet. Was the coolant low? Was there coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant? Could too much fuel have washed the oil from the rings & cylinder walls? Did the oil smell like gas? Just thinking and recalling past engine failures.
     
    1oldtimer likes this.
  16. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 179

    LostInOC
    Member

    Dropped the motor off at a reputable engine shop today. Before I start guesstimating, I’m going to wait until I hear from them. At a minimum, I’m looking at re-boring, grinding valve seats, new pistons, new bearings all around, and a crank balance. Fingers crossed that’s all we need to do. On a positive note, got new wheels and tires. 32 18” wheels with new old rubber. E9FBF63A-89D3-41C6-A112-E5CB6CEFA1BE.jpeg
     
  17. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 179

    LostInOC
    Member

    Current state of affairs…

    getting ready for paint.
    C2C29022-53CC-45F0-8E91-CCEDBE2C0205.jpeg
     
  18. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,847

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Never let a crisis go to waste. :rolleyes:
     
    Tim and brEad like this.
  19. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 179

    LostInOC
    Member

    This whole engine debacle sure is good for the rest of the car. After a year of a semi finished seat frame, finally got to fabbing the backrest hinges. Now you can take it both ways, front and back…….

    F9752209-69BB-4EA4-863E-EC0AB22B9BC9.jpeg 4298B723-6103-4FDB-85E8-8FF49DA76F65.jpeg 4B921739-9743-4331-9688-9AA14C74092C.jpeg 1632C217-4E51-4FC4-967E-DFB43FD4EC1A.jpeg
     
  20. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 179

    LostInOC
    Member

    Waging chemical warfare and a pneumatic assault!

    Getting prepped for paint. What are you doing for those impossible to reach rust bits and what undercoating do you all recommend?

    50E2EC6B-78B4-445E-8473-463515DE91E0.jpeg 02BA6BD3-FD3D-401A-BDCF-1C6871D60C79.jpeg 4BE40701-616E-4389-933B-8A4192E1AE01.jpeg 880E56AD-9415-42DF-8514-A7559B2610AE.jpeg BF0B8F66-CE7E-4008-B935-051EC189B89C.jpeg 3263B642-DDA4-421D-9F9C-E8A28A0A7DBB.jpeg
     
  21. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,847

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    I have had good luck with Rust Mort. It is liquid so it gets into small cracks & hard to reach places. You can paint right over it.
     
    iwanaflattie and LostInOC like this.
  22. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,716

    Dick Stevens
    Member

  23. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,265

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    ^^^^^^^^This^^^^^^^
    Needs to be fully neutralized with water and dried quickly to prevent new rust formation.
     
    chryslerfan55 and LostInOC like this.
  24. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 179

    LostInOC
    Member

    Ordered some today, thanks!
     
  25. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 179

    LostInOC
    Member

    Did I ever mention how much I hate painting? 6DCCB541-F78B-4FC4-8679-9BC5AC8A14EE.jpeg
     
  26. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 179

    LostInOC
    Member

  27. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,716

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    I hate prepping for paint, but I love spraying paint and seeing it transform from not so pretty to shiny and beautiful! :D
     
  28. 4bangerbob
    Joined: Jun 29, 2013
    Posts: 139

    4bangerbob
    Member
    from AB, Canada

    Did you hear back from your engine shop? Any feedback on reason for the pistons scoring the bores?

    Interested to know as I received my burtz block.
     
  29. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 3,394

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I am interested too... @4bangerbob just got mine together and have about 150 miles on it. It is a nasty casting and needs lots and of cleaning up prior to assembly. I probably have 30 hours in cleaning, checking tolerances and assembly. All clearances need to be checked and double checked.
     
  30. LostInOC
    Joined: Aug 5, 2009
    Posts: 179

    LostInOC
    Member

    I was running Snyders pistons and Hastings rings. All the numbers checked out when assembling but the engine guy said things were a little tighter than he’d like. Snyders pistons don’t give much room for expansion, so we think that was the issue. Egge pistons are designed to provide more expansion and have thinner rings for less friction/heat. Terry recommends Egge pistons for the engine but they were on back order for many many months when I needed them. I went with Snyders pistons because the tests engine built and ran here in Colorado used them and ran just fine. This time around, Egge .010 pistons are on back order until November so we’re going .020. The engine guy should be done boring, honing, installing new cam bearings, and grinding the valve seats in a week or two. He also recommended boring .001” over to give just that extra bit of room. He’s a well respected builder of flat heads in the Denver area so I’m going with his recommendation. I’ll let you know how it goes.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2022
    Six Ball, rusty valley and winduptoy like this.

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