Projects The bucket of ugly! A de-uglifying thread...

Normally, torque is king on the street. A stroker is great for torque, so they really shine for most vehicles.
Considering a T-bucket often comes in at around 2000 pounds, anything more than 300 HP (equals 6.66 pounds per horse) is either going up in tire smoke, your suspension/tire combo is going to pull the front end or the combo is REALLY tuned to apply this force to forward motion. A T-bucket is almost always going to do the first.
Here is a link to a list of # to HP. Note you are spending over 50K to get into that range...
https://www.autoblog.com/2014/07/02/best-car-power-to-weight-ratios-feature/

Your builder should be able to screw together a SBC with close to one HP per Cu.In. in his sleep.
There are a TON of articles, here is one
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/project-cars/sucp-0910-chevy-350-engine-build/

Since you spend most of the time driving under light throttle, a cam with smaller overlap, ports with good velocity and a good timing curve will make the most responsive and comfortable powerband. The light weight will allow you to accelerate as fast as the chassis can handle.

 

Agreed.
I ended up @ 255hp/276tq with the little 283 (287) power pack. Nothing to brag about, but knowing how well the worn out stocker did pushing it down the road, I know this will be perfectly satisfying in that primitive chassis.

Getting there...dragging my feet

 

Thanks for the likes, guys.
Yes, a t-bucket is a very different animal than a 3000 pound '40s rod.
You are going to be able to measure the amount of time over 4K RPM in a year with a stopwatch unless you have very steep rear gears or a death wish.
You are able to out accelerate almost anything in the other lane with hot 4 cylinder or stock modern V6 power. A V8 is for looks, history, bragging rights and sound.

I'd suggest checking a computer program like desktop dyno and plugging in weight, tire size, final drive ratio and converter slip, then trying various HP curves. I'd bet a mild 327 with properly matched carb size, cam, compression and converter will supply all the power you can handle. Trouble is, the 327s and power pack heads have been sought by racers, restoration guys, and hot rodders since they came out. The balance is develop enough heat to fully power the chassis without making more, which means unavoidable tire smoke, a too big radiator, a trans cooler that takes up the entire footprint of the body and hard hot starts. A 350 with 9:1 compression, under 500 lift cam, 600 CFM carb and an aggressive timing curve, along with a good converter should be plenty.
You need to match up everything so it all works together happily in a light package.
https://tbucketeer.com/threads/useable-power-in-a-t-bucket.16690/
https://tbucketeer.com/threads/torque-converters.13009/
Fred, you are over there too. Those guys will be able to give you t-specific experiences.


FREE for the guy who can't seem to get a break, but is still building a great bucket!
note this is at least 10 years old!
http://www.virtualengine2000.com/products.htm

 

All good info but there is nothing worse than accepting your second choice. When I was building V8 motors for a living I fell in love with the idea of building a 302 SB Chev, so I did and is now in my RPU with a Power Glide trans. I cant spin the rears much due the long rear bones but nearly lifts the fronts in 1st and gets 7-8 seconds in the 1/8 mile . I have thought about building my 327 for the car but that would most likely kill me. Its heavier than a Bucket being all steel but is still only about 1750 lbs. A three speed auto would make it better but i like the 2speed.
Anyway, Fred, if the 383 is what you desire I can see you getting it when the time is right and you should stick with what you intended unless the 350 gives you enough and you are happy with it. JW

 

Fred, hope the day-to-day is going okay. I know looking for work is a slog!
Hope you are able to sit in the T and make Vroom sounds and keep the dream alight.
here's the only local listing under 5 figures - needs some ugly rubbed off!
https://prescott.craigslist.org/cto/d/1923-roadster/6608031025.html

 

Main problem with that one is that there's about $7000 worth of ugly to try to do something with.

 

$7,ooo over here would get you the motor and trans, that would be a very worthy project here to De-ugly. JW

 

Same in sweden.

 

It appears to be in the same small town in which I reside.
It looks like an Edelbrock XC8 Cross Ram, which is old but is not a great intake for the street.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/edelbrock-xc-8-cross-ram-info-needed.654074/
The upright steering column, generator, handmade headers, 1970 CAL plate and overall look seem to indicate a 60s build.
I emailed the seller and hope to hear back. EDIT, he emailed back, I'm going to call and hope to go take a look.

 

Well, I went and looked at it. It's just over a mile away.
Good HAMB friendly (early 60s) bones.
Ford spindles with empty brakes (no cylinders or lines, just backing plates, hub and drum.
5 leaf front spring (very stiff!) Both tires worn on inside, so expect kingpin work needed (see pic for right front).
Was told it's a 283. Stamping looks like F291D, but hard to read.
"F" stands for Flint, couldn't find the 291 part. Seems to be date related.
The "D" suffix crosses over to a '58 or '60 283/Powerglide, and that's what is behind it. An older style PG.
Short shaft to a drop out rear axle. as told it's Chevy too. The bolt pattern is larger than the front, so it seems to be correct. 5x4.5 VS 5x4.75... Looking online, appears to match 50s 10 bolt style.
Holley list 4548-s carbs (one missing parts see pic) cross over to 450 CFM 4160 style on the Offy intake, with oil fill in front and road draft tube at the back. Missing the coil, didn't get dist. numbers. Finned valve covers with winged hold-downs as shown.
Split bones in front, tucked nice and close to the frame, but will probably have bump steer.
nicely done OLD upholstery, rotten and sagging of course.
I would hazard a guess the steering box is VW van, judging from pics I looked at. I felt a casting number on it, but couldn't get under it enough to see it. I could have used a mirror!
Body is not reinforced around the top, plywood angled toe board and floor, appears to be still solid. Dash has flat sections on each side, but is cut out in the middle for gauge clearance under the aluminum plate.
Bolt on bed, tailgate and top (didn't open). Electric fuel pump (small square cheapie) under bed ahead of axle.
Single master cylinder under floor, locked solid all the way up.
E brake handle on outer driver's side floor, works and has spring tension. Did not pull hard.
Gauges are all S&W except one, only one has wings. I'd have to research more for a better idea of vintage. Turn signals in front, dimmer switch on floor. I'd redo the entire wiring though, for safety and reliability.
3 link rear with upper on passenger side.
Coil springs vertical in back, shocks outboard and shown in pics.
Battery under passenger side seat area, flasher, regulator, horn relay under driver's side. Nice 2" riser at front of seat, 'glassed in. Battery top sits only an inch or so above floor.
Good looking frame. Has top snaps around the rear top edge of the body, but seller does not have the top frame.
Radiator appears to be a local shop-built special, from before 1-800 stuff and has a trans cooler. Fiberglass flex-fan is shot.
The seller is looking for cash, not trades, so I've gotta move some stuff to be able to get this. Only a dream at this point unless I can move stuff quickly. I did sit in it Fred, and with thinner upholstery feel like I'd fit fairly well. The steering wheel is right above my knees, but unless I swap the whole thing out it would do.
I'll attach pics from the ad so they don't disappear. Bag on front is just covering the plate holder. No plate (or bag) there when I saw it.
Overall, this is probably exactly the kind of bucket Chip started this thread about. early to mid-60s stripped down basic bucket. It's even Orange with a Black interior and white homemade headers! Aside from the wheel/tire combo which is obviously later, it doesn't have Brass, slicks, Discs, Billet or extra add-ons. Heck, it has very little chrome (windshield parts, headlight rings, Ford script on bed). The rest is painted or aluminum.
I hope Chip or someone else who might be able to ID the body/frame takes a look at the pics. It may be home built, but it was done pretty nicely. Wonder if it's an early kit.
EDIT: Just tracked down Chip's phone # on FB and called him. He sounded interested in viewing this post and said he would look later. He also mentioned that he can't log in here any more. I hope a mod can reach out and get him logged back on. I miss his input on this thread and many others.

 

What a report, sounds like a good project for sure. Good luck if you do go after it. JW

 

^^^^
THIS

 

That's cool. Hope you do get it. And start a build thread. Keep us updated. Bob........

 

Looks like a good candidate to me!

 

Well, two steps forward, one step back. I got my body back from the body shop where they sprayed it with tinted epoxy primer. Unfortunately, the paint store and I apparently have differing ideas about what constitutes "light blue".

It's turquoise.




If I look at it long enough, I can convince myself that I kind of like it and can live with it. But if I leave the garage and come back, I have to start the process all over again. The good parts? It's all one color, it's primed, and technically I could probably hit it with some 600 grit and just get it painted. The bad part is I have no idea what color to paint it. That's why I went with tinted primer. What goes with a black frame and orange motor? Black, red, orange?

 

All of them; black with red and orange flames; well maybe a little white and yellow to get the flames spreading.

 

Not happening for me, hope someone gets it who understands history and restores it nicely.

 

That orange bucket is a neat car. Unfortunately, it looks like everything on it needs to be gone through. It would be hard for me to spend that amount and have to immediately blow it apart and go through it piece by piece. The right car will turn up.

 

I actually like it , if I changed anything it would be the engine color but it all works now too


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Looks like light blue to me! And it works with the black frame and orange engine just fine

 

Since it's "only" tinted primer, now is the time to try any graphics you are considering. Scallops, flames, race car numbers, etc. Please forgive the following non-traditional rides, they are only examples of the paint graphics suggested!!!
You can post in the photoshop thread and get solid color suggestions too.








P.S. Since you list MN as location, It would look great in Black. Not so much in Phoenix! Just means one extra round of blocking that primer!

 

The pictures I posted look blue. I tried my best to capture the turquoise glory, but to no avail. My wife helped me unload the body and put it on the frame. When she saw it, she started laughing. She didn't even have the good grace to wait until she went back into the house.

 

Skip graphics! Solid color only......please.

 

I always thought the color you had on the body before was the finished color and I have to say I liked it. JW

 

Digital cameras hate turqouise. Either its look blue or green.
And what color should you paint it?
Hard to give a advise couse all people have different tastes.
If you not sure what color to use give it some time and live with what it have.
What i would do is to google T-bucket and just look on colorcombinations to see what i like and not.
Everything is exposed on this type of car so you need to have an idea about the all concept before paint.

 

@nobux Tell me what color you would like to see ,gloss ,satin,graphics or whatever else and I'll give you an idea of how it might look.

 

Hey, thanks man! Could you Photoshop one in gloss black and one in red?

 

Nope, it was just the gel coat.

 

Gloss black body and wheels.....orange engine for the win.

 

Here ya go....