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Projects The bucket of ugly! A de-uglifying thread...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by need louvers ?, Aug 14, 2013.

  1. BuiltFerComfort
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,620

    BuiltFerComfort
    Member

    Bench seat, smaller shifter on floor or column shift. Sliding across from passenger side is not bad once you get used to it. And it’s traditional, just like Henry Ford designed it.
     
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  2. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 2,752

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    I don't think you will regret that decision! As we get older we just don't bend like we did when young.
     
  3. Im so glad my 26 has doors as my knees aren't what they used to be.:( JW
     
  4. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,331

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Me too, my 26 body has drivers and passenger doors, at my age no way could I have it any other way. :D
     
  5. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,796

    tfeverfred
    Member

    Okay.... is this OCD or AADD or what? I got home an hour ago from running errands and was looking at my chassis. I do that a LOT. Well, the rear end didn't look square in the chassis. I thought it could just be an optical illusion... or is it really off? Crap! Next thing I know, I've got the tape measure out. It was off. 1/4" on the passenger side. I had the center of the transmission cross bar as a point of reference and went from the bleeder on the drums. So, some adjusting of the radius rods got it even on both sides. Perfect.

    But that made me question the front axle assembly. So, I measured and it was 1/8" off on the drivers side. Still using the transmission cross bar and the top of the king pins, as my points of reference. A bit of adjusting and got it perfect. So, were a 1/4" in the rear and 1/8" in the front a big deal or am I sick puppy?:confused:

    No more discussion of interiors on this thread. From now on they'll be in the interiors thread. So.... what the heck are the rest of you working on?!!
     
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  6. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,331

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    You know what they say Fred, measure 3 times and cut once.
    Since you aren't cutting, I say measure again and again, and then adjust and measure some more and look at it until you are sure it's right.
    It's called attention to detail :D
     
  7. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,796

    tfeverfred
    Member

    Whew..... thanks. I'll cancel that appointment with the "head" doctor.;)
     
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  8. t-rod
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 423

    t-rod
    Member

    I got the hood mounted on my car kinda quick and dirty to make it to World of Speed, now I'm refining it and prepping it for paint.

    Bad decisions make good stories.
     
  9. The axles being out of phase would have been an issue Fred, good spotting. JW
     
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  10. Working on this part now. Doesn't need a lot done. JW
    [​IMG]
     
  11. shivasdad
    Joined: May 27, 2007
    Posts: 544

    shivasdad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Texas

    I hope you verified that the cross member was square with the frame before it as your reference point. Not trying to mess with your OCD, just playing devil's advocate.
     
  12. Blownfuel
    Joined: Jun 16, 2005
    Posts: 1,268

    Blownfuel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Pulled the polished aluminum 1 wire alt. off the T because it was getting harder and harder to get it to start charging (Imagine that, a one wire alt. that doesn't work right!). I had a chrome one wire alt. that came off the car at some point (it had overspray on it that matched the frame on the car). I figured since the previous owner replaced it, it probably didn't work either. I ordered a one wire conversion kit from Summit to rebuild it with. Not my first alt. rebuild, so I was surprised when the kit came and it didn't have (or even mention) the internal jumper to excite the alt. There is a piece that MIGHT be the jumper on the exploded drawing in the instructions, but it isn't one of the parts shown as being part of the kit. I called them, and of course tech support didn't know crap about rebuilding an alt. (He referenced me to someone else's one wire conversion kit's instructions, that turned out to just be a trouble shooting guide, and suggested I send it back and purchase a more expensive kit to see if it would work for me. I went ahead and put the kit in (figuring if it doesn't work as a one wire, it will as a three wire (was already thinking about converting back, for all the reasons one wire alts suck). Took it to O'Reilly's to heck and see if it charges or not, and of course, they have NO idea how to hook one up to their tester (it's one wire!) even though they do sell a one wire alt). But they do hook it up a a three wire and say it charges like a champ, so instead of trying to convince them I know what I'm talking about, I just take it home and figure I'll put it on the car in one wire configuration and see if it works. I go to put it on, and it will NOT fit in the bracket the other one came out of! I know this alt. has been on this car before, and their both 10's alternators, so the only thing I can come up with is my buddy may have built this bracket (he owns an Aircraft Machine Shop), and made to the exact measurement of the polished alt. (Polishing removes a few mils, and chromium adds a few, and it ain't off by much, you could almost force it in there, but I'm not gonna. One way or another, it would bite me in the ass! So this weekend, I'm gonna pull the bracket off and clearance it to fit. This probably sounds like a rant, but (other than the conversion kit possibly not being a one wire alt. kit), it's really not because I fully expected everything else that happened (with the exception of it not fitting the bracket, still kind of scratching my head on that one). More to follow this weekend, if I don't have to work.

    Sent from my SM-S902L using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  13. Blownfuel
    Joined: Jun 16, 2005
    Posts: 1,268

    Blownfuel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Last edited: Oct 5, 2017
  14. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,796

    tfeverfred
    Member

    I took my measurement from the middle of the cross member, so even if it isn't straight (it is), the middle is a good reference point.
     
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  15. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,796

    tfeverfred
    Member

    NICE! So...... is blue the new flat black?;)
     
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  16. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,796

    tfeverfred
    Member

    Damn. I'm tired now.
     
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  17. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,238

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    It's really worth going to the trouble of running the full wiring setup if you do much night driving etc though.
    Mine was always at 12.6v at night, and although I never once had a problem with starting, it still bothered me to see it so low.
    I ended up moving the alt to the other side of the engine to delete an idler pully and used a smaller CS130 model for clearance. This one I hooked up properly.
    Now the darn thing pumps out over 14v at night and the regular lights are almost like I'm on high beam!

    VERY pleased with how things worked out with just a simple bit of extra wiring.
     
  18. shivasdad
    Joined: May 27, 2007
    Posts: 544

    shivasdad
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Texas

    Cool. I was thinking more straightline measurements on the sides of the rails. OCD is not always a bad thing. I'm enjoying following along on this thread and your interiors thread as well. Carry on sir.
     
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  19. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,796

    tfeverfred
    Member

    No worries, man. Opinions and advice like that keep me honest. The left and right side measurements, center of rear axle to center of king pins (wheel base), are 98 7/8", respectively. Left and right king pin to center of trans mount are 72 13/16". Rear axle from left and right axle center to center of trans mount, are 38 7/8". My tolerance is +/- 1/32"
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2017
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  20. The blue was on it when I got it, I don't like it that much but if I change it that may just start a whole new bunch of work I don't wont to do yet. JW
     
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  21. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 2,752

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    I assume you made certain that the measurement point on the rear axle is equal distance from the frame on both sides! If the rear end is off center that will throw the alignment off. OCD isn't necessarily a bad thing, especially when building a hot rod!
     
  22. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,796

    tfeverfred
    Member

    Yup. 10 1/4". Guys....... I got this. I thought I had it right a while back, but it's right, this time. Seriously. Done and done.
     
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  23. patman
    Joined: Apr 30, 2007
    Posts: 546

    patman
    Member

    You gotta hurry up and get some new car parts soon to occupy yourself with before you wear out the ones you've got by playing with them so much!!!

    :)
     
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  24. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,796

    tfeverfred
    Member

    I know........:(
     
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  25. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 2,264

    RodStRace
    Member

    So Fred, you mentioned talking to your engine guy and saving for the body.
    From this and the interior thread, the body is in progress. So the question is, SBC?
    What are your plans for the details on it? Induction, ignition, tin, exhaust?
    Go for a 1965 era fresh stock pullout?
    [​IMG]
    Dual quad "'Vette" stocker?
    [​IMG]
    period speed parts triple duece and valve covers?
    [​IMG]
    All Black?
    [​IMG]
    After the length of this thread, I KNOW you won't be going "over the top"!
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2017
  26. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,796

    tfeverfred
    Member

    Gee, I thought I covered this earlier.:confused: Let's see.... originally I had plans (dreams) of a BBC. My engine guys dad (ex-racer) had a #'s verified 396 out of a Vette. Sadly, his dad knew the value and I had to pass. Then, my engine guy, who's a HP maniac, kinda talked me into a 450+ HP SBC. I said, "Sure." But changed my build theme from "Salt Flat racer" to street friendly cruiser and said, "No." He shook his head and finally agreed with what I had in mind. As of now, he's building a mild stroker SBC. It's based on a build HRM featured a few years back.

    http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0202phr-377ci09/

    About 377 ci, but GREAT torque numbers. It should peak out at around 5,500 RPM's. The last time I dropped some coin on it, he gave me suggestions for the intake and carb. For that, I'm going with an Edelbrock Performer EPS. From Edelbrock:

    "Dual-plane Edelbrock Performer EPS intake manifolds deliver dyno-proven horsepower gains from idle to 5,500 rpm, when used with Edelbrock's Performer series square bore or Thunder series AVS carburetors. Dyno tests showed an extra 5 hp and 9 ft.-lbs. over their own Performer manifolds. The secret is in the runner design, which is tuned to produce substantial torque increases in the 3,000-4,500 rpm range--with peak torque at 3,500 rpm. That's power where you need it the most!"

    I don't have the crank, cam or stroke numbers and really, all the numbers don't even mean anything to me. This guy is an AWESOME fabricator, (he doesn't believe in filler), but he'll build an engine for friends, etc. His dad was a racer/engine builder "back when" and taught him everything. His reputation is flawless. I told him what I expected and he's guaranteed to deliver. And "Yes", this engine will be ALL black.;) "Black Dahlia".

    When I'm done shoveling coins towards the body, I'll be shoveling coins to him with a smile a mile wide. He built my last engine, too.

    And speaking of the body..... the fat lady finished lunch and is headed down my street!;)
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2017
  27. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 2,264

    RodStRace
    Member

    Glad to hear it!
    IMHO, All Black will work better than a bright Chevy Orange lump in the middle of an all Black T.
    I saw these while looking for the engine pics. They are tall in case your guy is using upgraded rockers...
    http://tinyurl.com/y9qwyk8f
    A bit too 'modern' for my taste, but they are without lettering and fairly subdued.
    Although if you plan on any pinstriping or other paint details it might be better to carry this from the body to plain valve covers and air cleaner.
    This would well on older stock covers too.
    http://tinyurl.com/ya6yyefw or http://tinyurl.com/yazv7agj

    Just don't go this way, it will end up your new nickname!
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2017
  28. t-rod
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 423

    t-rod
    Member

    Black hides the oil leaks.

    Bad decisions make good stories.
     
  29. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 2,264

    RodStRace
    Member

    What does Copper hide?
    [​IMG]
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  30. t-rod
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 423

    t-rod
    Member

    Not nearly enough.

    Bad decisions make good stories.
     

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