Projects The bucket of ugly! A de-uglifying thread...

lookin good Fred you'll be back on the road before you know it

 

Well, I got bored and swapped in the Zinc coated spacers. They actually look good, but only time will tell how long the coating will last. At a few bucks each, if the coating wears, I'll just get a couple more. In my scattered mind, the look is worth it.

On a side note, I should be able to get the beauty rings for my wheels next week.

 

The earliest photo of the KOOKIE KAR I have ever seen.

 

WOW!

 

Everything on that link is cad. plated. It will last a while. Then dull. If you want some bling for small bucks just drill some chrome lugs for the spacers and get some stainless steel fasteners and polish them. I've been upgrading a lot of the stuff on my roadster with SS.

My Bling drawer.

 

Well, the package said Zinc plated, either way, they'll be fine. Thanks.

 

Or you could just paint them black.

 

Your right Fred the spacer is zinc plated. If you keep wax on it it will last a while. But the wax might darken it. Still who cares.
Gary

 

The spacers will probably be just fine; but I would be leery of the unknown qualities of the material they made from. That is a pretty highly stressed application; I would make those spacers out a chunk of DOM tube, the same diameter as the eye on the steering arm for full support and also add washers on either side of the heim joint to capture the end in case the ball or bearing failed. Not a real fan of a spacers on steering arms like that; but recently was stuck using one to make one of those stupid Unisteer cross steer racks on a friend's '33 fit.

 

I have a friend who has had heim joints in the steering of his T for a very long time.

Safety washers are a must, if you search for them you will find that they make specific special washers for that purpose.

Another thing that will extend the heim joints life is to use seals on them.
Speedway motors sells them for a reasonable price.

My buddy uses both safety washers and seals.

I was going to use heims on my T but decided instead that I felt better about using proper steering tie rod ends.

 

They're DOM steel 1/8" wall and the ID is 5/8", same as the steering arm eyelet.

 

Someone on the "Tbucketeers" website suggested these:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3068
I'm going to order four in the 5/8" ID size. They're 1.432" diameter, which should cover the whole face of the rod end.

 

Got an early day off work. Came to realize that with the chassis mostly done, I'll be concentrating on the big ticket items. I'll get random bits & pieces, when the addiction kicks in. Engine, transmission and body. The guy building my engine was glad to hear that and will soon be getting back to it, when I "grease his wheel", next month. I've been checking Craigslist for transmissions. 350 th's are hard to come by here, so I'm planning on a new B&M unit. Funny, the cost here to rebuild a 350 th core is more than a new B&M trans.

As for the body..... save....save...save. I'm dead set on CCR's body. But I'll have to skimp and save for it. With any luck, I'll have it by late December. LUCK. I've been kinda lucky, so far. This build has, for the most part, gone as planned. A bit off my schedule, but still as planned. I changed my theme for this build a couple weeks ago and I'm going to stick with it. No fake Salt Flat's car, just a really nice cruiser. The wheels and center caps turned out great and that's what kinda prompted the change in style/theme..

There are still a few brackets I'll need from CCR and I'll be getting those as I can. Motor mounts and the transmission carriage should be about it. The head lights on the chassis now are just to get an idea of grill shell placement and profile. I plan on a set of Guide 682-C style lights. In black, of course. I like the look and the turn signal is already mounted. I didn't want turn signals that look like an after thought. These lights will take care of that.

I started this build January 21, 2016, so I'm a year and a half in. Doesn't seem that long. Am I happy with it? Yes. Have I stayed in budget? So far. I've tripped over my own two feet a couple times, but for the most part, I've stayed on track. With a little luck, I'll be driving her this time next year. But hell, who can truly predict the future.

I didn't mention this before, but I will now. My Mom passed away last month. She was always supportive in the things I did and she was genuinely glad to hear updates on my car. I'm over her passing, but it's enhanced my resolve to finish this build the best I can. I miss her, but I think she's leaning over my shoulder, when I'm at work and playing with my car.

Well, that's my year and a half reflection on this stuff. Thanks.

 

For transmissions, check RV area of Craigslist. There are often low mile RV vans fairly cheap.

 

My condolences on the loss of your Mother, Fred. You are doing good on your build IMO and everyone stumbles when building a hot rod, at least I have! I have a TH350 in the garage I would give you if you were a little closer or have a way to get it picked up.

 

Thanks for the offer. I've got feelers out, so maybe one of them will come through. Probably when I have the funds for a new one. That's how fate usually works for me. Thanks.

 

On the other hand those "good" used TH-350 sometimes don't survive the first test drive.

But; a few hours later, another one out of the shed worked good.

 

Sorry for the loss of your mother Fred. As I said before I think you are on track for a nice driver. Black on black on black with a smattering of chrome, polished aluminum and stainless and beauty rings. What 'The Black Dalia". I like it.

I know, I know, I know I don't have to mention it again BUT it is hard to get your grill too low but one inch too high and it looks like hell.

Your friend Gary, Driver of the Kandy Kolored Klown. Just my luck I find what I think is the perfect name for my roadster and lOck what the initials are. FUCK!!!!!!

 

Ok just to throw a curve ball, I have been setting up a front axle (37-46) with hairpins on cast batwings. Now here's the question, for the best look should the hairpins (1) lay parallel to the chassis, (2)point down at the rear or (3)up at the rear. I've been unsuccessful trying to find photos that give a clear indication. On my roadster they point down.
the difference will be where they anchor on the chassis.

P7210088 by k1w1rodder posted Jul 21, 2014 at 11:21 AM

 

Just my opinion; hairpins and regular split 'bones should run parallel to ground or slightly up-hill to the frame; a noticeable down-hill slant to the frame looks "broken". (sorry k1w1)

 

Sorry for the loss of your mother Fred.

 

Mine are slightly down. I think yours look fine.

 

Thanks for the sentiments, guys.

Just ordered the safety washers from Pegasus. Should hopefully be here by the weekend. I'm going to check on the beauty rings Wednesday. Seems O'Reilly's has chrome ones for $12 each. I'll check them out and give my review.

Speedway's are $25 each and I used them before. Stainless steel and always looked good.

 

That's a nice T, Rich! Is that yours?

That's the thing about buying used transmissions. You don't really know if they're good, until you install them. On my old T, I bought one, installed it and it was a dud. Cost $700 to have it rebuilt. I wish I could remember that places address. Sadly, the receipt and address are long gone.

 

Honestly, I've seen them go different ways. It seems it depends on mounting positions and where the mounts are located. On my last T, I think they were slightly down. I'd say, as long as nothings in a bind, go for it.

 

For me its look best if the anchor is just under the frame or in the lower half on the framerail.
And then the angle depends how the frontend is setted up.
My build got them pointed up couse i didnt want my anchors hanging low from the frame.

 

On their way. Should be here Friday or Saturday. Beveled on the inside to cover the ball of the rod end. 0.270 thick. 1.432 in diameter.

 

Exactly what I ordered from the same place.
I've got 4 in the drawer in my garage.
Since I'm not using heim ends I have a plan to use them for retaining washers on my coil overs.

 

Sorry for your loss, Fred.
Glad to hear you are getting the washers. I used to have an OT vintage sports car with heim joints in the rear suspension. It never caused issues, but was noisy and that sound was a constant reminder of a non-stock part that would be a catastrophic failure.
As for the mounting points, I would try to keep them parallel to the frame or 'up' at the frame mount so there is less hanging down for speed bumps to grab.
More like Rich Bs than that early photo of the kookie car. Yeah, that's blasphemy, but that mount hangs down quite a lot from the frame. Guess the oil pan hangs down too.
Another angle. Don't know if this is the original, a clone or just a similar build.