Projects The bucket of ugly! A de-uglifying thread...

Style and class. JW

 

That's what I'm going for.

 

Yes, the " Blood Shot " T Roadster is a good one. I still think of " Vandal " and " TnT " as true historic T Roadsters but I don't have photos of either of them sadly.

 

Vandal is now owned by an old friend and is a Dodge.
Marc, you may remember this early T built by Russ Clarke with Berry and Chung wheel centres. I was given that photo by another old friend who bought it off Russ. JW

 

And so is TnT a Dodge but I believe they have always been referred too as buckets or Roadsters. Cool cars whichever way you want to call them though and me being from the deep south, well TnT would come out ahead of Vandal in my book just to stir it up.

 

No. I don't remember that T Roadster Jeremy but looked good. Is it still alive somewhere ? I found two photos of " TnT " for the guys.

 

And the next one....

 

I must agree with you Marc that TnT is the nicer one, that has a nice grace of line. I must ad for our USA lads that back in the sixties and early seventies most of the NZ Buckets and Rods in general ran Y Blocks. JW

 

Found these in some old magazines.....

Sent from my QTAQZ3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Yes, we certainly didn't have the pleasure of 0800 Quote the Visa Number back then so most of the inlet manifolds were handcrafted at home and played with until they got it right. And now a fully dress Y Block would be a real treasure here in NZ aye Jeremy.

 

Now Jeremy, you will have to fill in the details of the new owner that has restored both of these early New Zealand Hot Rods.

 

My old friend Terry Caske from Palmerston North. ''Vandel''Bucket built by John Reid and my favourite T Pick Up built by the late Royce Fisher. I saw the PU at a swap meet back in the 70's when it had a flat bed, that's how I liked it best. Terry and family have done a great job on them both. Thanks for posting that Marc. JW

 

,Had this 27 -T in the early 80's did some trading on it but he wanted $2,500 extra with the 427 Ford, drove it for awhile that way but couldn't come up with the cash so had to give back the motor then put in a 390....Car was built by two high school guys in Everett WA. in 1974 one of them got in touch with me awhile back and give me the history on the car....Cool story...Stealbody , shortened old dragster frame , the 427 was built by Holman and Moody, he is currently trying to locate the car or any parts of it.... I sold it to a friend in 83 or 84 he resold it and it went to Portland Oregon then my brother saw it for sale in Aloha Oregon around 1997 .....Then it was gone....

Sent from my QTAQZ3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Cool car and story but how did you fit in it with most of the cowl cut off and a faily deep channel? Must have gone like a rocket ship! JW

 

It wasn't too bad the column was laid back a little,in town driving was kind of a bitch, I usually used my hand to step on the brake pedal open road was better you could kind of kick back a little....Car was alot of fun l drove the hell out of it ,to and from work weekdays then hit Commerce av. in Longview WA. Cruzin and racing out on industrial way the nights usually end by getting stopped and told to take it back over the bridge home (Oregon) sometimes I even got a police escort to the bridge....They didn't like it when I would end the night by hammering on it hard and getting it slidewaaaaayyyyssss with one of the front tires headed skyward on the last turn exiting the Blvd and open headers......Life was good then.....

Sent from my QTAQZ3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Well, I TOLD you guys I would add updates as I did something else to the 'Bucket! Truth be told, for the last year I have done nothing be drive the "T", literally. Load Panda in about 5-6 pm, head to the dog park, and back home at the minimum. Been great for that.

Today, I had to take some time and complete something that has needed to happen for quite some time... I put my 12" Bendix brakes and Buick drums on! I have to do a few things like re-route the brake lines and brake line tabs, but I'll finish that up this weekend.

From this:


To this:


Eventually, when i get my big lathe going, I am going to spend some quality time and gnaw about 3/8" off the inside of the drums, and narrow them up a bit, as they look a bit chunky to my eyes.

My new phone's camera still hasn't captured my complete love and affection, as it makes stuff go a little fish eye sometimes, as it has here, but I assure you, this looks pretty damned good. The phone somehow makes my 155s look like 235 on the front! Argh....

 

I also have another T-bucket frame going together for Chris here in town. This is gonna be a long term deal for him, gathering parts as he goes along.



I do a heavy "V" before I weld, to get max penetration, and minimal weld build up.


Tomorrow it goes up on the frame table and gets it's cross members and goes home to start it's journey.

 

Wow nice shit Chip.
Everybody, it is worth the time to get the look. Larry Blue One decided to was worth it and his T is better for it. Fred not right now but in the future make the effort.

Gary

 

I'm thinking you need my set 0f 50 Merc rims to get the correct look..

 

Looks good, Chip! I had a couple of sets of those drums a few years ago, but like a dumbass, I let them go. My T got kicked out of the shop temporarily (got three engine builds going on, and needed the room), so the only attent I need it's got lately is the battery charged. It's been raining cats and dogs around here, so not to pleasant out in the carport. On another note, at the same time I was putting the battery charger on the T, I decided to fire up the Plymouth and charge that battery too. When I put the key in the ignition, I noticed it was a little loose, so I grabbed the bezel and hand tightened it. The entire lock cylinder fell off in my hand, it broke off the switch body. Anybody have a suggestion for a decent dash mounted ignition switch. The cheap universal auto parts store ones are just that, CHEAP! I need about 3/4" to 1" of reach to go through the wood dash, so that's been a limiting factor as well.

Sent from my SM-S902L using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

It'll probably happen sooner or later, Gary. That looks great, Chip!

 

Head out to an electrical or truck supply place and dig through the Cole Hersey book. The are a bit more expensive, but you find something that won't come apart every year.

 

That is actually something io am considering pretty hard at the moment for my car. I LOVE the look of unreversed steels and Merc caps, and an easy way to get it these days is a typical 60s-'70s Ford pattern steel wheel with the repro caps to fit the later stuff.

I've held a gennie '50 Merc cap next to a repro 10 1/8" merc cap, and the difference is very little...

 

The ones I have are stock width fronts and Merc centers in reversed Buick rims for the rear.

 

Very KOOL and would look great on Chips ride ALA IVO.

I'll get those drums on your car sooner or later Fred. You should get Chips old ones and paint them black and chrome the nut.

Just another thought from the evil mind of the REBEL.

GARY

 

Loving the progress and updating........cool!!! JW

 

Well, guys, my build is stuck. I need a pair of rear coil over shocks. I figure with a 165-180 spring rate. At present, I can't afford "new". Cut down of hours at work. I'm looking for something I can mount and probably later, when things get back to normal, upgrade.

I'm trying to get to roller stage, but these shocks are like a tree in the road. So, does anyone have a pair with 5/8" eyelets on the bottom? I'm not looking for a freebie. I'll pay what you feel they are worth.

On a side note, since I'm at an impasse, I have planned out my brake system and will be using Nicopp lines.

 

Too be roller,you can just place a spacer tube of the hight your looking for shock/spring combo to be.just flat the ends an drill,will hold frame up tell ya got what ya want. Not pretty but hay,keeps ya going along. These were temp for my son's,tell we got the chrome jobs

 

I got new rolling stock for my RPU. The 15" solid smoothies and radial T/A tires are gone as are the 15" American Racing Salt Flats.
I now have 16x4.5 WV 14 series Gennie wheels for the front and 16x6 for the rear.
Front tires are Excelsior Stahl radials 5.00 x16 and the rears are 7.00 x16 Excelsiors.
Caps are 41 Ford and I have rings if I choose to run them.
Larry