Has anybody tried "BLUEING" a dash? I have seen the "SMOKE" look and i like it but a friend of mine was telling me about "BLUEING". Something to do with making guns look new again and he said that i could probably do my dash that way.... What do you guys say?
You can get cold blueing kits from Brownells and other shooting supply houses, but the best results come from a hot blueing process that's somewhat similar to the process for black oxide. Either way, I doubt you'd want it on your dash since you have to keep it oiled or it'll rust just about as quick as bare metal.
Like metlmunchr said, not much protection. You might be able to clear it but don't know if the effect would be that good.
The cold bluing chemicals are easy, but not very durable. Most gun "bluing" is hot alkaline black oxide. Hydroxide and nitrate salts are mixed in water to a concentration that boils at 300°F. This leaves a hard black coating as shiny as the base metal was prepped to. Most military guns are phosphated, which leaves a dark flat gray/black crystalline coating that holds oil very well. An old fashioned method is rust bluing. Swab with a mild acid like vinegar or phosphoric. Let a light film of rust form for a day or two, you don't want pits. Heat until rust turns black. Scuff loose rust off and repeat until black enough. You could also heat the steel to 550-590°F and get a blue oxide layer. All these finishes do not protect against rust, and will need to be oiled.
I've used the cold "blueing" chemicals, on suspension components. Looked real cool, but is prone to rusting. OK on a race car, not for anything on the street.
I can just see it now, if he heats the dash to 570 degrees it will warp because he won't be able to heat the whole dash uniformly, and it will probably change the window opening and might mess up the A pillars... Plus blueing will be very shiny and likely blind you while your driving...
Cold Blueing will last if you keep it oiled. I have my first Winchester single shot .22 that I got for Christmas of '57. My dad cold blued it in about '60 after putting a Lyman Peep on it. It looks as good today as it did then. Just not as black as hot blue. I have done the cold blue on a shifter lever, and it held up but I think a dash would be impractical.
is your dash still painted? if so remove the paint with a wire wheel (either on a drill or angle grinder)... this way the metal isn't squeeky clean, removing the paint this way will leave the metal looking pretty seasoned- -look into JAX steel Patina... apply it with or with out heat(you can use a heat lamp).... accent it with steel wool, than put a heat lamp back on it.. when the metal gets warm to the touch wipe it down with butchers wax(it's what they use on a bowling ally).. do this a few times, let it cool down than hit it with a buffing wheel to shine it up... it may still rust through.. if it does hit it with more wax..and buff- i used this technique on a set of 16x4 steelies.... i really like the way they came out... but the car is not done yet and has not seen any weather... so who knows how long they will last... nothing more butchers wax wont cure!
I have cleared coated bare metal before for projects for friends that are kept inside as "art" it actually blued the bare steel. Also Extends made by Loctite is a rust inhibitor and has a blueing effect. I did chassis parts on my coupe and it held up for awhile, but recently I have found it to start to rust after being wet from exposure.-Weeks
I can smell a cold-blued gun from a mile away... I'll bet that smell would leech out and build up inside the car..... It's not a pleasant odor.... You could cold-blue the dash and spray it with a flattened clear to dull it a bit and prevent rust..... It might seal in that pickled turd odor as well.... Brownell's Oxpho-Blue is supposed to be a good cold-blue.... I'm not a fan of that Birchwood-Casey stuff, but it works ok on smaller parts if you pre-heat with a lighter or propane torch.... They sell it everywhere, (even the major 'super-stores' with all the Chinese crap.. You know which one I mean...) which is a bonus..... Metal prep is key... You want it bare and completely oil free... Wipe it down with mineral spirits or something similar.... After applying the cold blue to the color you want,, some water will stop the reaction and some oil will help protect it... Let it sit for a few days to 'cure', then de-grease and clearcoat..... And post pictures of the finished result.....
Never did something as big as a dash but have done lots of nuts and bolts and other ass't small parts. Biggest problem I see with a dash is getting a uniform blackening (blueing) unless you can dip the whole dash. If you choose to do it, gun blueing is generally available at your nearest WALMART.
why not use a Kolor coat (whatever they call it - you know a translucent top coat) blue on fresh steel?
How about trying a paint / candy finish to simulate the bluing? I've tried several times to simulate that faded black lacquer finish you used see on older cars that were never waxed - where it takes on that purple / blue haze in in the highlights - but on a model car instead. But I've never quite got it right. I'd be interested to know if anyone has tried that approach with good results. Gary
Find a nice sapphire blue candy color from HOK or your favorite paint brand, then clear it, it will have the same effect and be as durable as any painted finish.
I've phosphated some carb bases before (parkerized, named for the man who conjured it up). I don't remember the amounts off hand, but degreased steel wool needs to be dissolved in boiling phosphoric acid. Then manganese dioxide is added (available at pottery supply houses). Stabilize the temp at 190* and add your steel/iron part. Cook for 20 minutes. Pull it out and add some WD40 or, as I used, beeswax melted in warm motor oil. I brushed this on with a nylon toothbrush, then wiped off the excess. Once done it is not oily or slimy. I have some bases I did 4-5 years ago that still look good. I got this from a site dedicated to the parkerizing of gun parts.
My father was a gunsmith and had a blueing room...all I know is he wouldnt let us near the place and he looked weird with all the safety gear he would wear doing the process. (this is the same guy who would stick weld in tshirts with no helmet). Maybe its changed, but when I hear the term i make an eek face. Volvo had a color in the early 90s that was very similar to this. I used to call it gun metal gray, the dealership called it gray, and a cop that disagreed with the registration one day called it blue!
Miller and Bugatti race cars used blueing on chassis parts, looks real nice but the upkeep takes a lot of time and oil.
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