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Projects Th350 doesn't work after shift kit install

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by model A hooligan, Aug 21, 2015.

  1. So I have been driving my car for about 6 years,took it apart for a rebuild and at the same time I did a b&m shift improver kit.followed the crappy instructions and now that it's time to drive...I have no gears.nothing. the gear selector works,but it just will not do anything.yes its full of there anything I could of done wrong? The fluid was pretty bad prior.but it didn't slip at all,so I don't think that the new fluid ruined it (I know a flush can ruin a old trans)
  2. Drop any check ball's on the floor? Was the trans in the car,or on the bench when you did this?
  3. infamous1
    Joined: Jul 18, 2012
    Posts: 5

    from NC

    Check the S link. I have seen a few issues with getting those in correctly when putting the valve body back up.

    Sent from my Z750C using Tapatalk
    primeisnotacrime likes this.
  4. speedfreak1970
    Joined: Aug 21, 2015
    Posts: 2


    Are you saying you rebuilt it and at the same time installed a shift kit?
    If so it could be almost anything from a cut/missing seal to a broken/missing sealing ring

  5. Yep, check the S linkage to make sure its still connected to the gear selector valve. The detents will still work but if the linkage isn't attached to the valve, the trans won't route the fluid to the proper channels.
  6. blue 49
    Joined: Dec 24, 2006
    Posts: 1,300

    blue 49
    from Iowa

    ........and don't miss tightening the valve body bolt above the S-link.
  7. Its not rebuilt,I just did a shift far as the balls,I took the ones out that b&m says and put back the ones it said to.

    S link seemed to be correct but I'll drop the pan and look again
  8. bcumbie
    Joined: Jan 2, 2009
    Posts: 38

    from East Texas

    Did you have the trans off the engine block? If so are you sure you didn't jam the pump? (converter not being all the way engaged into the pump gears) One way to check this is to check fluid level with car not running, record the fluid level. Crank car up and check fluid level with it idling, the fluid should and will suck down on the stick if the pump is working correctly.
  9. Yes I did have it off to drain the converter. How can you Jam the pump?

    it seems Luke the fluid level stays the same weather it's running or not.also only put in 5-6 quarts. And it says full but that's low right?
  10. I did spin it while turning the converter and it clicked in.
  11. potshot
    Joined: Jul 15, 2005
    Posts: 67

    from MT

    pull a cooler line and start the engine, if there is no fluid pumping out, you ruined your pump.
    LWEL9226 likes this.
  12. So I don't want to admit it,but it was a stupid mistake ALTHOUGH it has ended up being a I for some reason thought my buddy had tightened the torque converter bolts.well they was not,only to find out the converter will not slide up to the flex plate. The plate is on correctly, but the converter acts as if its hittng the end of the crank.but this converter has been in this transmission before.I have no idea why it won't slide to the flex plate
  13. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 7,023

    from Nicasio Ca

    Yeah that would do it...:oops:

    Can you move the converter back any, slide a piece of paper between it and the crank, push it back forward and see if the paper is pinched?
  14. It doesn't move back toward the trans seems to be seated, thats what I don't get. The converter 'knob' doesn't move far back enough to get a paper between.

    Ivce heard if the trans bolted up easily and if the converter is back,that its seated.and I don't see of it wasn't,how it would affect it not moving towards the flex plate. But I don't know,its hard to get my trans out (pull the front end,motor,trans tunnel) so I'm really just off put by this.
  15. Did you rotate the converter to get the bolts started?
  16. Wait.You said the conv. bolts were never installed...and you were running it? Probably galled up the converter pilot ,as it's called...Worse yet... the recess in the crank.
  17. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 7,023

    from Nicasio Ca

    Ew. Maybe loosen the bell housing bolts and wiggle the trans around to see if it that helps the converter move forward? I'd be inclined to try levers, longer flex plate bolts, whatever to try and move it forward before taking it all back apart. Without too much strain or pressure on anything of course.
  18. Or it wasn't seated properly in the transmission to start with....hopefully not the case or it needs a pump now
  19. dizzamn! I dont have any input but wanted to see the end result. good luck with it, hope its an easy fix.
  20. Tried sorta prying it forward,tried longer bolts,all that did was bent the flex plate to it,so I took them back out. Looks like a few small bits on the converter where it should slide in,so I'll have to pull the trans and sand/file them I guess. I think it's gonna sit for a while,I just don't have the wind in my sails to do it now.after all this,so close but so far
  21. Don't see how it would need a new pump
  22. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 7,023

    from Nicasio Ca

    The converter spins OK? Would it potentially hurt the trans to put the bolts in enough to start the engine and spin the converter? Might dislodge some bits and allow it to move forward.
  23. Just do it.
    It will be over faster than you think.
    cptn60 likes this.
  24. 69fury
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,419


    I did this once about 20 years ago- I thought the converter was seated in fully, but in fact it wasn't. When I tightened up the bellhousing, the bolts seated the trans to the engine, but the converter nose drive slots were firm up against the pump tangs, which then snapped off as I bolted the trans to the mill. Had to have new pump put in.-rick
    57 Fargo likes this.
  25. this is how......
  26. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 7,023

    from Nicasio Ca

    That sounds like the opposite of his problem. His converter is in the trans all the way but the front snout won't slide forward into the crank.
    model A hooligan likes this.
  27. DOH!! right you are, apparently reading comprehension is low this morning.....i agree with burs on the converter snout, carry on......
  28. Yeah blowby is correct,seems like the converter is all the way up to the trans but will not pull out towards the flewplate.

    I can tell you that I'd does move forward about an 1/8th then it clunks like is hitting the crank.I did see a small sliver of metal on the converter end/between the crank.but it won't slide back far enough to get a space there since is already slid back as far as it goes.I'm pretty sure is seated in the trans just won't slide toward the motor.

    I figured since it didn't go intomgar that the converter nevr touched anything,but maybe it did make a bur.I did try to lighly pry,and spin it but it didn't help at all.

    The car is very tight and the whole engne and tunnel has to come out to get the trans out
  29. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 7,023

    from Nicasio Ca

    I never knew those converter snouts to be a tight fit in the crank but then again I never really paid attention, always seemed to slide right up. If you have a bit of free play it means either the crank wasn't really bearing on it much or else it was, wore in the free play and raised an edge. I think I would bolt it up with some pressure trying to pull it in, run it a bit and see if you can gradually snug the bolts up. You may run the risk of making things worse but if there is damage it's already there. Feel for you man...
  30. The car is very tight and the whole engne and tunnel has to come out to get the trans out.

    So what's your options at this point ?

    Pull the radiator, slide the engine and trans forward, unbolt the Trans and move the trans back. Fix what's wrong and put it back together. Sounds like a days worth of work. An experience like that will heighten your awareness next time. When finished you be able to teach a class on why its important:)

    Get someone to hold your hand while you do it:
    Find somebody to hold your purse while you bitch about it:
    Let it sit and rot:
    Sell it :

    Prying on those parts is very likely to fuck something up. Forcing them together isn't a good idea ever, they should go together with no more than finger pressure.
    loudbang likes this.

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