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Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 29bowtie, Jan 7, 2009.

  1. fastest32
    Joined: Jul 25, 2013
    Posts: 41

    fastest32
    Member
    from austin

    Wow. Thanks. I guess now I’m on a hunt for a 32 ashtray! ‍♂️


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  2. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    now haunt ebay in the 1932 Chevrolet "ebay motors" advanced section , daily newest listings until one turns up.

    Gonna go have a search just for yuks.

    mike
     
  3. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    Last edited: Jan 24, 2019
  4. easier searching for hens teeth.....they show up now and then, but expect to dump some good $ for one
     
  5. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    BOBK would be looking for peckers.
    grab a dozen sock , order in a keg of suds. pizza and wings for all, and announce a party ?
    mike
     
  6. Man.....I miss him.......

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  7. There out there....... IMG_20190125_182524982.jpeg

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  8. 36coach
    Joined: Feb 23, 2012
    Posts: 11

    36coach
    Member

    Nice job on the chop
     
  9. fastest32
    Joined: Jul 25, 2013
    Posts: 41

    fastest32
    Member
    from austin

    Dang PBR. Is that your coupe in the pic ? What kinda tail light set up you got?


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  10. Yah, my 32. Taillights are 42-48 buick IMG_20181123_191306_634.jpeg IMG_20190112_153421575.jpeg

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  11. fastest32
    Joined: Jul 25, 2013
    Posts: 41

    fastest32
    Member
    from austin

  12. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,168

    31chevymike
    Member

  13. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    those tail lights really suit the early panels more so than the 39 ford teardrop or the round Pontiac light commonly used or rectangular Chevrolet lights.

    mike lynch
     
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  14. Thanks guys, been a long 8 years working on her, drove it up and down the driveway last month, probably the first time it's moved under it's own power since dad drove it in 66-68
     
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  15. fastest32
    Joined: Jul 25, 2013
    Posts: 41

    fastest32
    Member
    from austin

    That’s awesome. Congrats on that. I’ve got my dads 32 that he had since the 60s too.


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  16. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    One thing on the body of the 32 chevy. The panel below the trunk lid is supposed to be free floating and not welded or any product inserted into the slots. In the wood system below it the 90 degree turn on the metal goes into a 3/16 wide slot in the wood, to allow the wood to expand and contract.

    If you weld it solid & most likely if you paint the car , the movement in the frame will cause the area to twist ever so slightly and crack the paint. Keep it in primer and not a problem.

    On my 35 roadster I did a lot of head scratching trying to figure out why the wood joints above the rumble lid and below it were constructed that way. Eventually I came up with the why answer. Visiting a friend with a 31 olds 5w coupe , his was constructed same way as your 32 chev.

    mike lynch..........I wear socks to keep feet warm.....lmao
     
  17. fastest32
    Joined: Jul 25, 2013
    Posts: 41

    fastest32
    Member
    from austin

    Are those the original fenders?


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  18. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,168

    31chevymike
    Member

    Would you explain the definition of "free floating" on the rear panel below the trunk lid Mike? Or how the panel is supposed to be attached? This could be the very reason why after so many years went by on my coupe, that this panel has to be replaced AGAIN. We're talkin' 1996 for me...
     
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  19. Repop's from bowtie reproductions
     
  20. This spring I'll get the car into dp60, to do a shake down for a year or so to see if anything moves as it does still retain some original wood. The wood sub rails are gone and replaced with 1 1/2 x 3 steel and connected by a 1 x 3. Plus everything it tied in with the white round tubes (8 points). Lots of planning went into the frame build and body mounting knowing what the motor puts out and how I'll be driving it. Time will tell.... IMG_20190127_104309759.jpeg IMG_20190127_104323560.jpeg

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  21. RoarsRods
    Joined: Nov 6, 2018
    Posts: 80

    RoarsRods
    Member

    I like that simple trunk lid support you are using on your car and planning on switch my 34 Chevy Roadster Rumble over to a full trunk! Do you know what trunk lid support you had used? I had found this Speedway United Pacific B20037 1932 Ford Trunk Lid Support Arm $49 each all SST and a pair of universal 91132632_L850_fc6ea672-29d9-43e4-9e6e-e66682026e6f.jpg 35 coupe trunk (1).jpg hinges! Plus also looking for a pair of hinges for this swap! Any thoughts on what model for a pair of hinges?
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 27, 2019
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  22. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    he is using the same trunk lid brace / opener holder as our 34-35 standards would be if coupes. That picture is of a 34- 35 standard trunk

    told you I have one or more, its too f---ing cold out there to search either of the sheds for it.

    Like I told you before, YOU need to flip your rumble seat lid and see if it flips end to end, before you consider your next move.

    mike
     
  23. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    DSCF3838.jpg DSCF3839.jpg DSCF3840.jpg DSCF3841.jpg DSCF3842.jpg DSCF3843.jpg DSCF3844.jpg DSCF3846.jpg IMG_5193.JPG DSCF3845.JPG
    I could not find the " lower panel " wood parts, might be out in one of my sheds and freezing cold, so just took what I have inside from basement and took pictures of the parts.
    These parts are for the top of the quarter panels where they join the panel ahead of the trunk/rumble seat lid.

    The bottom area is similar in that it allows the panel to "float" as the wood expands and contracts with the weather.
     
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  24. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    picture # 1 show the roadster panel behind the seating area and ahead of the rumble/trunk lid. Note the ends turned 90 degrees and the original nail holes in the metal . Also notice the area where metal was removed right down to level, not supposed to be like that, is supposed to have about 3/16--1/4" metal in that area. This is the area that FLOATS in the wood slot

    picture #2 clearly shows the SLOT in the wood. I enlarged it slightly.

    picture #3 shows a side view of the wood part, slot on top and a recess underneath

    picture #4 shows a very close up of the wood floater slot and 2 counter sunk screw
    holes from the TOP....to get to these the quarter panel would have to be removed !

    picture #5 this is the metal panel above rumble /trunk lid, shows the water drain trough is stamped into the panel and also shows all the nail holes that would be used to attach the metal panel to the wood crosspiece.

    picture #6 this wood part runs all along the sides of the trunk/rumble lid quarter panel and nails are driven into this part thru the sides. The very top square knob looking end goes thru the roadster top holding area.

    picture #7 shows the bottom area where the panel on your coupe would be, cannot find the actual wood part, its damn cold outside. You get the idea from the top, keep reading.

    picture #8 shows the metal panel above trunk / rumble lid, along with wood piece and the wood part for the sides of the opening. All laid over each other.

    picture #9 shows a 1925---1928 ??? chev coupe wood framing

    picture #10 shows the narrowness of the gap in the rear upper panel and the quarter panel. Doesn't need much and I really did not need to open the slot.

    Hope this answers your questions as the bottom panel fitting idea , would be the same as the top.

    Just remember that if those joints are welded shut "even if the wood has been removed" its a strong potential area for cracking due to chassis flex. Example, when dry walling never have the seam join on the stud following the door, have it extend into the middle of the door / window opening. It always cracks if done wrong.

    I can imagine somebody is going to say use AUTOMOTIVE SEAM SEALER . its not the cure all for all problems. And in 2012 I knew absolutely nothing about any of this. I am just one of those that wants to know the WHY of whats going wrong.

    mike lynch
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2019
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  25. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,168

    31chevymike
    Member

    Thanks for the heads up Mike!
     
  26. appreciate the input, time will tell, but i'll have to keep an eye on that area when she's on the road
     
  27. 67 Cougar
    Joined: Jan 26, 2019
    Posts: 11

    67 Cougar
    Member
    from Wisconsin

  28. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    May have done, not "have did."
    You 67 cougar , have posted these same pictures in this section before. In the last 2-3 years. So what have YOU done with your purchase after all this time .

    mike lynch
     
  29. 67 Cougar
    Joined: Jan 26, 2019
    Posts: 11

    67 Cougar
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Mike,
    Thanks for that correction :) As to the pictures, I didn't post them at all at any time. I just joined here not to long ago because I am thinking about a 27 chevy truck.
    Just been trying to gather info about what it takes to do one of these oldies.
    David
     
  30. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    Well , cougar YOU may have just joined here , but somebody before in last 2-3 years posted those same exact photos in this section on Chevrolets. If I get bored enough , I will go back and scroll thru hundreds of posts to find them.

    First thing you want to do is GOOGLE ------1927 CHEVROLET TRUCK and see what comes up.

    mike lynch
     

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