The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 29bowtie, Jan 7, 2009.
what is the procedure to get the tranny out, once all the cross members are in and the body is on?
MIKE ROUSE , I wasn't taking offense at your suggestion, I was asking for your input. After all , we all need help and direction, nobody can see all the sides at once and it helps to have input from others. Like a bunch of guys working away and one says something that just makes total sense , and how come I didn't think of that. ? More brains than one.
I was going to add another cross piece like the one around the trans end with large hole, back maybe 8--10 ". Like you suggest I already have in stock some 10 gauge plate to bolt too the top x member area and another to be made for the bottom. All attached with grade 8--9 button head allen heads.
Question , why place a round pipe in the hole that sits around the trans tail.?
If the hole is 4 1/2 " round and I can find a pipe that size, should I make the pipe insert the same material thickness as the plate, about 4 gauge or 3/16 " , or drop down to 10 gauge about 1/8 "thickness..
How long should this pipe insert be. ????
TB33........hopefully just undo the lower trans mount I made and remove and also the bracketry behind the trans which will be removable also. Doing it this way because of below with 700R4.
My 35 coupe the stock X member system will not allow me to remove the 700R4 from the motor. just not enough room to pull backwards or lower tail shaft thru the X even with the center plate removed.
As can be seen of my coupe chassis.
I would suggest adding a plate at the top and bottom that bolts in. This will be easier to remove the transmission if needed and it will add more strength for the torsional forces that run through the cross member.
MATT, that's exactly what I was planning to do and I have the 10 gauge sheet already purchased to do it. Was going to go up a little farther on the sides and the rear area. Will make patterns in cardstock and see how it looks and if the extended legs make any sense.
Question , what computer programming do you need to be able to do the RED GRAPH on top of the frame picture.
thank you for your input...................mike lynch
Mike. The pipe was to increase the torsional rigidity of the cross member. It may be overkill.
I think Matt’s idea of large plates bolted top and bottom is a mor practical solution. With the consideration of access to the transmission removable bottom plate would be best. Also looks like the way Chevrolet solved the torque problem except they riveted it in place.
Bouncing ideas off of others is a good way to sort out the best option.
I would be in your driveway stopping by if it wasn’t so far away.
mike rouse ... as you can see by the frame stock pictures they were really figuring that 60 hp engine was going to tear it up, LMAO They put 186 -----3/8" rivets to hold it together, plus the gussets in the front and rear x member corners. Was quite an elaborate setup considering that the 34 standard frame was just a K style cross member further back.
Prior to installing the ZZ4 350 , I ran a 1957 olds 371 punched out 1/8 with 1/4" stroker crank and backed up with 55 olds 4 speed auto. Would carry the wheels in first gear and slicks. Torque used to scare me, it would pull strong to one side, before straightening out. Ran mid to high 12 at 115--120 mph.
The old frame out of my coupe is whats going under the roadster that's pictured in the mods. Never twisted a quarter panel or any other sheet metal.
MIKE ROUSE, thanks for your input, if I end up south this year, will call and make a pop in.
Pictured is a diagram of 34 std frame as comparison to why its a lot weaker.
Mad Mike, great minds think alike I used a program called Fast Stone to take the screenshot and mark up. I work for a structural engineering firm and use this a lot to communicate ideas. Snagit is another program that is similar in function.
I think your idea of going farther out on the sides and to the rear is great. More strength!
Mike Rouse, bouncing ideas is the best way to go for sure. I have a buddy in Boise that is building a 36 Ford truck and I am building a 31 Chevy two door sedan. We are always talking through our next steps so we can get the car built the best we can. Our goal is to keep it simple and not get too carried away with things that do not matter. We are building our cars to be drivers, but look nice and perform as well. It is always nice to get other input to improve
My friend RORY in mass area has a 34 Chevrolet Standard series roadster , an Australian HOLDEN GM bodied car. The main body differs from north American stampings.
He had a frame built by somebody in OHIO complete with IFS. All boxed and tube X member. Nice way to start, think it cost him $14--18,000 ?? Not sure if I asked him
Anyway here it is, he is shipping it off to Maine to have it built , as he has medical issues due to a serious car crash where somebody head on'd him. Hope he joins up here soon with all of us.
Hello All! I am a Newbie on your site! So I am getting adjusted to your site!
My friend Mike Lynch from Ontario Canada posted my above 1934 Chevy Standard Sport Roadster new Resto-Mod build!
Brand new 1934 Chevy Standard frame was built at PROGRESSIVE AUTOMOTIVE Baltimore, OH. Total cost was $9,800 as you see it! I had all the rear 4 links tacked for a Ford 9 inch for my new ground up build up in Maine!
For the most part I have other early 30's Fords Hot Rods that I have ground up built in my garage with a 1934 Ford Sedan all old school traditional build in process now!
Let me know when you are in the area.
Welcome to the site. Great looking Chevy! I'm not too far from you in NH.
Thanks TFoch! Yes we are just across the State line!
Buy the way love your 33 Chevy Roadster!
Is that a Standard or Master and what is your wheelbase?
Just got a few questions on how this site works!
Do I need to log out every time I want to end my session?
On this Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group is that early Chevys only?
Can I also post early 30’s Ford projects or questions?
RORY, you should know your chevies...???.........its a 33 *master* CABRIOLET , body made by fisher.
In 1933 to get a "standard series" roadster you would have to float one across the ocean from Australia with a HOLDEN GM body one year earlier than yours. They also made a standard series touring/phaeton. Believe Glen Rarick in Lafargeville NY has one of each for 33. Inserted picture is of a 1933 Chevrolet standard series Roadster Holden body, rare as hell
Termites and Bowties, kinda says what this section is about, NO talk of : Found On Road Dead, First On Repair Day, First On Race Day. This "site" is crawling with talk of those, here we worship the BOWTIE and all its peculiarities.
Put the LINK to this area in your favorites, no need to log out, just head to another site or X out.
Here are just a few differences that my 1934 Chevy Holden Australian Standard Sport Roadster body has like the square windshield post and the swale just below the windshield and the same towards the rear!
Mad Mike also had mentioned the rumble seat top drain was also different!
I am keeping this original dash with new Classic Gages old school look on my new build!
Also I am doing my best to have NO DATE PERIOD on this new build! So lets say 10 years from no know one can tell what year this Resto-Mod is built!
This car now is all stock and original minus that my steering was on the passenger side and of coarse the paint Atlantic Blue. Runs and drives excellent with its 6 cyl inline top speed on a good day 40-45, NO SYNCROS in the 3 speed transmission drive it like a truck trans, with mechanical brakes which are very good because an old timer pulled out in front of me locked up the brakes when going to a local cruise.
These roads are for sure not like in the 30's with chickens, cows, horses and not as many cars!
With this new frame and 17 inch rear and 15 inch front wheel combination I have already bought it will have a great stance! The front bottom frame will be 6 inches and rear bottom frame is about 10 inches to the ground.
Mad Mike Lynch tried to convince me chrome wire wheels all around but big $$$$$ but said NO!
We all like nice parts but there is a limit one needs to set!
Sorry Mike I was thrown off pre 1934 Chevys Roadsters!
His profile pic it was hard to tell that it had crank up windows!
Thanks for that update on rules laws and regulations!
@RoarsRods here's a better picture for you. It is a Master Cabriolet but I haven't got around to putting the side windows and top back in it yet. Still a work in progress but having fun driving it.
ran into this picture of a 33 coach chevy, STANDARD SERIES , with the back half converted to a woodie. Only picture I have.
Nice. I like the Morris Minor too. I had a little Morris woodie in the 60s. It was really fun car.
The woody is a first for me also.
CHUCK, chevy woodies of the 33--35 era were made on truck chassis and produced by Hercules Campbell a supplier of special truck bodies to GM and also the roadster and phaeton bodies.
I have somewhere pictures of a MINN build of a 34 chev std coach with custom woodie body from windshield firewall back.. He really did a good job. Car got sold to a calif buyer few years ago.
pictures of 33--35 woodies, these were built for the USA government for Forestry Dept. , that's why so rarely seen.
here is pictures of a 1933 chevy woodie that was sale on ebay this spring, sold for around $25G
Made up Woodies can't compare to the real ones.
THANKS FOR SHARING
Just had seen this 31 Chevy Roadster on Ebay for 42k!
That's the estimated cost for just the parts on my new 34 Chevy Roadster build!
Here is the link:
Cabriolet^^^ Roll-up windows...best of both worlds!
wow, did you get a load of that under dash shot of the wiring............my plate of spaghetti dinner doesn't look that bad..
Other than that , nice clean car, lots of shiny stuff to keep clean. Overpriced, don't think so, but I am not in market for 31-32
Hey guys can I get some thought for 4 Speed Automatic transmission 200R4 verses 700R4 and which way to go for my new 34 Chevy Roadster build?
My engine will be running is a SP383 Deluxe Chevrolet Performance Crate Motor “NO COMPUTER” only HEI Distributer, 435 HP @5600 RPM, 445 LB-FT @4600 RPM
Will be running a Ford 9inch Posi Rear End!
Not sure but would think the 200R might be a little weak for a 435 HP motor.
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