The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 29bowtie, Jan 7, 2009.
this is what I pulled off my 30 coupe
its not a part that I run into when searching ebay for Chevrolet stuff.
Just went for a search on ebay USA and typed in..........1930 Chevrolet tie rod end clamp.
Search using ADVANCED .
was a few for sale but has a stud on end, not hole like your showing
went back to ebay and searched 1932 Chevrolet tie rod end..........found a couple of them, price a little crazy
Thanks guys. I just said screw it, and got the ball joint style. Now the just remove the ballstud...
And taper the hole . 7 degrees ???
I was thinking that too, might be easier to just purchase the tie rod ends with taper and take the clamps off , which is really what he has mislaid.
Every time we drive down to San Clemente’s “Surf Ghetto,” to buy something or visit with friends, we see this 1946 Chevy Panel Truck, sitting by the side of the road. Behind the panel truck is a warehouse that sells all kinds of new/old parts for cars and trucks. This 46 Chevy has been seen all over this neck of So Cal. It is a great way to advertise a family business.
The panel truck is larger than most cars and trucks, so it stands out. The green body and black fenders make is different than most panel trucks. It is a great look for an old car. Obviously, it can hold a lot of old car parts in the back.
The big, detailed front end
The 46 Chevy is perfect for a surf van/delivery/panel truck in this So Cal region. Even old style, longboards can fit inside. No, this is not an ad for the Classy Chevy USA Company. It is just a neat old truck, parked outside for all to see and enjoy.
and enjoy, I did.
Try to imagine the size of the stamping die to do that roof panel and also the quarter panels.
Washing that would require ladders or staging and many hours of work.
Looks like the tie rod ends on a 55-59 Chevy / GMC pickup. Actually, I've noticed a lot of similarities in the mechanical parts between my 34 Master and my 59 GMC.
I thought the same thing about the steering column and steering box it reminds me of my 57 chevy truck
I finally started on my 31 2 door sedan. Got the body off the frame and am working on the frame/suspension.
What are you all using for leaf spring shackles? Are you using the stock replacement like these:
I am putting a 10 bolt rear from a 1970 Camaro but am using stock rear springs from a 46 1/2 ton. I plan to pull 2 of the 8 leafs out. The front end will be stock but I will drop the axle 3" or 4". Plan on using the stock springs and shackles up front.
Any spring tips you all could share will be greatly appreciated.
That is what I'll be using. You can also get it about 1" lower but using the shorter front shackle plates. I recently learns that the rear leaves on the '48-'early '55 pickups are thicker than the front leafs. If building s spring pack some height can be altered by swapping front and rear leafs not just thickness but spring arch.
Really a $105 for those shackles which are not even correct for your 31. If your originals are okay, use them.
Careful on axle dropping, no more than 3", OVER STOCK, otherwise your going to have axle clearance to the ground issues, commonly called scrub line. You can get another 1-----1 1/2" lower by reversing the spring eyes on the front springs, plus de-arching the springs to almost flat . The openness of the 30-31 fenders allows the tires to pivot easily when turning.
Try the car with all 8 leaves in the back, you need the springs strength to stop wheel hop. Rear end width is critical on our early chevys because the tires need to fit into narrow rear fenders. Preferred width mounting face to mounting face should be 56--57". I think 66--67 chevy nova would be more correct width ????????
I plan to re-use the front shackles. I do not have any shackles for the rear so I plan on buying some soon. I saw some other ones for a 31 Chevy that I will grab. I used the link above as reference.
For my build, I am not running fenders. I will use disc brakes up front but hide them behind the stock 31 backing plates...similar to what the guy with the 31 Ford Vicky (forgot his name) did here on the HAMB.
I have a 283 with a 3 speed OD. I am not planning to box the frame. I am not building a high horse/torqure engine. I figured that engine trans combo with the 10 bolt rear should be a solid set up. The rear end width from hub to hub is 60". I measured the width of the body at the bottom of the rear side windows and it is also at 60". I think the rear will be ok in width. I plan on buying after market 16" steel wheels to match the bolt pattern.
The wood in the body is mostly gone but the sheet metal is in great shape. The plan is the build a steel structure to attache the body to and a new subfloor out of steel as well. I need to find a set of 31 doors. Currently I have a nice set of 29 doors which fit but have different window openings and stamping below the window is different. I am using these as a place holder until I find a set of 31 doors later on.
I am working on getting the frame wrapped up and a roller, then I will move on to the sub floor and body structure.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info. I will be sure not to go crazy. Good to know there is a rule of thumb for these. I will probably just go 3" on the axle and see how that looks. If I need more, I could reverse the eyes and flatten the spring as you suggested.
if you want to be down in da weeds with 2" ground clearance on the axle, this is dropped 4 1/2 OVER STOCK
Do any of you know where I can find a set of 40's - 50's Chevy truck 16" 6 lug steel wheels? Looking for a set of four.
chevys of the 40's ??? has a lot of 40's stuff
I could use some help identifying a project I recently purchased. It's supposed to be a 1934 sedan delivery. It's on a standard chassis ( 107 WB) . Every search I try brings me here to the HAMB, so I thought I'd ask here. The numbers on firewall are style 35-1271A...body F761...trim 43...and paint 186. there is a ID plate on the passenger side floor that reads 12EC06....XXXX. My research here tells me the '34 was a '35 body on a 34 chassis. Was there any significant changes on the chassis from '34 to'35? Thanks in advance for any help.
View attachment 3959880
Chevrolet did not make a *standard series * sedan delivery in 1934, only the ,master.
Body style 35-1271A is a 1935 sedan delivery as they made the SD in 1935 std.
12EC06xxxx.....12 is the factory code for a 1935 standard........EC is a standard model code also.............06 is the month the SD was made.
Basically a 34 Chevrolet standard has a K member in the frame. A 1935 standard has an X member in the frame and is significantly stronger than a 34. I have 3 .....35 Chevrolet standards: coupe, phaeton and roadster under construction.
350 turbo and 700R4 fit into the X member no clearance problem and somebody makes a beefy trans mount for it. 4 speed will fit, but if your going tremec T56 ..6 speed your going to have to seriously open the X up.
Thanks man, that must be why I can't find any info on it. It really doesn't matter, it's a cool car either way. Yes, that is the x in the frame. I wasn't going to ask about trans fitment...this being a traditional site, Again, thanks for the info.
everything on the 1935 std sedan delivery is the same as pass car , except the main SD body. It should have the spare tire in the right front fender. Hope its a complete car as 1934-1935 chevrolet standard parts are getting very pricey.
1934 master dash fits into a 34-35 std, nothing else from a 34 master fits. Whole thing is larger. The master outsold the std 7---1 , so master parts are more plentiful.
I'm finding that out in a hurry. It's been in moth balls for 40 years. Previous owner bought it when he was 15, his first car. He apparently took it apart to hot rod it around 1980. The fenders and running boards must have been toast because he bought fiberglass ones 2 inches wider. He also installed a M 2 front end, but that's about as far as he got. I think there was a 327 in the corner of his shop that I have to go back for.
question, whats a M 2.................oh I got it, MUSTANG TWO.
The good news is the front fenders, running boards are same as 34-35 std pass car. Going to look for a picture re rear fenders. Yes same as pass car.
Something tells me that below the sedan del rear door , is the gas tank cover panel and its special to the sed del only . Rear bumper should have a bend inwards for access to rear of vehicle. You see these so infrequently its diff to remember the peculiarities of the sedan delivery.
Fiberglass front and rear fenders are made for this, steel or glass running boards are made for this.
Rear end width of axle assy should be 56-57 max to keep tires and wheels under fender.
View attachment 3962224
Very interesting, appears as tho the gas tank cover panel is all one piece with the rear section.. You would have to look inside to see how the factory joined the whole rear section together. Body would have to be removed from the frame in order to do any repairs.
In early 1934 up to December the gas tank cover panel on the rear was a separate panel, including the 2 door sedan. In late 1934 and all 35 the sedan and coach the gas tank cover panel as a seperate piece was eliminated and the whole back area was stamped out of 3 pieces and joined together. Which is why if you have a coupe or roadster or phaeton that part is extremely hard to come by as they continued to be made with the removable cover.
If you GOOGLE 1935 Chevrolet sedan delivery for sale. I got lots of hits.
Wow, never seen an early CHEVY sedan delivery before... This will make a very unique hot rod for all to see! Get to work @borntowrench! Show us more photos too!!
pretty sure we were talking about this 34 Chevrolet master sedan delivery picture in the last year of posts ??
Indeed, I had forgotten about that one. Never thought any of us would likely see another...
1935 CHEVROLET MASTER............was at a local cruise nite tonight and a reader of this section recognized my phaeton and asked me if knew where he could get a a 1935 master left front fender. He just got a 35 master shipped to him and it had 2 left front fenders. So I guess he is either up for outright buying one or swapping one his lefts.
mike350 at rogers dot com
Thanks for the information last night.
I actually have 2 left fenders and looking for a right. ( Passenger side)
Has anyone modified a 36 to fit a 35 Master ?
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