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Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 29bowtie, Jan 7, 2009.

  1. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 12,961

    tb33anda3rd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    i was amazed when i made the bottoms of my doors how accurate the measurements where from one side to the other.. the cars were built really precise.
     
    Fern 54, Bowtie Coupe and 31chevymike like this.
  2. Call Jim Rodman - +12197973775 to see if he has any patterns. Try him in the early am and be patient till you reach him.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  3. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 12,961

    tb33anda3rd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    here are some photos. DSCF3595.JPG DSCF3599.JPG DSCF3600.JPG DSCF3622.JPG i used oil based paint. thinned the first coat to soak in then a good coat to seal. nothing protects wood better than paint.
     
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  4. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 473

    madmike3434
    Member

    biggeorge likes this.
  5. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 12,961

    tb33anda3rd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    thanks Mike
     
  6. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 2,264

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Thanks Mike I'll give him a call. Where is he located? I'm in Nevada so early for him may be the middle of the night for me. I have a hot rodder/cabinet maker friend with a wood CNC machine. He is getting interested in fixing my old wood. Now that didn't come out right! :eek:
     
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  7. Jim is in Indiana and yes, your last quote may have not come out right... As far as your friend who is a cabinet maker, you have a real ace in your corner.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  8. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 473

    madmike3434
    Member

    side window weatherstrip.jpg TB33ANDA3RD.........I think one thing we really don't think about with these cars is water infiltration down the glass and onto the wood inside. With newer cars there is drain holes at the bottom to let trapped water out. Ours do not have that and its one of those areas we really need to pay more attention to.

    For instance on 33--35 chevys I believe there should be a piece of **** L **** shaped rubber that should fit into the window riser glass holder channel , so that when the window glass holder channel is raised , it seals the glass against water getting by it. The same *****L***** shaped rubber may also be nailed to the wood on the door facing the glass.

    I am not sure what was there originally, the above was what I observed quite a while ago. I do know that LYNN STEELE rubber co in Denver NC had it listed in their paper catalogue and it was tough to find. Gotta take the coupe apart soon to correct the problem. I might have to drill holes in the wood to make sure any water getting by gets back out. I noticed the problem when my pockets in the doors were wet inside .

    If I can find the lynn steele part number will post it......70-0079-58 as pictured side window weatherstrip.jpg

    mike lynch " the real & original madmike3434 "
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2017
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  9. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 12,961

    tb33anda3rd
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Connecticut HAMB'ers

    i did drill holes in the front and back corners. i can't remember what i did to seal the outside of the window or if i used a "wiper" . i will go look and report back.
     
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  10. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 473

    madmike3434
    Member

    I was thinking of a way to improve the drain holes. If you take 1/4" brake line and single flare it on one end, slightly counter sink the wood and insert the correct length of new drain line, you have just produced the perfect drain. This way the wood you just drilled thru is not exposed to water. Some water proof glue around the flared end would help to. I did this to a window on a shed flower box.
    mike lynch
     
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  11. Thought I'd post some pics on my own build to help keep this thread fresh. Got half the body almost stripped of all paint down to bare steel. In the meantime, have the chassis stripped of the suspension. Also cut the front cross member out, waiting to purchase the new '32 Ford front frame horns that will clean up the front rails since mine were damaged and repaired badly. Have the frame flipped over to remove the remaining original leaf spring mounts - tedious, but I'm getting there. 20171127_195657_001.jpg 20171205_203534.jpg 20171205_203557.jpg 20171120_205354.jpg
     
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  12. Thought I'd throw in a really neat video of the '77 Street Rod Nationals in St. Paul, Minnesota for a different thread post. To date, I never had the opportunity to attend one of the nationals, but did attend the Daytona Turkey Rod Run in Daytona, Florida for a few years. My 4:11 gears with no overdrive and the original 10 gallon gas tank were obvious reasons. Enjoy some nostalgia times - it's an hour long, so spend some time, sit back and enjoy! And yes, there are some Chevy's in there...

     
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  13. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 473

    madmike3434
    Member

    WEBERS A.jpg WEBERS B.jpg WEBERS C.jpg WEBERS D.jpg WEBERS  DE.jpg
    Decided to start work on my weber carbs set up for the 35 chev roadster .
    First thing I have to do is make the WEBER 48 IDF carbs adapt to the WEBER 48 IDA air cleaner system. These are totally diff carbs and mount differently to the manifold.
    I made a cardstock pattern for the tops of the 48-IDF's. Transferred that onto to some 6061-T6 aluminum plate. Drilled the 8 plate mounting holes 1/4" on the one side and checked it for fit. Dug out my metal hole saw of 1 3/4" and made the 4 carb holes. Everything was fine and then scored the aluminum shaped air cleaner base using the "fast Freddie" produced part. Using my Makita 5" grinder and 5" zip cutter disc cut out the shape needed. To clean everything up I swapped in a flapper disc 60 grit and roughly smoothed out the edges. To get a better finish I dug out the Ryobi belt sander and went at the edges. Sprayed the plate with a can of BLUE STEEL toolmakers ink and re-scribed the plate.

    As you can see adapting the "fast Freddie" WEBER IDA air cleaner base is more involved and requires careful surgery to the black base. I need to decide whether to zip cut out the area in the base or use a high speed air die grinder with a cutting bit. This is one of those cases when you wish you had a MILL to be able to take out easily the areas needed. Machinists around here are $90--120 an hour. The base will be bolted to the plate using allen heads 6 mill , with drilled for safety wire holes. Why not just red Loctite. ??? I had an air clean bolt come loose a few years ago , went into the bore and was banging away inside cylinder number 7.

    I will be taking the carbs off and getting the intake , which was polished , powder coated gloss black . The carbs will be disassembled, stripped of the white powder coating , rebuilt and powder coated a satin black.

    mike lynch.........the real & original madmike3434
     
  14. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 473

    madmike3434
    Member

    These are pictures of the fast Freddie weber 48 IDA air cleaner assembly I am carving into , to convert over to the 48 IDF carbs.
    mike lynch weber 48 ida air cleaners.jpg weber ida.jpg
     
  15. TomH
    Joined: Oct 21, 2003
    Posts: 1,250

    TomH
    Member

    When you could cruise the St. Paul fair grounds, now it's a fight to get into the place. I was there in 77 with my 35 Sedan Delivery. Thanks for the link. 35 sedan del.jpg
     
  16. You're welcome Tom! Was your '35 in this video? Kind of annoying listening to the "projector" background noise, but it was neat never the less. I didn't think these NSRA events had rally competitions within.

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  17. TomH
    Joined: Oct 21, 2003
    Posts: 1,250

    TomH
    Member

    I'm not sure if it was in the video. There was one second where it might have been in the back round. A buddy with a orange T bucket with a diamond brown top that was with our group was shown. Back in the day NSRA had driving events, also almost all of the entries were driven. No trailer queens back then.
     
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  18. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 473

    madmike3434
    Member


    I have been to NSRA national & regional events, nats south , nats east ,where the enclosed and open trailers outnumbered the driven to the event cars in the parking lot of the hotel. I spoke to some of the people on sunday leaving day and they only lived 100 miles away and had something I didn't think should be special on a trailer .

    Biggest problem today is that so many people cannot be bothered going because of the heat of august and hi costs to register , I guess ?
    mike lynch
     
  19. Not much going on here for recent posts, so here's the latest on my build. Finally removed the rear leaf spring mounts and modified the gas tank apron so that when the body is back on, the apron will be hidden underneath the body for strength on the rear frame rails. 20171220_145140.jpg 20171220_145307.jpg 20171220_145748.jpg 20171220_171602.jpg 20171220_171630.jpg 20171220_191423.jpg

    My rear frame rails were cut so they will be sticking out from the body about 4 inches or so, enabling me to shorten them or leave them to where they look the best. I cut the frame just above the rumble seat step pad bolt (picture 2). I'll be able to use a spreader bar and nerfs to finish them off, now resembling the rails from a '32 Ford. Since I'm installing the 20 gallon SS fuel tank in the rumble area, now anyone will have a CLEAR view of my Winters QCR!
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2017
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  20. jgrohio
    Joined: Aug 11, 2011
    Posts: 145

    jgrohio
    Member
    from NE Ohio

    Did you strip with chemicals?
     
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  21. Yes I did, using POR-15 paint stripper that was in a gel form. I thought by leaving this stripper on the body much longer that it would strip more than one layer of paint. It did not, having much more success using my mini orbital sander. It sanded down much quicker using the smaller 2" arbor, seeming to have higher rpm's.

    Sill have the door jambs left and the taillight panel to finish off. Once I purchase a welding tank and gas, I can plan on drawing up some boxing templates to get them made up and welded in. This is where I begin to learn how to weld finally, a huge step in my own build!

    How is your build coming? Happy New Year to you and the rest of the HAMBers!

    Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  22. jgrohio
    Joined: Aug 11, 2011
    Posts: 145

    jgrohio
    Member
    from NE Ohio

    Been on hold with holidays and then got sick. Hope to get back at it soon. Hope to get frame into a friends shop to start working on 4 link and some frame work. Still drawing out some idea how I want to box and brace the frame.
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  23. I posted some companies that sell boxing plates for Chevrolets for certain years on earlier posts if you're going that way. Are you talking x-member for bracing? We're looking forward to see some progress photos in your friend's shop.

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  24. jgrohio
    Joined: Aug 11, 2011
    Posts: 145

    jgrohio
    Member
    from NE Ohio

    Luckily the shop Im going to has a CNC Plasma cutter, so he will make what we come up with, wont be a true x but maybe somthing creative

     
  25. jgrohio
    Joined: Aug 11, 2011
    Posts: 145

    jgrohio
    Member
    from NE Ohio

    thinking this is how I may layout frame, then just see what we can come up with for the actual design of the metal supports probably some kind boxed with some plasma cut design
     

    Attached Files:

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  26. What is your wheel base JGR? I thought the frames were the same from '29-32, but there must be differences. My wheelbase is 109" with about 13 feet in length total and when I asked a plasma company for boxing plates from a '30, he wasn't sure they would fit my '31.
     
  27. jgrohio
    Joined: Aug 11, 2011
    Posts: 145

    jgrohio
    Member
    from NE Ohio

    My wheelbase is 106 1/4 as it sits, that's with the drop axle and springs in front and the rear end that had been installed when originally hot rodded in the eighties. I have yet to find a diagram that show chassis dimensions from factory. But seems like they sit right in fenders when they were on.
     
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  28. jgrohio
    Joined: Aug 11, 2011
    Posts: 145

    jgrohio
    Member
    from NE Ohio

    Overall length is 150 1/2 from end of rail to end of rail. front axle c/l is 18 1/2 back from end of front rail.
     
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  29. jgrohio
    Joined: Aug 11, 2011
    Posts: 145

    jgrohio
    Member
    from NE Ohio

    1930.jpg this is how it sat as it was before I got it
     
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  30. Those measurements are just the same as mine, only my wheel base is few inches longer - planning on installing my '32 Ford I-Beam axle at the same 18-1/2" as well, once the new Ford cross member is installed. Your '30 had a nice rake when you bought the rod, also not having seen one either - great score JGR!
     

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