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Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 29bowtie, Jan 7, 2009.

  1. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    31 chevymike..........if you were just buying that car now , the pressure would be on U to preserve the paint as it is by covering everything with clear coat. People are doing it all over the place to original paint , by sanding org paint and clear coating to GET THE LOOK.

    THAT UPHOLSTERED PADDED DASH IS TRICK, not sure I have seen an early chevy done that way , and it LOOKS GOOD .

    I can see American Pickers on TV going nuts about its rust and paint or lack of it.

    Build your car the way you want, you do not have to be pigeon holed into a category.

    mike lynch :D
     
  2. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,168

    31chevymike
    Member

    Couldn't agree with you more Mike! I'm ITCHIN' to start a new build thread, but after reading so many build threads here from way back when I joined the HAMB, I feel it's better to wait till I have most or all of the parts, photographs, etc. Other readers definitely get impatient when you don't post within their timelines. So far, I posted the re-assembly of my Winters Quick Change Rear to start on my re-build - which was enjoyable if other readers might have had the chance to catch a glimpse of it.
     
  3. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,341

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    31chevymike, That is an cool and interesting coupe. Did you build it and when? What are the brakes? Which small block? I'd like to know more about it. Is it the one in your avatar?
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2017
  4. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,168

    31chevymike
    Member

    I never cared for the late 60's look, wide pleats, the padded dash, etc. So I knew I was going to strip all of the paint down to bare steel. The reason the roof is showing like that, is that the coupe had this GOD-AWFUL vinyl top on it, which I immediately ripped off that day. The reason the previous owner put the vinyl on the roof was to hide the 3 tons of bondo he laid on to reproduce the curve on the roof. A later fix that I need to do soon enough. When I get to the interior, she will be completely white with thin pleats of the EARLIER 60's look. That window sticker on the windshield is from 1976, the last time she was registered before I bought her, sitting peacefully in a man made garage for over 19 years - NEAT HUH?
     
  5. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,168

    31chevymike
    Member

    I bought the rod in Long Island, New York in 1995, from the previous owner for a paltry $2,000. One of the neighbors knew of the car's existence and the day I bought her, he came up to me while the car was being loaded onto a flat bed and offered me his '72 Chevy Nova, an 11 second race car as an even trade... An extremely good trade, but seriously - I've been dreaming of a hot rod coupe my whole life. Anyway, a long interesting story short, the coupe had a 1961 Chevy 283 from a truck when I looked up the engine number on the rear of the block. Had the Turbo 400 transmission and an early ham 4:11 posi from a '63 Impala. The front brakes were converted to '53 Chevy, using the original '31 Chevy backing plates. And yes, same car in my avatar. I had gone through different styles and the GASSER look was in my opinion, the BEST look to date! Thanks for asking SIX BALL!
     
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  6. mlagusis
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,050

    mlagusis
    Member

    I have a 31 Chevy Coach and am putting a Chevy 10 bolt rear end. I want to use stock or narrow stock appearing rear leaf springs. Does anyone know which leafs I should look out for? I am having a hard time finding a set of early 30's rear springs nearby Austin Texas. I was thinking about grabbing a set from a late 40'2 to mid 50's half ton truck. Any ideas or tips and tricks?

    Thanks Matt!
     
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  7. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,341

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    31chevymike, Thanks, that is a great story. That was a good find and you've done well by it. The brake swap is interesting. That is something I'm trying to figure out. I'd like to use '53 or later pickup brakes with '49 pickup drums if I can. I is cool how many stages our cars go through if we keep them long enough.
     
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  8. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,341

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Matt, I just went out a measured the distance between the rear spring perches on a '29 sedan frame and a '49 pickup. They were both 52" so the pickup springs should work. They both use 1 3/4" leaves. You can build the spring pack to suit you.
     
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  9. mlagusis
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,050

    mlagusis
    Member

    Thanks Six Ball. I think the 49 Chevy truck springs will be super easy to find compared to 31 Chevy. My approach to the hot rod is Chevy in a Chevy. I also want to use stock width springs front and rear so this info helps!
     
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  10. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,341

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Glad to be of help. Chevy in Chevy is good. Think of a Chevy or Jimmy 6 where the old Chevy 6 was.
     
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  11. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,168

    31chevymike
    Member

    I've been ready to strip ALL of the paint down to bare steel again. I'm doing this inside the garage, possibly NOT using a strong chemical paint stripper. Thought about using a heavy duty paint stripper, using my drill. There's 3 layers of paint - Veraprime - DP-90 - Red rattle can primer. Thought about that old, redesigned Roto-Stripper. Any suggestions? Roto-Stripper.jpg
     
  12. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member


    I have never used one of those, generally when stripping paint I have used a chemical paint stripper from 3M with stainless scraper or I would see what EASTWOOD has.
    I have also noticed on the car shows on tv that when they are stripping a car/truck they use random orbital sanders with 5" sand paper discs on them. Could get rather dusty. Best to push vehicle outside with any system you use. They use air powered units.

    With 3 layers of paint I would chemical strip first.

    mike lynch :)
     
  13. Joseph Allen
    Joined: Nov 22, 2016
    Posts: 187

    Joseph Allen

    [​IMG]



    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  14. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,168

    31chevymike
    Member

    The thing is, I'm keeping my build VERY low-key, living in a community where I'm renting my garage. The front office may stop me from working on my rod. So I DEFINATELY cannot roll the car out for ventilation. And, I cannot hose off the body either. So with the garage door open somewhat, I'll still chemically strip the car and simply bring some water to dilute the chemicals. Then I can strip off any paint left with the mini orbital sander using my air compressor. Thanks Mike!

    Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  15. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,341

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    I tend to go with the chemical approach. It may be nasty but is easier to contain. Sanding, mechanical strippers and such could fill your shop with stuff you don't want to breathe for a longtime, unless you use a "unpaint" booth.o_O
     
  16. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,168

    31chevymike
    Member

    A couple of those disposable paint masks should do. Like I mentioned above, the orbital sander will come in handy to finalize getting down to bare metal. Thanks for the advice Six Ball.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  17. mlagusis
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,050

    mlagusis
    Member

    I have a 283 with Power Pack heads and a 3 speed OD trans. Pulling the stock 6 out, there should be plenty of room for the 283 and fire wall hanging pedals.
     
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  18. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    Generally the chev SBC will fit into any early chevy 1929 and up without firewall mods. You can sit the motor in with passenger side head about 1" forward of the firewall. Try to keep the motor higher up in the chassis so that you can easily use a mechanical 16" 6--7 blade fan , rather than an electric one. One less electrical component to screw up.

    mike lynch
     
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  19. mlagusis
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,050

    mlagusis
    Member

    Thanks for the tips Mike! I agree mechanical>electrical
     
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  20. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,341

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    283, 3 speed OD, depending on rear end ratio and tire size that will be a really fun car to drive. Is it an old Borg Warner OD those are fun and can be configured to be very driver friendly.
     
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  21. fordflambe
    Joined: Apr 9, 2007
    Posts: 556

    fordflambe
    Member

    Before..................and After................

    31 chevy before1.JPG Phil2 400.jpg
     
  22. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,168

    31chevymike
    Member

    Wow! Your '31 turned out impressive! Don't think I ever saw a '31 Chevy with a '32 Chevy grille, more so with a '31 hood. The '32 grille tapers in more toward the bottom sides. Personally, I always digged the look of the 4 chromed slots on the '32 hood.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  24. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    besides the 32 radshell on the 31, check out the dropped model A ford or 32 ford dropped headlight bar and large head lights............VERY TRICK

    mike lynch
     
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  25. fordflambe
    Joined: Apr 9, 2007
    Posts: 556

    fordflambe
    Member

    I put that car on the road in late 73'. The 31' grille shell was rechromed but had so many waves, i just couldnt put it on the car so thus created the hunt for an option. Found a nice 32' Chevy grille shell and found a sheet of the grille material and voila'. Had to slightly work the lower pan below grille shell to fit the 32 shell. The Headlight bar is the original, I heated and bent to drop then had rechromed. The headlights are original with sealed beam conversions. Straight axle is a Mor-Drop, done back when i built the car.

    Thanks for all the great comments! I still drive and enjoy the car..............
     
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  26. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    question...........did you make a jig to bend the head light bar ends and if so do you remember how difficult it was to do ?

    Appears the rear fenders have been widened significantly to hold a pair of large tires. What rear end are you running and also what wheels and tires are on the car.?

    Hard to tell from the pictures because the tree in the background. With that filled roof are you using a van roof with large slots stamped into it.

    mike lynch
     
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  27. fordflambe
    Joined: Apr 9, 2007
    Posts: 556

    fordflambe
    Member

    Yes, i made a jig to bolt the two ends to then welded reference gauges onto jig to make sure the end results were symmetrical. Reference gauge 2 inches from headlight bolt hole, toward center of bar, at the height i wanted to obtain (each end) then one in the center of the bar. Then a buddy and I heated both ends (with rosebuds) at the same time and applied downward pressure at the center of the bar. bar quickly became malliable and laid right into place. Having the ends bolted to the jig and keeping the heat on the ourside of the headlight boss kept the bosses in alignment. We Let cool............mounting holes stayed put and bar bolted on car perfectly.

    Fenders in the picture are fiberglass i purchased back in early 70. Internet wasnt around and i couldnt dig up any steel fenders worth using. I have since found NOS front and rear that i am planning on putting on the car someday....Fiberglass Rears are 2 inches wider than stock. Rear wheels are 10 inch wide with 4 and half inch offset on inside. Rear end is a stock 72 camaro 12 bolt that went in after i shucked the 57 rear i started with. The 72 rear is stock width with drum brakes. I have done measurements and 72 rear should work fine with 8 inch wheels (same offset) and 235 or 255 tires when i install NOS rear fenders.

    The top is accetylene welded in with coat hangers as filler rod. Back when this car was built, i couldnt even spell TIG. Top is fron a 61 chevrolet wagon (without roof rack)......... The two outer ribs in the panel ran off of the front corners of the body and didnt look right so i cut them back about 12 to 14 inches and it looks as if it were made for that car.

    07FEB15_Ryans Steakhouse1.JPG 07FEB15_Ryans Steakhouse.JPG
     
  28. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    The ribbed roof is fairly typical of the build era and looks good on the car.

    Thanks for an excellent explanation of how you did the dropped head light bar. It will serve as a source of info for anyone else wanting to do the 29--31 Chevrolet .

    mike lynch ;)
     
  29. Fern 54
    Joined: Oct 21, 2010
    Posts: 44

    Fern 54
    Member
    from Pomona, CA

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    Both of my rides are Bowties, 34 and 54.
     
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  30. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    VERY SWEET PAIR. ESPECIALLY LIKE THE TRUCK, GENERAL LOOK AND ESPECIALLY THE COLOUR. EXACTLY WHAT COLOUR IS THAT AND FROM WHAT MAKE AND YEAR.

    SEE YOU MADE USE OF FORD STYLE FRONT END , YOUR FORGIVEN FOR SUFFERING A WEAK MOMENT lmao.
     
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