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Technical Techical : Tardel Step

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by hoonabout, Sep 23, 2018.

  1. hoonabout
    Joined: May 8, 2012
    Posts: 11

    hoonabout
    Member
    from Australia

    I’m in the process of stepping the rear of my model a frame and I’m wondering if I should lay rear crossmember back around 2 degrees.

    My plan is to relief cut the frame just behind the front crossmember to increase castor to around 7.5 degree to account for rubber rake (5.5-16 front and 6.5-16 rear).

    I’m concerned about rear spring bind if I don’t.

    Thanks in advance.[​IMG]


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  2. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,639

    thirtytwo
    Member

    Over thinking the rear and why cut frame for Caster and not crossmember where spring mounts
     
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  3. Youngpunk
    Joined: Sep 7, 2018
    Posts: 3

    Youngpunk

    You’re just on the ball today, two tardel explanations for two different people, in two different categories of the forum, within 20 minutes of each other, keep it up man


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  4. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,639

    thirtytwo
    Member

    Slow day Sunday with unusually good internet today!
     

  5. Youngpunk
    Joined: Sep 7, 2018
    Posts: 3

    Youngpunk

    Nice, off topic but do you know much about Edsel’s?


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  6. fortynut
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,038

    fortynut
    Member

    I have a cherry A frame in my shop and I'll be damned if it will be cut up for that reason. Engineering solutions to caster and spring bind are not frame problems. They are attachment solved by other methods. In my view you don't chop down the tree because the limbs are not growing where you want them, you deal with the things attached to the trunk in a variety of ways other than that.
     
  7. I think it's a reasonable question for the reason given.
    But, what is the suspension system? If it's any kind of radius rod/ladder bar/torque tube setup, it's going to swing in an arc anyway, so by the original logic, the spring needs to be perpendicular to the radius of this arc. Rake or no rake.
     
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  8. hoonabout
    Joined: May 8, 2012
    Posts: 11

    hoonabout
    Member
    from Australia

    Thanks guy, you have given me food for though.

    I’m planning on using a torque tube in the rear. The idea was to have the axle centred on the crossmember at ride height though it’s arc of travel.

    Re front crossmember point taken re tree analogy I’ll give it more thought.


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  9. oldsman41
    Joined: Jun 25, 2010
    Posts: 1,556

    oldsman41
    Member

    X 38 got it i believe I don’t think the rake would matter. You didn’t say you were using a dropped front axle so you really don’t have much of a rubber rake in my opinion.
     
  10. hoonabout
    Joined: May 8, 2012
    Posts: 11

    hoonabout
    Member
    from Australia

    Left that bit out, I’m using a 1939 axle dropped to 4”, reverse eye springs front and rear.


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  11. oldsman41
    Joined: Jun 25, 2010
    Posts: 1,556

    oldsman41
    Member

    I don’t think that is out of the ordinary for an A pretty much everybody here has ran a dropped axle on an A don’t over think this Henry was a pretty smart cookie we have just made things a little better over the years.
     
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  12. Model A Gomez
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,695

    Model A Gomez
    Member

    I've done two frames with no problems, I did cut my frame at a 45 degree angle and that way I had more weld surface without the square corner. Same basic procedure just a little different take on it. My avatar was done that way in the late 90's and so is the Sport Coupe I'm building now.
     

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