The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Tall Paul, Feb 28, 2010.
What CoolHand said ^^^
Not sure if this has been covered yet but how does the Caster angle come out when you just weld straight in. Are you shimming to get a proper caster or is there enough adjustment in the suspension that you are able to set it to a reasonable spec????????
Exactly. It's been the guys transplanting the Jag IFS in their rides that have done it both ways, not Jaguar.
CoolHand, that's why I asked this question. I even started another thread on it with a poll to get opinions on it. In my head, at least the way my brain works, I was seeing the shock on the crossmember as not being ideal. I'm sure it is perfectly fine for the actual suspension movement. I looked at it as the shock also helped dampen the crossmember to frame flexing/movement with it soft mounted by the factory rubber mounts.
I wouldn't be suprised if running a second shock on each side would work well too. The suspension shock isolated between the lower control arm and crossmember and a shock from the crossmember body to the frame. I'm sure someone will school me on why this won't work and I know it would look ugly, but it's just me thinking out loud.
I've found an '89 XJ6, would it have the good frontend under it or not?
The 1989 xj6 IFS differs from the earlier IRS that a number of us have installed. I suggest that you find a pre 87.
Man. I forgot how curvaceous the front fenders are on this beast. Love em'.
I just didn't feel good about the measurements I had for my axle centerline and didn't want to risk having my wheels not centered in the fenders. So I mounted the grille and fenders to be sure I am mounting the Jag in the right spot. No real progress mounting this thing, life is getting in the way right now. But, it sure looks cool with the nose on! [dr
Anyone care to estimate how much more drop I'll get with a 327/700R4 combo?
Not much at all. I replaced the I6 in an old Jag with an SBC and had to cut a coil and a half off the front springs to get it back down to stock height.
Yep. A Jag 6 cylinder weighs as much as a 454 chevy. The V12, as much as a Dodge Cummins Diesel!!!
Any suspension drop [[or gain] you achieve will be a result of mounting the front axle centerline closer or further from the frame... unless you trim or change the springs.
On the plus side, if your going to use your truck as, well, you know... A truck, the stock 6 jag suspension/springs will have some extra weight carrying capacity already built in. If it's just going to be a cruiser, most likely you'll be tweaking the springs before it's all said and done.
There's no motor in there right now. Its gotta drop.
On our '51 ford, we made an upper shock mount out of 1/4" angle iron with a gusset underneath. It's worked well for @ 8 years. Here's a pic:
I can get you the shock # if interested - I have a set waiting to go in my current project.
As for drop - expect 0! We made a complete stub and expected a 2 1/2 to 3" drop with a Chevy 350. We MAYBE got 1/2" drop. It required hours of cutting, chiseling, and swearing to cut it all back apart (had plated the entire thing) and redesign it.
It won't drop at all as the others have said, I had custom springs wound up, its a cheap option.
Tim, what's the width of the cavalier racks? What year? Does it share the tie rod thread with the jag (5/8" x 18 if I remember right at the moment)?
I've narrowed a jag front end for my '34 chevy 4" (and ackerman seems good!) and although I think I could rig up the original with shortened tie rod arms, the mounting flanges will require significant modification. Interested in what else others have come across.
The amazing thing - even after @ 8 years, it still hasn't settled. Those stock springs are STOUT.
Definitely set it up to where you want it the first time!
If you shorten the tie rod arms you will be throwing out ALL the required geometry and introducing "bump steer" .
Can the 1989 xj40 be used if it has the "round" headlights? I believe I read that it can...........can someone please clarify?
I believe everyone is misreading your question.
I understand you want to know how much it will drop from the height it is at now. (without engine in it).
That is hard to answer, but I do understand your question.
is this also an easy swap for a '65 ford f100? I want ifs and this seems straight forward and it looks stronger then a mustang..
I believe everyone understood the question. The springs will compress fuck all under the weight of an SBC/T700.
XJ40 with round headlights is essentially the same as one with rectangular lights. There are different bodyshells in the XJ40 series, but the suspension is the same. The suspension may fit, but you will need to check for yourself. If you can make it fit, it'll be a good unit.
Fingers are crossed as I just bought a complete 89 jag
i just sat a sbc/5spd trans in my 60 dodge truck with the jag ifs and it dropped it down about 1/2". i looking at maybe another 1/2" till i get it all put together with all fluids and and ready to drive. im up inthe air about remounting it or Z'in the frame only on the account of hooking up the steering so i dont have such an angle on the upper joint.
ford5t1, i think it would be a nice swap to your 65.
one thing tho you will most likely have to do is raise the m/t up some and maybe forward a tad to either clear the rack and/or the crossmember itself in most applications depending on how you mount it all to your stock chassis
Bummer. Thanks for raining on my parade ; ) I figured for sure the motor, trans, radiator, .... would sit the truck down a bit. So be it. Not anywhere near as low as I was hoping for, but at least it will drive nice. With the right wheels and tires, it might still look good.
how did ya mount it bolt or welded in (pics)
Did you remove all of the large diameter height adjustment washers that sit, as I remember, under the bottom of the spring?
As an aside, I believe that my 49 F-1 truck dropped more than 1/2" with a sbc/700R4. There are 3 different sets of springs for different years/models, i.e. 6 vs. 12 cylinder. I am questioning it the other way since I think my springs maybe too soft. My springs came out of an early series xj6. I am not driving it yet so the jury is still out. The xj12 and I think the xjs have the stiffest springs. If someone has a set of those I would be interested in buying.
One suggestion I have is to position the crossmember to level across the top/center of the crossmember front to back with the truck basically assembled includeing motor and tran and with the final front and rear tires on the truck before finalizing the mounts or welded in position. This sets the starting point correct for front end adjustments, caster in particular.
I agree. It's been eating at the back of my mind. I'm thinking about finding another rack with the same tie rod arm dimension but a narrower center section. Just by shortening the tie rod arms, it throws off the arc of travel - hence bumpsteer.
Perhaps the saving grace is from the experience we've had with our '51 Ford - and as mentioned above - this set up is STIFF. Under the front of my '34 Chevy, I expect very little movement - perhaps little enough that bump steer wouldn't be horrible. However, if it's something I can sort out and find an appropriate donor now, I'd rather fab it up once.
I should have been a wee bit more specific possibly . You need to draw an imaginary line from the inner pivot on the bottom arm to the inner pivot on the top arm, the pivot point (where the tie rod arm/rack end attaches to the rack) should always be on this imaginary line - hope thats easy enough to follow?
If you do what you mentioned you won't only have bump steer but you will effectivly have front wheels turning in toward each and then out away from each other as you go over bumps ! - won't be very nice/safe I'm sure .
hope that helps .
I had found this diagram - explains it perfectly. Thanks
I'm rubber mounting the Jag IFS. I know you can get more drop by welding it in as tight to the frame as possible, but more than looks, I want a smooth ride. I'm sticking with the Jaguar designed mounting.
I havn't touched the IFS. Once I have everything done on the truck, I will strip it back down for paint. That's when I will replace all the ball joints, bushings, and take a look at the brakes. I plan on painting the different parts of the IFS to give it a better look so it will get stripped apart.
How much drop is achieved by removing the spacers? And is it ok to remove them? I think Langy mentioned to me that the bottom spring plate can be spaced. Thus lowering the bottom spring plate. If anyone has any experience in doing this, please post up. How much you can space it, is it just a matter of longer screws and tube spacers?
Wheels and tires ; ) Yeah right! Might be a bit before I get those.
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