TECH...well sorta... JAG IFS into mid fifties F100

I didn't measure the International axle, but the Ford F1 axle I had in it in the picture above was sitting at 13" from the center of the dust cap to the ground. The Jag measures 16.5"...... 3.5" drop on the F1 axle. Might be a little bit less with the brackets I make, but even if it ends up 3" I will be stoked. A guy who I know on a Harvester site who has a KB1 got a 1.5" or so drop by going to a Ford F1 axle. This thing might actually sit pretty low and have a smooth suspension ; )

 

Hell yes. Those gas caps work well on rods.

Under the gas caps are two gas tanks, one on each side, in the rear quarters. These tanks are bulletproof and they have drains. They would work well in a lowered traditional custom where you do not have much room under the car for a conventional tank.

That headless XJ engine block in your donor vehicle is valuable, as well.

The pedal box with master and booster and pedal, etc. comes out as a unit and is perfectly suited to a rod or custom.

Jaguar, back then, used a modular design philosophy that dated back to their famous LeMans winners of the 50s. While everything works well integrated on an intact Jag, the individual modules will work well in many bespoke (custom) applications.

BTW that front end is rebuildable in about a half hour. The ball joints easily unbolt. Caster is set with shims. Easy easy easy.

And, don't forget that the wheel bearings are a Chevy part number. How easy can it be?

Look for stub axle wear (inner wheel bearing races rotating on the stub axle and causing wear). Easily fixed but now is the time to do it.

The stock Jag brakes will stand your car on its nose during a panic stop.

 

I'm still not convinced on the mileage. Look at the upper ball joints. The right side looks new and the left side looks 100K old. I'm sure the right is a replacement and the left is original. How could it get that bad in 38K????

 

All I did was mist it with some cheap Walmart Power Purple degreaser in the cold rain. Let it sit overnight in the rain and this is what I woke up to. It will need a rebuild. I expected to maybe replace some parts but no big deal. After I get it mounted i planned on tearing it down and cleaning it up, painting some bits. Nice thing is the crossmember potion is cherry. i may not even fool with it, just clean it up.

 

check it out in my 49 f1

 

look ma no bags

 

Did you notch the Jag crossmember to get the frame to sit in them?

 

Subscribed!

 

I'm mocking it up a little and am curious on the right way to level the Jag crossmember. I'm leaving the flat plates that the motor mounts attatch to. I used those to level it front to back and side to side. Then I put my level on the center area of the crossmember to see if it is flat front to back it it isn't. Where am I supposed to level it from?
Also noticed something cool with the rear mounts, The mounting bolts for the rear rubber mounts are offset and can be flipped 180 drgrees. So you can have the width of the mounting bolts set at 28" or 29.5". When I first layed it up under the truck frame I had one of the rubber mounts flipped to the wider setting. I turned it around and at 28" they are exactly in the middle of my frame rails. Very cool.

 

I measured this with a good tape measure. Took my sweet time and feel good about the #s. Only one that was tricky was the front bushing center to center. I'm convinced it's 28 5/8". The Bushing width is accurate at 2 1/4". And the 31" looked dead on. ??? Close enough ; ) The front bushings are removable and I had to re-center them. But it allows a little bit of left/right play when mounting. If you need another measurement, ask and I will update this. Here you go......


<TABLE class=sfinnerposttable><TBODY><TR><TD class="sfpostcontent sfalt">JAG IFS MEASUREMENTS:
Front Bushings Center to Center…………………….28.75" – 28 3/4"
Front Bushings Inside to Inside……………………….26.5" – 26 1/2"
Front Bushings Outside to Outside………………….31"
Front Bushings Width…………………………………..2,25" – 2 1/4"
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rear Bushing Mounting Bolts…………………………28" narrow / 29.5" - 29 1/2" wide
Rear Bushing Mount Holes on X-member…………28.75" – 28 3/4"
Front Bushing Center to Rear Mount Hole………..17.38" – 17 3/8"
Narrowest Spot on X-member by Rear Mount…..32.5" – 32 1/2"
Narrowest Spot on Upper A-Arms/ Rear Side…….33"

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Here are a few HAMB links to Jag front end work.
May be some useful info for you.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=338570

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=346457

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=381774

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=513236

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=392990

 

So can the cast aluminum mount on this be removed and the unit bolted to the firewall? not sure how this will work and I have no experience with brakes other than at the wheels.



Got the rag joint. now I need a Column. I want to get a GM one with a Tilt and shifter. I say GM just because it seems like all the wiring harnesses use the GM plugs. I kinda want a short one so I can come out higher on the firewall and free up more foot room. But, will that get in the way of the brake booster/MC??? Any advice on GM columns?

 

Anyone know if the alternator is a GM type unit that will work on a SBC? Thought maybe if the power steering pump is, maybe the alt would be too. Am I asking too much?

 

Hi Guys, just found this thread. Hi Willard49 (Bill) Nice to hear from you. I remember our e-mails a few year back.

I can vouch for Langy's expertise, without his advice I would never of attempted the swap on my 55F100. I did as he advised and mounted with the original jag mounts.

If anyone wants to see photos of how I did mine then go to my web site and follow this link http://www.uk-hotrods.co.uk/v2/garage_scene/me/page_1.php . I must stress this is my one and only ground up build, so I am no expert and I would say most fabricators can come up with better ways of doing the job than I did. But I must say the Truck rides and sits beautiful. If I can help in anyway just holla!!!

 

No, it is different. Stay with a 10si.

 

Dave,
Good to see you join in on this thread.

Dave, aka Holmsey, created a great build record on his F100. I highly recommend going onto his link above.

Cheers Dave!

 

Dave, aka Holmsey, It took me two days to get through your build pages and watch the video of your truck. Love it. You really did an outstanding job and I love the truck. Good build thread as well. After seeing your build, I might try to use the Jag rear as well but if I do I will keep it in the cage and try that way. The only thing keeping me from saying I for sure am is the gearing. I have a 87' XJ6 so it has the last gearing set of 2.88 or something like that. If I can find the 3.55s, then I will do it.

 

The alternator is Lucas. They are good but in the US they are not as inexpensive to maintain or rebuild as a domestic unit. I regularly used to swap Delcotron alternators onto Jags (6's and V12's). They bolt up with minimum modifications.

 

Use the entire pedal box. Make your ell bracket and brace it well.

 

Anyone know of a good thread showing what needs to be done? It sure would help being able to visualize it.

 

I can never seen a thread like that but maybe I can help you visualize it. In the Jag the pedal box sitrs ona shelf in the firewall. The pedal is inside the passenger compartment and the aluminum housing (from those four vertical mounting studs upwards) is 'outside'. In other words, in the engine compartment.

Since your firewall is probably vertical, you either build a shelf (indentation) for the pedal box to sit on, or mount it so the outside pieces are the master and booster, and the inside pieces are the aluminum box and the pedals. If you do it the latter way, brace it well as the stock design puts all the stress in the horizontal (flat) plane.

BTW it is not hard to modify that pedal box so it includes a slave cylinder for the clutch. Not easy to find a manual Jag pedal box in the States.

IMHO that big 'Batman' brake pedal on the automatic Jag pedal boxes is one of their nicest features.

 

Batman pedal?

 

-Huge-


Check out this thread on Ozrodders. Its about a 36 Chev with Jag front and rear ends and Jag pedal box and steering column. There's not much on the pedal set, but its something.

http://www.ozrodders.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17968

By the way, thanks a lot. You've got me looking at jag parts cars again

 

Later jag front suspension ? I bought 3 xj rear suspensions, one is in my son's 22 dodge bucket, the other 2 are slated to go into the 32 roadster and the 29 nash roadster. I plan on both roadster being fenderless and didn't like the look of the xj 's shocks and A arms. I bought 2 of the later design front suspensions, 89's I think. I plan on making a locating weld fixture then making a new crosmembers and going coil overs or shockwave . I read that the later racks were not as reliable and expensive to repair so I saw the Wiki on hotrodders.com about using the chevy caviliar center link racks and grabbed a couple of them and the p/s pumps.. so far still in the parts gathering phase.

 

Here is some inspiration for your fabricated crossmember.

http://www.barryslc.com.au/gallery.asp?id=3&action=display

 

What's the general opinion on the upper shock mounts? I plan on soft mounting the Jag IFS with the Jag rubber mounts. I've seen it both ways, upper mount fabbed to the frame and upper mount fabbed to the crossmember. The 87' XJ6 has shock mounts on the frame, not the crossmember. It sure looks nicer when they are just part of the crossmember. Don't think I would have to cut up the inner fender skirt either. But, did Jaguar mount the upper shock mount to the frame for a performance reason or was it just the best option for the design? I would rather it look bad and perform great than look great but perform bad.
Can anyone see an advantage of having the shock tied to the frame or to the crossmember? Would the shock tied to the frame dampen the movement of the crossmember to frame? Would hate to have it mounted to the crossmember only to find out the crossmember moves too much and wears out the rubber mounts.

 

Frame mount for me.
Just makes sense.

 

I dont have an answer as to why Jag did it both ways,,, but I've got all these thoughts going thru my head about sprung vs un-sprung weight, and the shocks function as to weather it's supposed to dampen the spring or dampen the body [smooth ride].
Personally, I've never seen a jag crossmember with the shock towers/mounts on the member... Was it on early models? If so, I'd guess they went to the frame mounts in later models for a reason, and I'd do it that way too.
Maybe someone else with more suspension expertise will chime in, so, back to the top with this one

 

I don't think JAG did it both ways.
Just frame mounted.
When transplanted into other cars it gets done both ways.
I can't really see to much difference either way myself.

 

If you leave the original mounting regime (IE, pivot in front, rubber snubbed cradle in the rear), you should mount the shock to the lower control arm and the frame, not the cross member.

The reason is that you have two springs in series here. That rubber snubber is essentially a very stiff progressive rate spring, and if you do not attach the shock to the frame, that spring will be totally undamped, and its motion will oscillate at its natural frequency.

If you attach the shock to the lower control arm and the frame, it will control the motion of both springs.