I'm building an art deco roadster with a hot inline 6. Trying really hard for it not to scream STREET ROD so the 'LOOK' is important to me. Originally I had purchased a GM tilt column but it just doesn't have the right look. I'm going to run turn signals but not with a switch on the column because back when this would have been built (late 30's) turn signals on the column was an afterthought. What I wanted was a straight column...nothing fancy. I'm not even going to have a wheel mounted horn button. I could buy something but everything seems to have quick disconnects or mounting patterns that wouldn't work with the old GM steering wheel I want to use. So I decided to build my own. This is the steering shaft I used. It's out of a late 60's Chevelle I THINK. I'm not using the red part. I think I gave 20 bucks for it. The DD shafting is 3/4" and I had these 3/4 flange bearings in my stash. They're cheap, about 5 bucks each. You'll need 2. The column is made from 2" Electrical Conduit (EMT) from Lowes. $20 for 10'. I have 6' left over. The bearings are a light push fit inside the EMT. The end of the steering column has a inner support where the splines were and I just cut that off. A piece of DD shafting slipped right in and was tacked. I also drilled a 1/4" hole and bolted (with loctite) through the sleeve AND the DD. There is a handy snap ring already on the top end of the shaft so I just cut a sleeve from 3/4" PVC to act as a spacer. The spacers at the top and bottom will keep the shaft centered in the column. I don't want any play. And here it is with the wheel on the column. The bottom end doesn't need a bushing because I made the column exactly the right length so that the bearing fit up against the bottom sleeve of the shaft. I also tack welded the flanges of the bearings to the EMT Here it is on the car at the bottom. And from the top. All in all I've got about $40 in it. If I had had to buy the flange bearings it'd be about $50.
Here is a link to the build thread. Go to the end for the latest glamor shots... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=291413&highlight=art+deco+roadster
Kerry, This steering column is the simplest I have seen in quite a while. Looks GREAT ! Keep up the Great work. Dave
where did you get the bearing?..and what is it? <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="if(typeof(jsCall)=='function'){jsCall();}else{setTimeout('jsCall()',500);}" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
A universal bearing often found for lawnmowers, NAPA stocks them under the SME line. You can get them with a 5/8 ID or the 3/4.
As OldGuard said they are used a lot in lawnmowers. Basically a cheap ball bearing. Here is a link to one place: http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/3-4inch/Kit8542 You could also use a plastic (UHMW or brass bushing). It's not like there is a lot of RPM or load on them. I have a bag of them that I bought at an aircraft swap meet and use in some products I sell. Most lawn mower places should have them. Unless they're like mine where they want the model and serial number for every frigging thing... "DUDE I JUST WANT SOME 3/16 PULL ROPE!"
Electrical conduit is made to bend easily. I'm just asking - will this dent or deform easily? Would something stronger be better - and if so what (muffler pipe?) Just a curiosity question, not raggin' on your build in any way, since I love Deco too.
It certainly appears to be stronger and thicker wall than muffler pipe. In fact I had some muffler pipe but thought it was a bit flimsy so I bought the EMT. I don't know how much I need to work about denting. It certainty isn't going to deform by me kicking it. As far as strength, the wheel end cantilevers about 12" from the dash board. I expect I could swing on it all day without bending it.
Cool - must be much stronger than the stuff I used to play with years ago. There is probably an interior vs. exterior grade of conduit, the stuff I used was wimpy (even bigger diameters could be bent over your knee; just a guess that they probably now use plastic for that usage). Now that I think of it, I've seen the strong exterior conduit that you are using, and yes it's strong, almost as strong as black iron pipe. Good work!
I'll have to admit that when I first saw the title I figured this was going to be one of those tech articles that required a full machine shop and mad skills. And after seeing the sports car body that was enforced a bit but scroll down the page and here is a tech article that almost all of us can put to use and actually do at home with a minimum of tools and equipment. I'm sure that a couple of guys will be digging out the pieces this weekend to build a similar column. Nice job, easy to follow and something that a lot of guys probably thought they couldn't do on their own and get those results.
Another nice thing is you can use an electrical box compression clamp to attach this to your firewall, if the angle can be made to match up. You can put the firewall between the nut and housing or cut that end off and just use the compression side. There are "washers" available too. They are the parts used when an electrician makes the knockout too big and they need to size it back down. This has worked perfectly Model A with a Speedway steering column. I did have to file my ID a little, but this would be a direct fit.
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