[FONT="]One thing that Minnesota winters are good for is working out in your garage with the radio blasting and the heater on high. With that said, this years winter project was a full front suspension rebuild and disk brake upgrade. Along with that came all new brake components front to back with a dual master cylinder in between. This write up is for 1949 to 1954 Chevy sedans but can easily be adapted just about any vehicle with an under floor master cylinder. Now there are plenty of kits out there and lots of posts about how people have built new master cylinder brackets but I decided that tech write up was in order. Why buy something when you can make it for twice the price right? Its all about having fun in the garage. Lets get started... Materials Needed: 3/16 Sheet Steel 1 ID round tube 1 Square Tube 3/8 Rod End (McMaster Carr 60645K341) ¾ID 1OD Brass Bushings (2) (McMaster Carr 6391K269) 3/8x1.5 bolt (2) 3/8x2 bolt 3/8x4 bolt 3/8 Castle nut 3/8 washer (4) 3/8 lock washer (2) 3/8 nut (4) Cotter pin ¼-20 Grease zerk ¼x3/4 bolt (2) ¼ lock washer (2) ¼ nuts (3) Master Cylinder (Napa M1922, 1969 Corvette) Tools Needed: Welder Grinder or jigsaw Drill 3/8 drill bit ¼ drill bit 1 hole saw 2 hole saw Hack saw Metal File Instructions: Start by cutting out the templates included at the end of the pdf file. Trace each out on you sheet of steel and use a cutoff wheel on your grinder or a metal blade for your jig saw to get them cut out. If you're lucky enough to have access to a plasma table, there are also .dxf files available. After your plates are cut out, drill the 3/8s holes and 2 hole for the master cylinder as well as mounting and clearance holes in the base plate. Take the base plate and weld the two 3/8 nuts to one side. Using a square or clamps, weld the master cylinder mounting plate to the base. Finally, weld the side plates to the base trying to keep them as square as possible. Remember to keep your heat down so you don't have a bunch of weld distortion. Also remember to leave a skip weld next to the mounting holes for the two 3/8 master cylinder mounting bolts. Next, cut your round steel tube into two 1.85" long sections. Drill a ¼" hole in the center of each going through only one of the walls. With the holes drilled, lay each tube next to each other on a flat surface with the holes pointing upward at a 15 degree angle. Weld the tubes together by running a bead on each side of the holes as well as the full length on the other side. These holes will be the grease passage for the pivot. With the pivot portion and main mounting structure welded up, the hardest part is left. Using the temple for the square tube, trace and cut your tube. With your welded tubes laying on a flat surface, position the square tube on top so the angle cut end makes a 14 degree angle to horizontal and weld all around to the round tubes. Once the pivot tubes are welded to the square tube, drill another ¼” hole in each tube positioned in the center when looking at it left to right. These will be the holes that bolts go through to retain the pedal arm pivots. At this point, don't weld the ¼" nuts on just yet. Finally, tack weld the square tube to the main assembly by aligning the square in the center of the place and so the lower pivot holes is centered 3.5" off the base. This distance will allow the pushrod to align correctly left to right with the master cylinder as well as position the pedal pivots in the correct factory location. The center of the lower pivot tube should be 3.5" off the base mounting surface to ensure that there is no binding of the pushrod.