EDIT!, I made some tack welds on Galvanized steel and it has offended some people. If you are afraid of it, wear a respirator or spend more money on mild steel. With that said, here's my entry for the latest Tech Week. I did this all with... 1) Some weldable steel tubing 2) A cheap harbor freight flux-core welder 3) Some sheetmetal 4) a drawing utensil 5) paper 6) bathroom paneling 7) a jig saw 8) an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel on it 9) a steel 2X4 10) some sheetmetal screws 11) very little body filler I posted back in April about how to disassemble the rear bed panel on a 57-60 F100. I'm not going to rehash the disassembly here, just give a little background. This is what I started with. Nothing too eye-popping, but one afternoon, I was poking around a bit and noticed a tiny crack forming. "Bondo!", I thought. So, like a scabbed over wound, I started picking at it only to find this. "Holy rusted metal Batman! I got to looking at the curvature of the bed panel. Let's look again... Notice all of the different radii I'm dealing with, not to mention, the curve from the flat under the taillight, to the bedside. Where to start? First , I pulled out my trusty piece of scrap paper and a crayon from my kids art box. I held the paper parallel to the ground and made a mark where the curve started and another where the curve ended. I then measured the distance between the two marks and found it to be, well I don't remember what I found it to be. I went to Summit Racing's website and ordered me one of these... A nice J-bend in the diameter I needed. That's the first one I ordered. Remember that saying, "measure twice"? Well, I measured once and had to buy two. I blame it on the frosty beverages. I also went to Autozone and bought a cheap piece of galvanized exhaust tubing to make a template from. Now this is where the fun begins. I had some left over panel board from a bathroom remodel laying around. I put it up against the back of the bed and traced the contour of the bed side onto the board. I then used some more paper and what was left of the original panel... ...to finish the outline on the panelboard. Once I was satisfied with the outline, I cut it out with the jigsaw. Now we're ready to cut some metal. Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get a steel 2X4. A 10 foot long stud was around 5 bucks if I remember right. Cut it into three equal lengths. FYI, if you have a welding table, you probably don't need this. Tack weld the three pieces together and you've just made yourself a super cheap welding platform. Trace the outline of the panelboard onto the welding platform. You've now created a jig to make the new section from. Take some flat sheetmetal and trace the outline of the lower section of the panel onto it. Draw another line about a half inch in from the original line and cut it out. This will eventually be the flange of your new panel section. Using sheetmetal screws, attach what's left of the original panel and the flange pieces to your jig. Now you want to make a template piece from the exhaust tubing. Cut the tubing in half, clamp it to your workbench, and make a bunch of slices almost all the way through the piece. After trying a few times, I found that in my case, I needed 4 cuts about an inch apart and 9 cuts about a half inch apart. Once you are satisfied with your template, it's time to make the final pieces. Cut the weldable steel tubing into quarters, transfer the cuts from the template piece to the final pieces, and make the cuts. Tack the new pieces to the original panel and to the flange pieces following the contour of the flange pieces. Only tack on the outside here. Once everything is stable, remove the screws and weld everything solid from the inside to limit the amount of grinding needed. Once the perimeter of the panel is structurally sound, take this time to test fit the panel to see that everything lines up correctly. Now you can remove the panel and trace the opening from the backside onto a piece of sheetmetal. Cut out the panel and tack it into place. Pie cut a couple small pieces of steel and tack them into the corners. Once you're happy, weld everything solid. Now's time for some body filler. I'm no professional body man, so I'm completely happy with a skim coat over what was in there to start. Notice in the above picture that i used the taillight screw holes to fasten the panel to a wooden 2X4 that I clamped to my workbench. This makes it considerably easier to work the body filler. Add some primer... And there you go. The money shot. When it was all done, I didn't even need the j-bend. I was able to do this all with one of the straight legs of the bend. Save yourself some cash and get straight tubing instead of a j-bend.