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TECH WEEK Jag XJ6 IFS into F100

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mattilac, Mar 16, 2011.

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  1. Mattilac
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,148

    Mattilac
    Member

    The oil pan clearance is dead-on perfect. A hair under two inches between the pan and crossmember. And because of the way the stock pan is shaped, it kinda conforms to the shape of the crossmember. I am very happy that it worked out so well. I have a picture to post soon.

    The cost of the rebuild was just over $1000. However, I bought the stuff from a specialty Jag dealer so obviously that made it more expensive. I priced out a complete rebuild from RockAuto, and it was less than half of that cost.

    So I would say you could do this swap for about $500 and not cut any corners. Of course, this value doesn't include other parts like a master cylinder, steering u-joints, or new wheels you may want to buy.
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2011
  2. Very nice. Its good to see some other options besides a crown vic setup.
     
  3. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,493

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    Big Thumbs up!
    Seems like you did a great job.
     
  4. Mattilac
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,148

    Mattilac
    Member

    Not the best angle but the clearances are perfect.

    Front >>
    [​IMG]
     
  5. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,911

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Extreemly well done tech! I am sure I will be doing this swap in the near future and your tech is going to help a lot - thank you!
     
  6. Fantastic post! Got me keen to try this on my 1950 Buick sedanette (when it comes in soon). Great pics, great write up, and great follow up info. Just wondered whether the Daimler is the same as the jag? Anyone know???
     
  7. Triggerman
    Joined: Nov 18, 2006
    Posts: 578

    Triggerman
    Member
    from NorCal

    Impressive that you got it done in a month. I guess that's what youth and enthusiasm will do. Good for you, you must be really enjoying driving the truck now.
     
  8. junkyardbuilder
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 3

    junkyardbuilder
    Member
    from kentucky

    thanks for a great post . going to to put a 74 jag under my 69 f100 wish me luck lol
     
  9. Mattilac
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,148

    Mattilac
    Member

    Weeeeell, it's been just about a year since the Jag front end went under the truck. Several people have been PMing me with questions and such, so I thought I would add some notes to this thread to keep all the info consolidated.
    ___

    Thoughts:

    The shock mounts have held up great so far. I've driven the truck hard, and there are no signs of fatigue at the weld joints. Not that they still cannot break; I just think they would've by now if it was an inherently poor design. Much of the shock force is in the upward direction anyway, so it isn't really trying to tear the mount away from the crossmember. That means less critical force on my beginner welds. ✔

    The XJ6 springs are a touch too stiff for the weight of the F100. It corners like a frickin beast, but the ride can be jarring over really bumpy roads. Its still light years ahead of the straight axle, but I plan to look into alternative lower rated springs.

    Speaking of cornering, the steering definitely takes some effort. I've concluded its actually a bit tougher than the stock Ford steering, but at a much quicker ratio. Remember though, I'm not running a power steering pump- just straight up manual steering a power rack around. Its kinda lame but I kinda like it. At least that's what I keep telling myself. :rolleyes: I guess I'm too lazy to put a pump on it. Honestly, if your used to good ol Popeye steering, you can run the Jag rack without a pump and enjoy the fast turning ratio. Or just install a pump!

    Manual disc brakes on the other hand feel fantastic. Because the Jag calipers are so big, they don't really need power assist unless you want a super light pedal. I think coupling them with the 15/16" bore master cylinder was the ticket. The truck stops beautifully.

    Lastly, if your planning to install your own Jag IFS, make sure you factor in enough caster into the angle of your crossmember. Don't count on being able to shim the upper arms enough to make up for poor crossmember positioning. If you're doing an F100 like mine, I'll tell you right now that with the crossmember sitting squarely on the frame as I have it, you will get away with just enough caster. If you don't run as much rake as I do, that'll help too.

    That's all I can think of for now.
     
    hershambob likes this.
  10. 4msfam
    Joined: Jun 25, 2011
    Posts: 69

    4msfam
    Member

    Great post and thread, thanks for the update. I have this bookmarked for my future buildup. Just wondering.. what kind of welder did you use? Looks like a Hobart... was it a Mig or flux core? 110 volt?

    Did you do anything else to your truck? Looks great!
    Thx!
     
  11. Orn
    Joined: Jul 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,040

    Orn
    Member

    Very nice work an informative too with all the nice pics and text.
    I’m working with the same setup in my 47 Olds right now but still have some more work to do. The Olds frame needs a little more work because it’s to wide for the Jag but worth it anyway I guess (I hope...)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Mattilac
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,148

    Mattilac
    Member

    4msfam, its a Hobart 187. I really ought to get a tank for it...
     
  13. 4msfam
    Joined: Jun 25, 2011
    Posts: 69

    4msfam
    Member

    Orn, that's a beautiful engine / frame work you did. I actually think that's the first time I've seen someone use the mounts on the crossmember for the engine.

    Matt - thanks!
    Marc
     
  14. oldcarfart
    Joined: Apr 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,437

    oldcarfart
    Member

    NICE!!!! I was amazed how much it looks like my 1984 (C4) corvette clip that's headed towards my '53 chevy pickup. I liked your spring compressor solution!
     
  15. dawford
    Joined: Apr 25, 2010
    Posts: 499

    dawford
    Member

    matt2491,

    If you put a 17" steering wheel back on you will find that it will greatly reduce the turning effort.

    Great work and fast execution.

    Dick :) :) :)
    .
     
  16. hellbilly1932
    Joined: Feb 15, 2007
    Posts: 74

    hellbilly1932
    Member
    from San Diego

    This is just what I was looking for! Just picked up a $100 XJ6 front end to put in my '59 F100. I was wondering if anyone had done this while still running the stock 292 and three speed. Did you retain the 3-on the-tree setup? and you just needed one steering u-joint correct?
     
  17. exactly what I was going to write, put the stock wheel back on and see whats up then. might be surprised.

     
  18. hershambob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,317

    hershambob
    Member

    i think the clip you need goes up to about 86 maybe 87,steve
     
  19. hellbilly1932
    Joined: Feb 15, 2007
    Posts: 74

    hellbilly1932
    Member
    from San Diego

    Here's mine I just finished up, using this thread as my guide.

    [​IMG]

    Had to trim the road draft tube about 1.5 inches and put a 3/8" spacer between the frame and crossmember to get enough clearance between the rack and the oilpan. Had to lose the 3 on the tree and convert to floor shift in order to connect the steering column.
     
  20. Mattilac
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,148

    Mattilac
    Member

    Lookin pretty good. Did you leave any of the shims under the springs or? I think it would look even better with the front a little lower than the back, just a touch.
     
  21. Dan in Pasadena
    Joined: Sep 11, 2009
    Posts: 851

    Dan in Pasadena
    Member

    Great write up. Wonder how wide the frame is on my '55.2 Chevy truck?

    What media did you use in your sandblaster? If you KBS'd any parts without sandblasting how did you prep them and have they held up as well?

    You allowed for four studs but only used three?

    Sorry for all the questions.
     
  22. hellbilly1932
    Joined: Feb 15, 2007
    Posts: 74

    hellbilly1932
    Member
    from San Diego

    I like the back lower than the front. I will be adding airbags to the front eventually. The rear is bagged because I still work this truck.
     
  23. Dan in Pasadena
    Joined: Sep 11, 2009
    Posts: 851

    Dan in Pasadena
    Member

    Bump for my questions. Hoping Matt will answer.
     
  24. Mattilac
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,148

    Mattilac
    Member

    Dan,

    I got some stuff called "black beauty" sold at my local store. I would say its medium grit media. It knocked the old paint/rust off real quick. KBS sells a three-part system that will prep anything you didn't get down to bare metal. It works well and is holding up great.

    As for the studs, that fourth hole is for a pass through bolt that I could access with the crossmember in place. The other three had to be studs since the bolt heads would be shrouded by the crossmember.

    Hope that helps.
     
  25. Dan in Pasadena
    Joined: Sep 11, 2009
    Posts: 851

    Dan in Pasadena
    Member

    Thanks Matt,

    I've heard of Black Beauty before but admit I don't know where to buy it. I'll do a search. Did you in fact use a small siphon feed unit cause it kinda looks like it from the one picture of the gun?

    I already have a quart of KBS in black but I didn't buy the three part package. Do you think it's that important or will something else work for the prep?
     
  26. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,559

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    They sell i there at Northern Tools, it's coal slag.
     
  27. Dan in Pasadena
    Joined: Sep 11, 2009
    Posts: 851

    Dan in Pasadena
    Member

    Ok, looked it up and about $20 for 50lbs. Not sure how far that will go done outside with trying to "coral" it and reuse it. Someone said it is available a lot cheaper like $10 for 100lb bag....is that impossibly cheap? Maybe only in the East where coal is used??
     
  28. Mattilac
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,148

    Mattilac
    Member

    Yea I got the stuff for about $17 per 100lbs bag at a nearby warehouse. The KBS stuff really works the best if you use it with their other two parts. The first step degreases the part, the second step etches it so its prepped for RustSeal, then the third part is the actual paint. I've used RustSeal over stuff that wasn't properly prepped and it worked just fine too.

    And yes I did use a small siphon feed gun but also had a blasting cabinet to use as well.
     
  29. jclars
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 39

    jclars
    Member
    from Lynden, WA

    Hi Matt - Glad to see this thread is still active. Since bookmarking your post, I have picked up a 79 Jag XJ6 (complete). I am still debating how to mount (hard or soft). Mine will be going in a 56 F100, so I dont know if it is relative or not, but how much drop did you attain with your install?

    I have also picked up a 89 T-bird SC for using the IRS, but with a bracket kit that is available, it will drop it 5". I am wanting just a slight rake at the front, but havent found data about the amount of drop one gets from the Jag IFS.

    Matt - your write up and pictoral are impressive. Your writing is piece of workmanship as well.

    John L.
     
  30. Hooligan63
    Joined: Mar 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,343

    Hooligan63
    Member

    I have three questions about this.
    1: Can you run air ride on the Jag front?
    2: Will this accept the 300 L6?
    3: Is this a swap that will work for the '66 F100 also?
     
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