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Tech tip spade connectors

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by boooooob, Jan 6, 2013.

  1. boooooob
    Joined: Sep 14, 2012
    Posts: 38

    boooooob
    Member

    Don't know how many of you have put on female spade connectors 1/4" or others, but I hate insulated connectors.....make your own much better.....

    If they do not have a barrel over the crimp portion they ain't worth a shit. If you go and buy some with red/blue or yellow insulators , pull the insulator off, you will usually find a very thin brass tin plated split connector...not brazed don't think any are, but ring terminals are usually copper tin plate and much thicker so they do well uninsulated.


    I have an old Thomas&Betts wt-111-m uninsulated crimper (made in USA long time ago), I have had very good luck with buying a piece of thin brass tube that will just fit over the wire input crimp area,,, Westlakes, Lowes, Menards, etc and taking a tubing cutter and cut a 3/8" to 1/2" piece, slip it on and crimp, you could even give it a crimp on the insulation portion if you want, if you cut your tube that long.

    Heat shrink over the entire terminal (it will be completely insulated and look nice), HEAT GUN, lighters will work but if you are not using black will usually look like shit when done.


    If you give one of these the pull test, the wire or the terminal will break before pull out. 3M makes some of the best female spades IMO.....

    I also really hate electrical tape:eek:




    boooooob:):D
     
    Truckdoctor Andy likes this.
  2. A series of photos to accompany the tip would be helpful. HRP
     
    TagMan and Truck64 like this.
  3. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,878

    brokenspoke
    Member

    ^^^^^^what he said
     
  4. RichG
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,917

    RichG
    Member

    x's 3, please post pic.
     

  5. Truckedup
    Joined: Jul 25, 2006
    Posts: 3,864

    Truckedup
    Member

    He's reinforcing the crimp with a piece of copper tubing .....A good idea...Or don't buy the cheap shit connectors....
     
  6. jcs64
    Joined: Apr 25, 2005
    Posts: 528

    jcs64
    Member

    I always cut off the plastic insulator and then solder the wire in.

    seems easier and cheaper than cutting copper tubing?

    jeff
     
    TagMan likes this.
  7. I do the same thing Jeff, then melt a piece of heat shrink where the plastic crimp collar was. It looks far neater.

     
    nochop likes this.
  8. Hey cut the guy some slack will ya!

    After all, he's a boooooob! :D
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  9. repairmanrod
    Joined: Jan 6, 2007
    Posts: 77

    repairmanrod
    Member
    from colorado

    BOOOOOOB!!!! I totally agree with your entire thread..... I hate electrical tape. I have an old AMP USA made crimper that i use. I would rather solder and heat shrink everything though!

    Rod
     
  10. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,758

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    I buy the cheap Harry homeowner crimp on terminals and just use a set of dikes to cut off the ugly plastic insulators before crimping and use heat shrink once installed.
     
  11. I get the HD terminals with out insulation.
    You need to get these at a real supply house though, HDepot or RShack doesn't count.
     
  12. RichG
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,917

    RichG
    Member

    Thomas and Betts makes good stuff, but honestly, the cheap ones work quite well if crimped properly. Removing the plastic and using heat shrink is a must.
     
    Hudson31 likes this.
  13. Cantstop
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 239

    Cantstop
    Member

    uninsulated barrels, solder and good shrink tube. A friends dad used to work for the telephone company up here and would give me connectors. He had barrels and shrink tube that had a rubber cement like substance coating the inside. When you shrunk the ends the glue melted, that stuff was waterproof when you were done. I've never been able to find them since.
     
  14. I realize there are several different ways to achieve the same results, in my initial reply my thought was that a few good images would help in getting his method across,plain and simple.

    There is more impact with a thread such as this with photographic accompaniment. HRP
     
  15. RichG
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,917

    RichG
    Member

    I've used IDEAL brand connectors that do what you say, stop at an electrical supply house and check with them, I'm sure they can hook you up with what you're looking for. PLATT is a great place if you have one local to you.
     
  16. That stuff is called "dual wall" heatshrink. I bought some today at an electronics supply store. If you want to block off an unused wire, you put a little bit of this stuff on (a bit longer than the end of the wire), heat it and squeeze the end together with a pair of pliers , and you end up with a waterproof end cap.
     
  17. scrappybunch
    Joined: Nov 16, 2011
    Posts: 315

    scrappybunch
    Member
    from nj

    Last edited: Jan 7, 2013
  18. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 5,767

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Uninsulated is part of the key, but how you crimp, and which way you put the tool on is a big problem! Most people use those crimpers that simply flatten the barrel. Those barely hold, and even when done properly they will fail.
    I use Stakon uninsulated style crimpers like these:
    [​IMG]
    If you use this tool the crimp will be a very strong crimp, but you need to examine the barrel closely. The connectors always have a split on one side, so the indent on the tool needs to be opposite the split, or the indenter will simply open the barrel, not indent it.
    By using the right tool, the right connector, and keeping the tool clocked correctly, you'll have very few (if any) failures.
     
    Hnstray likes this.

  19. Today, 3 out of every 4 people are visual learners (thank you TV and video games)... :D
     
  20. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,758

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yep, I use Del City or Waytek. I buy a pack of 100 or so of each terminal or connector I think I'll need. I have quite a collection now.

    I've found many different cool "old-time" type terminals at these places as well. I bought flag terminals, which you won't find at AutoZone or RadioShack, but look neat on certain locations in a traditional car. Get your cloth covered wire from Rhode Island Wire or Brillman, some heat shrink, and go to town.
     
  21. boooooob
    Joined: Sep 14, 2012
    Posts: 38

    boooooob
    Member

    That is my tool (best I ever had) and you are absolutely correct about the split, will get some pictures soon, the brass tube will make these thin connectors very strong and they cannot split open... sorry life is calling, it's Monday and I got transmission problems on my POS 95 Astro van....

    boooooob:D:D
     
  22. boooooob
    Joined: Sep 14, 2012
    Posts: 38

    boooooob
    Member

    Not real good but I think you will get the picture. Chipper bit is to ream the tube after cut, it will mash in a bit......have to open to fit the terminal...best to do it on the long tube before cut....then put the cut end to the wire side.....this makes a very strong crimp joint..

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    boooooob:)
     
    bedwards and LTM75110 like this.
  23. 3onthetree3
    Joined: Jul 12, 2008
    Posts: 267

    3onthetree3
    Member
    from Saugerties


    Me too, but if he has some pics, maybe it looks cool. Sounds like it looks that same as mine, but has copper underneath?:confused:
     
  24. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,758

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I don't mean to put down your passion (I guess I am anyway), but there's no way I'd go to all that work when I could order the proper terminals and have them the next day. Then the end of the wire wouldn't be so bulky either.
     
  25. boooooob
    Joined: Sep 14, 2012
    Posts: 38

    boooooob
    Member

    May I ask what the proper terminals are, (and what is all that work, cut tube, pull off insulator, crimp, heatshrink) that was a 12-10 terminal and it is smaller then the BS insulator that came with it, and no there is no copper in any of these type connectors I have ever seen they are split tin plated brass and pretty much BS, unless you go into the OEM type which are usually unplated brass and have wire and insulation crimp, and pay a lot for a crimper, I will put one of these up against your "proper" terminals any day..plus I can put any color heat shrink I want.... Please post a pic of a proper connector.....Thank you and more importantly the crimper you use..



    boooooob:)
     
    Cirilian likes this.
  26. ems customer service
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 2,561

    ems customer service
    Member

    on amazon

    http://www.amazon.com/DUAL-WALL-HEAT-SHRINK-KIT/dp/B001D9X8AQ

    it sounds like good stuff so i gonna order some
     
  27. RidgeRunner
    Joined: Feb 9, 2007
    Posts: 866

    RidgeRunner
    Member
    from Western MA

    Anybody ever try any of the "liquid electrical tape" to seal up terminal crimps? If so, what brand and how well did it work for how long?

    Ed
     
  28. yaidunno
    Joined: Apr 26, 2012
    Posts: 46

    yaidunno
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Here are proper non insulated terminals. Note the two areas of crimp. The tall-narrow area will crimp the insulation while the short-longer part will crimp the striped portion of wire:

    [​IMG]

    This is the crimper i have. It has multiple sets of dies for different terminal types:
    [​IMG]
     
    pat59 likes this.
  29. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,758

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

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