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TECH....Ten homemade hot rod shop tools.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kiwi Kev, Mar 17, 2007.

  1. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,348


    GREEEEAAATTT friggin' TECH!!! Thanks Kev!! I love RR track! Have a nice little anvil from track and it has survived years of abuse!! Much nicer than anything someone could get at China Freight!

    Thanks for sharin'!!
  2. 1320stang
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 166

    from Edmond, OK

    I just picked up a piece of RR track not a week ago, had the same idea to use as an anvil, thought I was being original. :)
  3. I'm sure they've been making them since before I was born.
  4. kustomkat
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 554


    Great ideas, thanks for the great ideas...
  5. PRoz
    Joined: Dec 6, 2002
    Posts: 240


  6. zibo
    Joined: Mar 17, 2002
    Posts: 2,346

    from dago ca


    screw acme - KKLBT

  7. von Dyck
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 678

    von Dyck

    Yes, re-arching the main leaf in the opposite direction will effectively reverse the eyes. Works great on Model A front main leaf.
    Instead of using the BFH, use your hydraulic shop press. Some experimentation on a scrap leaf spring is needed. Press a little at a time every inch and a half along the full length of the leaf to get the desired curve. Use the same pressure for each press. Hand operated seems to work better than electric - personal preference. Also, stay away from pressing in the center-bolt area. Pressing here will likely crack the spring leaf. Curve each subsequently shorter leaf slightly more than the previous longer leaf. The assembled spring will have the OEM springiness restored. I've even done a pair of Chevy II mono-leafs with excelent results.
    Joined: May 13, 2002
    Posts: 913

    Alliance Vendor

    kevin rules. He has helped me so many times over the years. He has a huge old magazine collection for ideas.. He has files of different models of cool built cars cut out of magazines. Very neat stuff

    He is quick and good at making anything go together
    great post kev
  9. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,359

    from Mayberry

    good stuff wiley--where the crap you finding rr track? I think of of the 38 trains that blow through my town daily would miss it if I acquired an easily locatable piece.

    thumbs up on the inginuity
  10. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,205


    No offense to anyone, but THIS post should have been the TECH winner - HANDS DOWN.
    Great Stuff.
  11. Nominal
    Joined: Jun 9, 2005
    Posts: 160


    Was searching for this thread, and thought it was well worth a bump.
  12. willymakeit
    Joined: Apr 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,326


    Keep the tips coming. I love looking at and making some of this stuff.
  13. Winner Winner Chicken dinner
  14. Kan Kustom
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 2,649

    Kan Kustom

    I love the ACME touch on the anvil!
  15. chevy3755
    Joined: Feb 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,037


    thanks Kiwi........
  16. rockable
    Joined: Dec 21, 2009
    Posts: 3,118


    I'm going to make me one of those toe gauges!
  17. Must be a lot of train track missing in California to make some of those tools.....:)
  18. johnybsic
    Joined: Oct 8, 2009
    Posts: 612

    from las vegas

    This is awsome!
    Killer idea. you should see the cool ovals and eggs i make. :D

  19. Hi-Flying
    Joined: Jun 15, 2011
    Posts: 179


    Thanks for the information. I have a old RR anvil past down from my dad.
  20. KenHMT
    Joined: Oct 3, 2012
    Posts: 9



    Added to the database:

  21. Ed ke6bnl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2001
    Posts: 181

    Ed ke6bnl

    if this is used on an A arm vehicle will lifting the vehicle off the ground affect the readings?
  22. revkev6
    Joined: Jun 13, 2006
    Posts: 3,351

    from ma

    you should ALWAYS measure toe on the ground.
  23. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,636


    great post kev you sure excell at creative craftiness!
  24. 40StudeDude
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 9,435


    Damn, a seven year old post gets resurrected again for tech week...!!! Nice...

  25. Merlin
    Joined: Apr 9, 2005
    Posts: 2,546

    from Inman, SC

    So will I.;)

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
  26. 26hotrod
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 917

    from landis n c

    Love this kind of stuff. For sheet metal break I use 2 pieces of angle iron in my vice jaws with the angle on the jaws with the metal between the angle iron. then I bend the metal how I want it. Works good on small stuff. I got the idea from an old HOTROD mag tech article years ago. Thanks again.................
  27. Pete1
    Joined: Aug 23, 2004
    Posts: 1,825

    from Wa.

    To the people that were looking for pieces of rail to make anvils out of, try your search engine like Google. I came up with enough answers to keep me busy reading for an hour.
    Different sizes of rail have different heat treats. If you have a choice, get main line rail like 132 or 156. That's the weight for 3 feet.
  28. k9racer
    Joined: Jan 20, 2003
    Posts: 3,091


    Sorry I can not post photos but for a 3 rd hand when welding something that cannot be easly clamped. I use a upper control arm and the ball joint will hold the peace in place while welding.
  29. JMF TAG
    Joined: Sep 16, 2015
    Posts: 8


    Attached is a photo of a simpler toe stick that made while working for an alignment shop that used no computers. They used chalk sourced from a company that sold railroad supplies to give something to lay the scribe line into. I just use sidewalk chalk now. The yellow ended device has a slash tip figuring it would be more precise since the pencil tip could blunt. I made three of the second style 2007 to sell while I was getting my own shop rolling.

    The important changes over what that shop was using include laying the cross bar right on the feet so it would work under really low cars. Cutting the feet short enough to slide under really low cars. The pointer is taller than theirs to get closer to axle height. And, the slider tubes on the pointers themselves are long enough to help keep them from tipping when you tighten the set screw. Also, putting the set screws on the top means they can only tilt the pointers one direction for more stable readings.


    PS, yes, this is posted in two threads. It relates to both topics, so here it is.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 2, 2016
  30. Hammer-Formed Floorboards:

    I made a cardboard template of each floorboard piece, then a male buck from 1/2" MDF; slightly smaller than the final floorboard size to allow for flange thickness.

    ... and temporarily screwed & clamped 18 ga. sheet metal to the buck with a bit over 1/2" overlap on each side.

    The buck's slots are for my "caveman bead roller"; I pounded a 1/4" diameter steel rod against the metal above each slot until it deformed into a nice straight stiffening bead. :eek:
    20171221_173718-1.jpg 20171221_174801-1.jpg

    ...then clamped each edge with an angle iron brace (an old bed frame) and gently pounded over a 90* flange.

    Finally, the flanges were trimmed and screw holes welded shut.

    Right now, all the pieces are just press-fit into place. I'll plug-weld them to the existing subrails & cross-rails after all undercarriage work is complete.
    20171222_190545-1.jpg 20180214_204715-1.jpg

    Wife weight-tested with no deflection. :p 20180214_210327-1-1.jpg
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2018

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