So, I am pretty sure the fellas I have had building my Rear Ends for the last 5 years are not only schiesters, but thier family tree looks like a telephone pole. Being a reasonably intellignet Mammal with opposable thumbs, I figure I could learn to build them my damn self. ( really...if these guys can build them...it CAN'T be that tough.) I deal primarily with G.M. and Ford rear ends. ( I figure Dodges can't be too terribly different from a and b) so my question to You, My friends is this. Who makes the most comprehensive book, and where do I get it? when you followed the directions in said book, what happened, and finally, if it is (for example) a book on ford differential rebuilding, who makes one for Chevy, and Vice versa. Party on, Wayne...
I learned by watching the old host of Trucks on TV, Stacy David...it would be nice to have a reference book with multiple styles of diffs covered...who's got the answer?
At the peril of my membership in the He Man Woman Haters Club, I read the directions. The best source I have found is the detailed instructions that accompany a new gear set. Richmond, in particular, has great instructions and they are appropriate to each type of axle assembly. I used to find these on the internet at will, but haven't looked in some time. They also include "tips" to get around the sticky little details and suggest alternatives to hi-buck tools when available. K-Ching! $.02 Edit: LUX! Call Cam for that stuff!
I SECOND the Richmond reccomendation. When it MATTERS (like when I have to sit on the rear axle to drive) I print out their instructions and follow them. YMMV
It's really not terribly difficult...if you can do engine or transmission work (correctly, that is), you can do this. Since I know you've done those, this should be no problem. There are two different types of automotive light-duty rear ends...the Hotchkiss type, like the Ford 9", where the "pumpkin" drops out, and the Salisbury type, like the Ford 8.8" or Chevrolet 12-bolt. The first type is by far the easiest, for a number of reasons, so I would suggest starting with one of them. To be perfectly honest, I would suggest getting a GOOD shop manual, like the appropriate Helms, or a Chilton's; (which I'd bet you already have), covering '57-up; get a cheap Ford 9" center section out of the boneyard (buy a 2.80 open or something, they are still cheap), and start on "disassembly". Between the manual, the new gearset instructions, and the actual parts, it will become clear....trust me. Oh, you'll screw up a couple of times...put the wrong shims in, or go the wrong direction...but it's not critical. At the worst, you'll screw up a crush sleeve or something, no big deal. Salisbury types, like Danas, often require a case spreader, which you can actually fab up yourself. If you plan to do them often, you might want to make or buy a set of "test" bearings so's you don't have to press good bearings on & off a few times while you get the side shims right. You CAN do this...I can screw just about anything up, and I still manage to do it. P.S. When you set a rear axle up, you are basically doing two things:...A) you are moving the carrier from side to side in the housing/center section, (in other words moving the ring gear closer to, or farther away from, the pinion, in terms of tooth "depth"); B) and moving the pinion forward, or back, in relation to the ring gear. Since the teeth are curved, you have to set both, and they affect each other. Before you start, hold the ring gear in one hand, and the pinion in the other....try moving the two according to A & B. Sounds goofy, but if you can keep this in mind, you will understand how they interact, and what different shims will do. One source: http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=6660
here are some manual pages for GMs http://selectric.org/manuals/rearend/index.html here are some for Fords http://selectric.org/manuals/rearend/indexford.html bottom of both pages has a pdf file that has a good general how-to.
Buy the $15 richmond video on how to set up a gear. Mine's VHS and came with a gear but pretty sure it's on DVD and still available seperate. Covers ford and chevy. Piece of cast iron water pipe a foot longer than the rear removes the outer bearings by shooting thru from the opposite side. Engine builder rifle brushes will clean out lube passages. $129 press will do all the pushing you need. Removing pressed bearings is another story, I typically use the cut & chisel method so if I hit the pinion setup wrong it costs a bearing. You can machine setup bearings but I don't do it often enough to justify that. Big ass impact wrench for pinion nuts, although hipo should use a hard spacer instead. that's whatcha need, I was in your shoes 5 axles ago and took the plunge. Totally worth it, good luck
I have actually "pulled off" a couple of rear end rebuilds by pure, unadulterated Luck and the watchful eye of some kick ass "older" fellas ...but again, I have slept since then and want to get it in print. I will call richmond and see if they are willing to sell me the appropriate directions...which shouldn't be real tough as they are who i will be buying my parts from. I was just wondering who makes the "how to build a small block chevy by Smokey Yunik" version of the rear end.
Another good thing to invest in is Plasti-gage and that yellow ring and pinion paint, I forget what it's called...also a GOOD (not cheap chinese crap) dial gage and magnetic base...they'll come in handy for engine building too...
don`t ask gram phares . the first thing he wants is lipstick ? now that`s drag racing I understand it as getting the gears to rub in there centers and then getting the slop out .with a dial indicator .
The old timer Drag racer that taught me how to do them. Taught me to pattern it slightly to the inside. His reason was that under power The casing flexes and the pinion walks to the outside of the gear, which is weaker
Same way it was explained to me, from a stop the pinion wants to thrust foward into the large pinion bearing.Deflection and inherent design throws the foot towards the outside of the ring gear,high h/p i tend to run them a little on the inside so it ends up in the middle of the ring gear.
I am familiar with running the toe towards the inside of the gear...but fellas, they make stuff to keep your cases straight these days. Thanks to all so far.
I have done my own for years.I take the bearings and hone the inside races to slide fit on the pinion and carrier. It is relatively easy to slip them off and on while adjusting shims. Don't be afraid of doing it several times till you get the pattern you want. You may also be able to cheat a little bit, say the rear pinion bearing needs a shim to push the pinion closer to the ring gear. You don't have to fight the bearing off and on ,just put the shim between the case and the outer race and you have the same results. Take the old nut and hit the locking part with a die grinder so you can reuse it for the setup. The last time just use the new nut. I hold my yoke with a pipe wrench and tighten with a 3/4 drive socket. I do not like the way the impact wrench chatters on the ring and pinion. When I have everything right I take it apart and locktight the races where I hone them . If you need to do it again sometime, just heat the bearing and the locktight will release.
I think I am feeling the rush from tech week.I have been doing rears for 35 year at least one a week, do the math. Nobody had a good book about rear work until now. Differentials by Jim Allen & Randy Lyman is the frist book that is the real deal.Get it but don't tell everybody.
If anyone is trying to find Differentials by Allen & Lyman- I couldn't find one locally but did find a seller on fleabay that knocked a little off cover price and threw in free shipping with a best-offer deal. Look up "discountgearing" Thanks to Lux for asking and the others for pointing, looks like a necessary addition to my automotive library. OK it's a shelf, but don't tell anyone else.
I ordered mine this morning. thanks to everyone who offered me thier videos, help and to send me various tech posts. I figure if things go the way I suspect they will, I will need to have this book on hand at the shop. Shifty- My automotive library is 3 whole shelves. (simply because somebody died and aparently thier dying wishes were to bestow the crown of "Mr. Mopar" and "Mr.Pontiac" along with all things chevy, Ford and "various". gee...thanks, whoever you were. I have also recently been informed that all my shop does is install big blocks.This is particularly bad because it means I have to remove about 9 motors and actuall install big blocks in thier place....sheesh.)
HAHAHA...I'll be ordering up my copy soon...why is it you hear all this crap about your shop LUX? Seems like people are trying to gang up on you lately...
Dunno. the big block thing is no shocker because we actually do install a large number of big inch motors here lately ( hell, right now they outnumber little blocks in my motor room.) and it really wasn't that insulting. The irony is, I had just pitched the idea of stuffing a big block chevy into a 51 merc and the owner said " The guy that told me about Y'all said YOU would say that." apparently, I am guilty as charged. but, for the record, we also build and install small blocks. Any make. so long as there aren't any viable big blocks around.
I'll just stick to the ambiguous 400 and 455 Pontiacs...they're neither big nor small...hehehe...know anyone that wants pieces of a Dodge 400 motor?
I lub me some poncho's. and I have an excellent use for dodge 400 peices, but I won't be going anywhere near the Marina for a couple of months.
Well, I'll be sending some other stuff with Louver Dude to the Roundup...maybe he'll bring more down...
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