The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by KIRK!, Dec 15, 2010.
This is pretty damn cool! I gotta try it! Thanks man!
Great tech. Another thing for the hotrod Bucket List
If you WERE at my Mom's then I would have you make my plates. As it is you have shown all of us how to perform magic. And for free even! Thanks! peace
another reminder that I know nothing. Good tech...
I really want to try this someday.
I always wanted to try this.
So..went to Radio shack,spent $10.00
And made a little tag last night.
I didn't spend anytime trying to be fancy,
and drew the design with a sharpie..
It is very cool,I will be doing more for sure
It was easy following KIRK's instructions.
This is awesome! love the dash inserts!
OK, I already got bored with the points cover for Mother Fucking Space Olympics (my bike). Actually I decided to do an insert for the long oval in the primary cover and went a new direction, so I had to have a new points cover to match.
It's not done yet. More sanding and polishing, but here it is so far.
That fucking RULES, Kirk!!!!......................Me likey!.......................Why don't you make yourself an etched brass frame, with some script, for a monocle or something, or some glasses?
Tooo Cool !! I gotta try this !!!
Another use for brass shit...
This is for my buddy's 50th birthday - homemade pineapple and jalapeno infused tequilla.
i see this is an old thread...but awesome tech man! there might be a nice set of homemade guide 682-C tags in my future
I have a project for my model A victoria using stainless steel.
Any idea if this will work, or another chemical that will work on stainless?
Thanks for the idea.
Few questions. I could cut a design out of vinyl and stick it on there too right? Eliminate the ironing process? Since you use tape to protect the other side?
I'm fkn doing this this weekend. Here is my design:
Yes you can do the vinyl as a mask, I see you posted this on ratrodbikes, go to the Cabe.com and find the thread were someone is posting badges made with vinyl masks like you said, just make sure to have enough extras cut to mess up, also remember your masking the inverse of the art.
here you go, http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?18972-Headbadges&highlight=custom+badges
I would PM the guy and see what kind of vinyl it is he uses.
I missed this the first time around. Very cool!
KIRK! Can you repost the missing pics? Thanks!
I'll try to find them.
Hey Kirk! "You're a Winner!" oh, and "space luge" is cancelled...
This is so cool!
I wish the pictures were still here, I remember this was an awesome TECH poist...
I wish KIRK! was still here.
I have tried this a bunch of times. I could never get the transfer paper to work. Even tried a t-shirt press. Don't think I could get it hot enough. Not exactly sure what the problem was, but the transfer paper never worked.
I ended up making an etching using a die cut vinyl sticker in place of the transfer paper. That doesn't work very well for small details though. If anyone has tips that would be great.
Yeah he was cool.
So, to etch aluminum, do you think you could use the basic process with the transfers but substitute something like mag wheel cleaner (that stuff that etches the hell out of aluminum wheels)?
To etch aluminum use:
-Hydrochloric acid (same thing as as muriatic acid)
-Hydrogen peroxide (same thing as oxygenated water)
1.- Go to a very well vented area, put on your protective clothing, gloves, eye protection and gas mask with the appropriate filter designed for acids before manipulating the acid, remember, don't do it indoors!.
2.- Use the shallow plastic container to mix the peroxide and acid in a 2:1 proportion, mix just enough to cover the panel and remember, ADD the hydrogen peroxide FIRST, then pour the acid slowly, to avoid any acid splashes.
3.- Place the panel into the container.
4.- The mix will start to react with the aluminum producing a lot of tiny bubbles, and acid vapours, DON'T breath that! , the acid will start to eat the unprotected parts of the panel.
5.- You can take out the panel and rinse it with water(another container with water will do) to check how is it going, take it back to the acid container if it needs some more time.
6.- Let it work until the groove depth left by the acid is about 0.5 mm, you can feel it touching the panel, or taking a closer look, remember to rinse the panel before any inspection, if you let it for too long, the acid will start to corrode the toner and damaging the protected areas.
7.- When the panel is ready, rinse it thoroughly with running water, remove all the tape and rinse it again.
8.- Here comes the green part, after the panel is etched, save the acid mix in a plastic bottle to reuse it another day, it will keep the strength to etch more panels.
Awesome - I think I'll try that for an aluminum fuel cap logo.
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