TECH: How to fix any automotive flared fitting leak for 20 cents

Works on brake, fuel, power steering,oil, trans, vacuum or any
other closed system using a flared fitting. Any flare angle.
Sorry for the quality of the pics in advance.
I will use this on every flared connection in the future.
Use hardware store (got mine at Ace) trim or finishing washers
made of brass or aluminum. Like the kind common in cars
(usually chrome) on interior trim. For 3/16 size line fittings I
had to trim off the very outer edge with a pair of scissors.
Put them at your connection inserted upside down. You might
cram them down in with a small deep socket. Seat the trim washer
against the flare, tighten up the line, and no leaks. Cures leakage
caused by nicks and scratches, burrs, etc common to these
connections. When the connection is tightened the brass or
aluminum deforms perfectly to make a conical washer and seal
any imperfections. If the b-nut on the line doesn't seat fully, use
more than one as a shim to fill the void. Works best to form them
one at a time.
Hope this helps.

 

Prop Strike,

Great idea, will fill it away for that rainy day when I need the fix.

Thanks

Cruiser 49

 

I'm not following on how this works

 

Nice tech tip, will help with some of those old brake lines that are crusty at the ends. If I get off my lazy ass and away from the computer, I can stop that leak on the t-bird.

 

The trim washer goes between the two fittings. The soft brass or aluminum takes the shape of the flare when you tighten the connection. Hope that helps.

 

Every time I've ever had a fitting leak, I simply back it off/snug it up, and repeat a few times.
The fittings are brass already, so the flared steel tubing end will seat into it. If you're lines are crusty enough that you can't get a seal, maybe it's time to replace the lines?
-Brad

 

I must be getting old, I had to use a magnifying glass to read that little print. In 30 plus years of car building, I've never had as many leaks as you have trim washers. I think it would be easier to get a good flaring tool and fix it right. Good tip in a pinch though.

 

Haha...thats cool.

 

It's like a conical (sp) washer. Brand new parts leak sometime. Conical seals are used on AN aircraft fittings at times.

Oh and here it is in bigger font.

Works on brake, fuel, power steering,oil, trans, vacuum or any
other closed system using a flared fitting. Any flare angle.
Sorry for the quality of the pics in advance.
I will use this on every flared connection in the future.
Use hardware store (got mine at Ace) trim or finishing washers
made of brass or aluminum. Like the kind common in cars
(usually chrome) on interior trim. For 3/16 size line fittings I
had to trim off the very outer edge with a pair of scissors.
Put them at your connection inserted upside down. You might
cram them down in with a small deep socket. Seat the trim washer
against the flare, tighten up the line, and no leaks. Cures leakage
caused by nicks and scratches, burrs, etc common to these
connections. When the connection is tightened the brass or
aluminum deforms perfectly to make a conical washer and seal
any imperfections. If the b-nut on the line doesn't seat fully, use
more than one as a shim to fill the void. Works best to form them
one at a time.
Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the assist root, the typing looked normal to me but my computer hammer is broke. One leaker is all it takes to find a fix.

 

Thanks for the great idea, it is absolutely brilliant.
I spent an hour searching for conical washers ...they are very hard to find
as salesmen usually don't remember that they sell them unless you give them a part number.
Now I will use trim washers instead. Great idea.

 

Sadly, PropStrike passed away. He was my hot rod buddy for years. Still miss him. Glad to see this come up again.

 

I don't see the need. I bet one in a hundred flares I make leak, and it is usually a piece of dirt in the flare that when removed fixes it. I say get a new flare tool and do it right. Why fuck around with brake lines. If you crash you may kill me in the process. Do it once, do it right.

 

This came up while I was typing, doesn't change what I typed, just want to give my condolences to his family and friends.

 

We had fought this particular flare for weeks. Done all of the above, tried it all. This was in desperation and it worked.

Thanks for the condolences.

 

"The fittings are brass already, so the flared steel tubing end will seat into it."

Something don't sound right about that comment above???

 

They have them for hydraulics also, called a flair gasket.

 

Some fittings are brass. I don't recall ever seeing a brass wheel cylinder or brass ends on a brake hose other than the block that mounts to a differential.

 

Haven’t used them in years at TWA used them on hyd Sys , they were referred to as conical seals

 

how do you guys dig up this old thread?

 

cool idea, I'll throw a couple in my road box. Just in case.

 

Also lets say you want to close off a brake line ...dig through your nail box to find the right size head ...cut head off nail put head in fitting tighten ...

 

I worked aerospace in the late 60's after I got out of the Army. Everything had stainless steel tubing/piping and we used a soft conical seal of some type on those fittings. I would have never thought about using something like that on brake tubing.

 

I'll stick with these as well. A potato isn't a tomato.

 

Interesting info.

 

Cool trick, I look forward to using this one.

 

Grainger sells them, they are copper.

 

I worked road construction for many years fixing the big earth movers. Most of the time there were no small soft copper gaskets on the field truck. There were, however, always wire terminals. Cut the ring off a wire terminal and presto... you have a small copper gasket for a banjo fitting, also would work well for a flare gasket.
I didn't think of it myself, one old guy I was on a job with didn't bother cutting the tail off the terminal. Pretty obvious what he was using. It also made a nice handle for installation.

 

Sorry to hear Prop Strike is gone. Was posting to thank him. After reading post, I bought a small assortment of copper conical washers. Though I’d give it a try on a bothersome leak at the fuel inlet on a recently rebuilt Rochester 2 bbl. Even with a new flare; line still leaked. Snuggled up the first attempt and fired up the ol’ 55... Dry as a bone. Thanks Prop, wherever you are. Rest In Peace.

AD8

 

Yes,RIP.
Here’s another source.
https://www.valinonline.com/Products/2GF-4