This technique has been mentioned on here before, but I don't think anyone has done a full-on tech piece on it. If so...well, now there are two. I read the technique on a steam engine message board. I think I first saw the link to it on the HAMB. Anyway, it's not hard to do, but it's hard to get perfect. I haven't been going for perfect yet so it's been great for me. I have done a VIN# tag for my DeSoto modified and a tag for last year's Best Of Show award at Billetproof. Both were fine with a "patina'd" look. I actually etched in the VIN# on the DeSoto tag instead of using dies. Trading labor is always a good thing. My friend Larry Westervelt did some work for my modified a while back and has now built some bitchin' aluminum bomber seats. He wanted an old looking tag to put on them with his home-shop name, California Louver Company. He has been punching louvers for decades! You'll see that I made one in copper and one in brass. OK, on with the tech... Supplies: -Brass or copper sheet (I used .032 I think) -Press-n-Peel Printed Circuit Board Transfer Film (PnP Blue. Available at techniks.com) -PCB Etchant (available at Radio Shack or Fry's) -2 flat-bottom plastic dishes (one smaller than the other) -Copier -Block of wood -Clothes iron -Scotch tape -Packing tape -Spray paint (from the auto paint supply, not cheap spray paint) -Sand paper (320, 500, 800, 1000, higher) -Metal polish -Paint polish 1. Design your tag. I have been on the MAC for 19 years, so that's where I did this one. If you are going for an older look, keep it simple. I like to mark the holes to be drilled with center dots. When you're happy with your design you need to print it out in reverse. It needs to be stark black and white - no grays. 2. Put your PnP Blue into the copier and copy your design onto the matte side. This sheet came out a little on the light side, but it ended up working fine. 3. Cut it out. 4. Cut your piece of copper or brass larger than the desired final size. You need the extra metal to tape the PnP Blue onto. 5. Scuff the metal with steel wool to smooth it out. Then rinse it off with brake clean. Then wash it with soap and water to get your grimy fingerprints off of it. That means don't touch the flat surface again, dummy! 6. Now tape the PnP Blue design-side down so that it can't slide around on the surface. 7. Lay the metal with the PnP Blue facing up on a piece of flat wood. The wood acts as a flat surface to keep the plate flat while you iron. Then lay a doubled-over paper towel over it to keep the iron from touching it directly. 8. Set the iron to the highest setting and iron with medium pressure for 3-4 minutes. The idea is to get the plate hot while applying pressure, incase you couldn't figure that out. 9. When you are done ironing, the design will show up much better than it did before. 10. IMPORTANT: Let the metal cool completely before peeling off the PnP Blue. If you do it too soon, it will not leave the resist image. You can cool it with water on the back. Just be sure not to get any on the design side because it can wash off.