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TECH: Convert Chevy cable/drum wiper system to "strong arm" *CHEAP*

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by The_Monster, Nov 15, 2012.

  1. The_Monster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2003
    Posts: 1,805

    The_Monster
    Member

    Hello and welcome to another tech article!
    This is the follow up tech on the 1953-54 wiper system. Previously, I converted the old vacuum motor to a 12V motor for a few dollars. Before you check this tech out, you may want to cruise over that tech if you havent converted your vacuum motor yet, but you HAVE converted to 12V.
    Heres the motor conversion tech, along with a video:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=530519

    Ok, So my cars wipers were getting bad wirth slop and slack. At any speed, the wipers would wipe so far out that they would swipe over my window rubber, across my chrome and smack my rain gutters. It was getting old so I decided to do something about it.
    I looked into the conversion kits. First off, I didnt find a kit that offered the strong arms only, they were a package kit with 12V motor. $385!!

    The 12V wiper motor I did was $20. I used a motor that rotated 360, so I made a bit more work for myself. If you can find a motor from the back hatch of a mini van or SUV, it will only move back and forth. Much easier. Less to think about and build and itll all go under the dash. I may do that in the future just to do it! haha!

    This conversion only took me a weekend and besides the balljoint carb linkage I bought, the whole thing was built using scrap metal here in the garage. So another $20 build!

    BEFORE YOUR START THIS, DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY. LOTS OF METAL CABLES AND METAL RODS WILL BE FALLING AND SLAPPING ALL OVER YOUR DASH WIRES DURING THE PROCESS. Ask me how I know.... :D

    First, pop off your wiper blades. I find using a pick works better than a screwdriver or something else. Better control.
    [​IMG]

    Next, take out the long screw. This holds the splined cap on and also keeps the two pulleys together that you cant see right now.
    [​IMG]

    Pop off the splined cap using two picks, one on each side. This gives equal pressure and you dont risk damaging the cap edges with prying. Note there will be two very small washers. One regular and one spring washer. Keep these for later.
    [​IMG]

    Now youll want to grab your crappiest 5/8 deep socket and go to your grinder and make a tool! This tool will be used for removing and replacing the nut for your wiper assembly. Dont just use a flat tip and hammer to get these on/off. Make the right tool and be proud of yourself for not hald assing it! I painted mine "hotrod" green!
    [​IMG]

    Now that your tool is made, take off the wiper nut
    [​IMG]

    This is your old wiper pulley system on the passenger side wiper arm. Once you remove the nut previously, this will fall out and hang by the cables.
    [​IMG]

    So here is the sloppy cable/pulley wiper assembly out of the car. You need to detach the other cable ends from the drums before you can pull these out. Ill show a pic of the drums Im talking about soon.
    [​IMG]

    There are two ears or tangs on this outer shield. Look at the above pic and you can see the folded ear. Bend those out in order to pull the pulleys out of the housing.
    [​IMG]

    Next, pry off the outer shield to make room for your conversion wiper extensions
    [​IMG]

    There is a tang on the surface of the outside pulley.
    [​IMG]

    Grind it off smooth
    [​IMG]

    more to follow...
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2012
  2. The_Monster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2003
    Posts: 1,805

    The_Monster
    Member

    Remember the drum assembly I was refering to earlier? This is it. Well, this is an exploded view of what it looks like. Disconnect the cables from these drums before removing the wiper assemblies. We wont be using the drums or the splined shaft, but we will use the support.
    [​IMG]

    This pic is a bit early. You need to weld a washer on, but before you do, you need to know the O.D. of the solid rod youll be using for your shaft that youll see soon.
    [​IMG]

    So that youll get the two holes lined up just right, using the solid rod as a guide, insert it through both and then weld the washer.
    [​IMG]

    This is the solid rod Im using, welded to the crank. Youll see this crank and how to make it in the 12V motor conversion TECH. Its the same idea and same crank, but instead of welding the crank to the original cable/drum shaft, Im using a longer solid rod.
    [​IMG]

    Heres a big step. You need to take the two pulleys and clamp them together. Then drill 4 holes through them. Youll use these holes to bolt them together and to the piece of wood here, later to a piece of steel.
    [​IMG]

    This is the crank that is replacing the drums. There will be more pictures on where this is placed and a video showing it working. You want to drill as many holes as possile to give yourself the most combinations when trying out the geometry of the working motions.
    [​IMG]

    Another view
    [​IMG]

    This is the exploded view of the new shaft driven crank that will operate the strong arm wiper assembly. Notice the nylon spacers and washers.
    [​IMG]

    Heres the assembly is complete
    [​IMG]

    And another angle
    [​IMG]

    More to conclude...
     
  3. The_Monster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2003
    Posts: 1,805

    The_Monster
    Member

    oh, and another pic! haha! Just wanted to make clear what it is and how it looks.
    [​IMG]

    Remeber the wood? I used a sheet of Poppler (sp?) board. Its tough and easy to shape and drill. Great for stuff like this. So I drilled a ton of holes and tried almost all of them to see which would give me the best wipe. Youll see that many dont work. Some wont give the wiper arm enough throw, or bind up, or hyper extend past the rotation point.
    Once you find the sweet spot, transfer it to the steel and then make a few holes around it just for the future if you need to change something.
    [​IMG]

    So this is the shaft assembly sticking through the firewall in its original location, using the original mounting areas.
    [​IMG]

    This is a support I made for the shaft assembly. This will mount just above the shaft onto the firewall. I was experiencing alot of movement with the shaft being as long as it is. I made this support and all the movement is gone. Very solid now. Youll see the placement in the video of where this piece is and where it mounts.
    [​IMG]

    This is one of the "strong arms" Ive been refering to! This is just tubing, sliced at the end. I inserted a coupler nut into the end. I have some fine thread all-thread and the ball joint carb linkage ends. I first purchased 2 sticks of the all-thread. Cut them to the approximate length. Threaded on the ball joint ends. Made all my discovery of holes and geometry with those. Once I knew how long they should be, I measured the tubing.
    I cut the tubing shorter than I needed it. Using the all-thread and the welded coupler nut, I can fine tune adjust the length of the arms.
    [​IMG]

    Heres the last pic. The only thing I added here, not shown, is jam nuts. Once you get the length you need, jam nut it. I chose not to weld it in case later I needed to make adjustments.
    [​IMG]

    Heres the video!! Hope this helps someone! Maybe it gives you ideas for a different project?! I had fun!
     
  4. The_Monster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2003
    Posts: 1,805

    The_Monster
    Member

    Heres my original video of the 12V junkyard wiper motor conversion for $20!

     

  5. The_Monster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2003
    Posts: 1,805

    The_Monster
    Member

    What did you guys think about this conversion? yes, no, maybe? Its working strong in the winter rain, no complaints. Im lovin it!
     
  6. Ralphies54
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 772

    Ralphies54
    Member

    I think it's slicker than whale shit. Good job and great tech. I wonder if something like this would work on Tri 5s?
     
  7. The_Monster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2003
    Posts: 1,805

    The_Monster
    Member

    Thank you! This had been up for so long with no replies! I was begining to think I offended the board in some way, haha!
    I think you could. Did the tri 5's have the cable/drum assembly? I thought they had moved to the strong arm system. I dont see why it wouldnt work!
     
  8. MEDDLER1
    Joined: Jun 1, 2006
    Posts: 1,590

    MEDDLER1
    Member

    I love it and saved it for future use when i get to that point on mine. Thanks!
     
  9. Cool tech, good thinkin! :)
     
  10. tommyd
    Joined: Dec 10, 2010
    Posts: 11,946

    tommyd
    Member
    from South Indy

    What?..no billet anywhere?:D I like it and thanks for sharing. I don't work on many tri fives [two in the last year] but the wiper system always looked a little scary. I would take it all loose at the firewall and just ease it inside so everything stayed in place. Didn't even know that there was a fix for these so I didn't want to screw it up. I see they don't scare you at all!
     
  11. Paul Y
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 633

    Paul Y
    Member

    This is very similar, if not the same, set up as on the Tri 5. Great tech saved for when I get back in the saddle.

    P.
     
  12. awesome conversion! thanks for the ideas and the fantastic video narrative :)
     
  13. The_Monster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2003
    Posts: 1,805

    The_Monster
    Member

    Thanks to all the replies! Im glad some of you are saving it for a future "guide" too. Thats cool!
    TommyD, I wasnt scared of the thing only because I was so damn tired of the slapping and slack of the system. I did a lot of brainstorming and drawing before I tore it all apart. It also helps that this isnt my only transportation, so it could be off the road until the job was complete.
     

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