When I ordered the center cross member for my frame, I was planning to run an automatic transmission. Well, after driving several legs of the Hot Rod Power Tour in 57 Heap's 4 speed Bel Air, I decided that shifting gears would be a lot more fun. So I found a T5. Installing the tranny and clutch was the easy part. I then needed to figure out how I was going to link the clutch pedal to the fork. I considered using a hydraulic set up as well as mechanical linkage, but I decided to try a modified 5.0 Mustang cable. I chose the cable because it seemed to be the easiest to set up and it was by far the least expensive option. I purchased the modified Mustang cable from Roy Brizio for about $70. The folks at Brizio start with a stock V8 cable and send it to a cable manufacturer to be shortened and to have heim joints added to each end. The price also included two weld on brackets that I ended up not using. Here's a picture of the cable from Brizio. The first thing I did was modify the stock Chevy clutch fork to accept the heim joint. Next, I cut off the tab located at the bottom of the clutch pedal and moved it to the top of the pedal so the cable pulled in the right direction. (See tacks on left pedal.) I then began to fit the cable to figure out where to place the brackets. (This in when I realized I would not be able to use the provided brackets.) I made a simple but sturdy bracket out of 3/16 stock with a gusset and tacked it in place. Then I made another gusseted bracket for the other end of the cable to fit on the tubular cross member and tacked it into place. (While this was a nice sturdy bracket, because I made it to fit the crossmember, in the end, it will not be used.) Here's a picture of the installed cable my first attempt. As some of you pointed out in your comments below, I should not have attached both ends of the cable to the frame. This pulled on the engine/transmission when the clutch was depressed and the drivetrain movement was quite obvious. So to fix that problem I needed to fab up a bracket to attach the fork end of the cable to the transmission. Here's the pattern I made. Then I cut out the two end pieces from 3/16 stock and bolted them to the tranny so that I could fit the middle piece. I tacked the three pieces together while the ends were bolted to the transmission and then removed the assembly and finished the welding. Then I made another piece to hold the fork end of the cable and welded it to the transmission bracket. I had discovered that my original modification to the clutch fork (second pic above) put the cable/heim joint in a bind when the clutch pedal was depressed. Since I was fixing things anyway, I modified the tab position on the fork to alleviate the binding. And finally, here's a picture of the installed cable with the new drive train bracket. This new design completely eliminated the pulling and resulting movement on the drive train.