I have not posted a Tech in years, some of you may remember my old techs Buick hood hinges for your Kustom http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12071 Split bumpers for your Kustom http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=251701#post251701 Now I am working on a 59 Ford Icecream truck, not too trad, but some items will be helpful. There is a slight kick up in the rear frame, but I needed more inches to get the rear to lay the same as the front, I could not Z or go too much, the freezer is above the rear frame rail. First you need to get your poop in a group, I like to get the frame high up on as many jackstands you can find, I also tack weld the frame to the stands after the chassis is level and shimmed with flat stock. Use a plumb bob and mark out the axle centerline and wheelbase (at ride height) on the floor, you can put down masking tape and mark on that. I found tape at McMaster Carr that has inches printed on it, it is a masking type tape and repeats every 36 inches, see first photo. 'Figgr out how much notch you need, if you only need a little more that half the frame rail, like me, the frame can be cut with a hole saw, I am too sloppy with a torch, I'm getting shaky at my old age of 43 & do not want to grind a radius to fit the pipe. For pipe Do not use water pipe / Black pipe or cast if the chips are like powder when it is sawed or drilled, the pipe is iron, find some steel. Weld a bar across the frame kick up, weld 1/4 inch plate of steel under the frame axle center and to the brace, photo was taken after cut was made. If you try to cut half or a partial hole with a hole saw you will bleed...mount a plate thick enough for the saw arbor pilot drill to hold center and saw through the plate also. If a hole with a hole saw is placed wrong or needs to be bigger tack a new plate on and saw through it and the new location. Keep the drill square with the work, ever pop yourself in the jaw with a 1/2 inch drill, the gear reduction will make you see stars. Stop the hole saw when you are through the side of the frame and cut the bottom of the rail with a torch or sawzall. I need a brake I will post more after I go surf some porn
Is that a weld right up from your cut? If so I would fishplate that area. looks good... nice clean cut.
That does look like a weld in the photo, but, it is a double line for the axle center. I have much more to post, I need to take a few photos. Thanks for looking out for me.
Here are the tools I used, the Portaband is my only saw other than a sawzall, I cut all my brackets with a portaband, sometimes you have to make extra cuts to get all the scrap, I call the saw "Little Suzzie Shallow Throat " I use this belt sander the most and it has been the only tool that has thrown shit in my eye 3 times, cornia scrape & rust rings suck Use good holesaws, do not use that china crap curved bandsaw blade thing it will not work, I do not have a photo. Box plate the inside of the frame. Use a cardboard and trace a template, use the same hole saw in a steel plate and transfer the template to the steel plate, index the template to the hole and get cutting.
ice cream truck? everything says " DOG" PO__-RN "LONG HOT" INTERNET PORN? You must mean "INTERSTATE PORN"
You aint messing around. 14bolt full floater with a 10 lug adapter? Come on what Bigrig rims you running? I love it already!!!
I could not find there also, but MSC does have it. link : http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1661347&PMT4NO=39304002 InDaShop There is a 1/8 inch spacer plate on the axle hub not an adapter, The rear is a Dana out of a 73 F250 the wheels are plain steel wheels with a dog dish cap,but they are 19.5 rims. rollin large
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