Register now to get rid of these ads!

Hot Rods Tall guys and Model A roadsters!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Germ, Dec 28, 2021.

  1. Germ
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 1,290

    Germ
    Member

    The reason why I’m asking is because I have a ‘29 body and a pretty beat 32 frame! I’m 6’4” and I like some leg room mainly I don’t want my knees in the steering wheel.
    I’ve thought of an idea of adding 4 “ to the doors and moving the rear section back, or adding the inches to the rear section to move the belt line back.
    Subtle inch increases here or there.
    The question is have is I’m sure this has been done. before to make a roadster more comfortable for a Neanderthal such as myself!
    Plus I need room for the Yeti and my coffee cups.
    Any ideas? Any pictures? Any interesting concepts!
    Here’s the engine that is planned!

    I came back to hang out for a bit and be a decent person and plus I have a bunch of history I’d like to share
    Lulz
    germ

    989991EF-D8F8-4B70-AFCD-0CEB9F135753.jpeg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 28, 2021
  2. LOL get a rumble seat and sit back there.

    OK being an ass aside. If you add inches behind the door you have to alter the quarter windows. May end up goofy. Dad used two cowls and stretched the cowl a couple of inches for a guy when I was a kid. You really could not tell unless it was parked next to one with a stock cowl.

    A trick that @metalshapes did and one that was a popular 60s trick was to use duece frame rails and make a unibody out of it. Then the floor was added to the bottom of the frame rails. His A bone was a roomy SOB. Maybe if you search him you can find a build.

    Another trick is to move the chassis to the outside of the body (like a unibody) and add foot wells. I have done that with an A coupe that I built for a giant. Worked like a champ.

    Hope something here works for ya.

    Nice to see ya by the way. ;)

    Benno
     
    2Blue2, Boneyard51, brady1929 and 3 others like this.
  3. Kevin Pharis
    Joined: Aug 22, 2020
    Posts: 292

    Kevin Pharis

    I’m 6’5” and have been stuck inside a few early A’s. The flat back pickups are the worst, and coupes/sedans better. Getting inside the car is one challenge, finding a place to put your size 15 shoes while driving is another, and getting out of the car after a long drive is no easy task either.

    The early car cockpits are smaller and have shorter doors. If you’re gonna stretch the car, start with the doors to make getting in and out easier. Don’t chop it! And consider sliding the body back and cut in a foot box to move the pedals forward
     
    stillrunners, Stogy and dana barlow like this.
  4. It is considered to be a '90s street rodder thing but I am a big fan of suicide doors. On an A sized car suicidung the doors makes all the difference in the world for getting in and out.

    You open that bad boy aim your ass at the seat and then swing your legs in. I am not a big man as men go but the older I get the more I like easy in and out.
     
    5window, X-cpe and mad mikey like this.

  5. mgermca
    Joined: Mar 2, 2008
    Posts: 232

    mgermca
    Member

    Yes I'm also 6'2" with a 32 frame, open car under construction.
    We dropped the floor 6" to the bottom of the frame rails like metalshapes did. We built the trans tunnel (to accomodate a T5) and floors and welded it all in.
    Exhaust is ovalized nascar style stuff that runs up tight to the floor and cannot be seen in side profile and the mufflers are under the trunk floor.
    Rear brake line is a braided ss -3 line through the left frame rail, fuel lines are -6 ss braided through the right frame rail.
    That's a 2" x 6" rectangular tube across behind the seats area with a Chris Alston Chassis Works driveshaft hoop.

    You gain a TON of leg room and can lower the seats to below where a normal floor is (top of the frame) and sit lower in the car, and no one will be able to tell it's a dropped floor car when you drive by. Imagine sitting in a conventional Model A and having your heels sitting on a floor that 6 inches lower, your knees no longer foul the steering wheel and you can run a proper 16" wheel.
    Admittedly one problem you may have with this is that the footwells are narrower and three pedals and steering column is a tight fit, but hey, you can't have everything LOL. See pics of Metalshapes three pedal car here:
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...f-metalshapes-uni-body-roadster.314324/page-2
    There are a couple threads with pics of his car.

    image0000051.jpg 20210516_164107.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2021
  6. Tman
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 35,917

    Tman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Lose the angled toe board. You gain several inches that way. Good to see you here Jack.
     
  7. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 17,897

    alchemy
    Member

    Lengthening anything four inches will be a drastic change and ruin the proportions we all have come put appreciate.If you did the changes in one inch increments they won't show to most folks. Lengthen the doors an inch. If you shorten the front end of the quarters then you won't make the body look odd. Move the back of the cockpit back two inches above the main belt line, shortening the tulip panel. It will only look like one inch because the back edge of the door is already one inch closer. And all this without changing the whole length of the body.

    Your could probably sneak another inch into the cowl and most wouldn't notice there either. A Deuce frame would still have plenty of length to hide this mod.
     
    silent rick, hfh, Stogy and 1 other person like this.
  8. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 17,897

    alchemy
    Member

    Hey mgermca did you use thicker wall steel to build the tunnel, making up strength that would normally be in the X member?

    I think an angled toe board is a requirement for comfortable driving.
     
    Stogy, dana barlow and Kiwi 4d like this.
  9. mgermca
    Joined: Mar 2, 2008
    Posts: 232

    mgermca
    Member

    The floor and tunnel are 16 Ga and I would venture that the formed and continuously welded floor and tunnel is stiffer than the x member. Also note the 2" x 2" x .120" tube that traverses the floor at the trans support section.

    Another example of a dropped floor 32 chassis car is Posies 'Driven Dirty' green 32 coupe but all mention of it has disappeared from the Posies website. There used to be a ton a pics of it under construction there that were really helpful.
     
    mad mikey and Stogy like this.
  10. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 7,861

    Rickybop
    Member
    from Michigan

    Hey, Germ. :)
    Often thought that maybe a '33/'34 or similar style lower firewall section would work. But then front frame rails would need to be lengthened and the engine and everything in front of the firewall would have to move forward. Or the body moved rearward.
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  11. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,151

    pitman

    Last edited: Dec 28, 2021
    Germ, mad mikey and dana barlow like this.
  12. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 15,847

    Squablow
    Member

    I definitely feel like a gorilla in a teacup in my '26 T, but one thing that helped was making an angled seat bottom that sits basically on the floor, with the back rest upholstery attached directly to the rear panel to get maximum length. My firewall is pushed out a bit at the bottom but that's easier to do on a T. I've heard of people making a dropped floorpan that drops down into the framerails a bit and I might try to make one to gain a bit of foot room, I'm awfully folded up in there now. The driver's door on my roadster is just for show, I have to get in on the passenger side, but that doesn't bother me much. A long/tall steering column may look a bit awkward but it's the only way my knees don't hit the steering wheel when operating the pedals.
     
  13. Tman
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 35,917

    Tman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


    Yup, @metalshapes car is the one to copy. I am doing the same on mine and flattening the toe boards as well
     
    metalshapes, Stogy and dana barlow like this.
  14. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 4,685

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.
    1. Y-blocks

    All time you use for mock ups*****<manytimes/repettedly pays off in comfort.*****
    #1;Start out with were your pedals are to be{as far forward as pos. and make the pedal pad at the right spot on your shoe*!!
    #2 Is seat as low as you can,with a good feel of angles/both bottom an back,plus make sure your looking through the windsheild,not over it !!!!!!= If your too high ( I think,looking over a windshield looks like poor planning.)
    # 3 play with steering wheel angle an hight. Never us smaller then 14in.; { not ment as insult,just ways of fitting>There are tilt colunms or flip steering wheel hubs for fat beer bellys that can help fit for those that must have more room.
    I'm 6ft 200lb.,was 165lb. in high school,6ft then too.
    My 28A roadster is canneled down over frame 6in. front an 4in. just forward of rear wheelwell,<were bobtailt starts. Floor/rug is top of frame=Seat top of foam is only 6in. above floor{ I'd say drop that to 4 or 5in. but keep enought foam under your butt< How stiff a foam,depens on how much you are in lb.s< rear an bottom of my bench seat angle.= needed lots of mock up in combo with steering wheel pacement and angle{plus size of wheel,never go under 14in.*},and pedals.
    PS; when making seats,foam can be had in numbers,soft too hard.
    A28/29 roadster doors are short { I use stock doors},so if anything must be added too,I'd do it too doors an then move rear back by that much. One trick that can be done for foot room is, bubble out the firewall a little for extra pedal space<that dose not show as much as longer then stock body
    . Dana'sSeats.jpg dennysleving4frankies.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2021
    5window, metlmunchr, jaracer and 2 others like this.
  15. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 23,077

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-unibody-roadster-dissected.331971/

    These are from @metalshapes Build Thread at the link above. Moving the rear section back a couple inches might be your savior coupled with the lower seat...Lots of work but it wouldn't rob the ride of its lines to much in my opinion...if the depth for fit is achieved would the doors have to be lengthened...There is no question every inch added even to the doors would assist entry to anyone climbing in...and Beano's right ass in 1st or be prepared for issues...

    Note Metalshapes Hotrod was a melding of Sport Coupe, Roadster and more see quoted text below...
    "I found a bit more space by using Sportscoupe Quarter Panels ( that gave about 7 or 8" more interior space because the cockpit goes back farther than a Roadster does )
    That meant I had to section them a bit to make them line up with the Roadster Cowl, and I had to make my own doors out of 2Dr Sedan skins & Roadster insides ( lengthened )"

    Credit to Photographer, Owner


     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2021
  16. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 23,077

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    This is something @sloppy jalopies has a great handle on too as he is always mixing things up to gain an inch or two in the interior space department...

    Loosing a bit of trunk space is well worth a more comfortable fit...
     
  17. wheeldog57
    Joined: Dec 6, 2013
    Posts: 2,295

    wheeldog57
    Member

    Also 6'5" I used a second row minivan seat, made short brackets to mount it low and back under tulip panel. 2534.jpeg 2528.jpeg
     
  18. Rob28
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 127

    Rob28
    Member
    from Calgary AB

    Just like wheeldog57 I did the minivan seat mounted on custom brackets and tucked it under the panel as war back as I could go. I’m 6’2 and have room to just stretch out my legs
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 23,077

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great tech Hambers...thats using the real estate for all its worth... I have a gas tank bracing and possibly seat width in my way...These are things that you encounter when it wasn't your build...
     
    wheeldog57 and dana barlow like this.
  20. Rob28
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 127

    Rob28
    Member
    from Calgary AB

    When I built mine I fitted the seat and steering column first. Then I figured out from there where to mount the gas tank and make it alll fit together
     
    Stogy likes this.
  21. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,151

    pitman

    Wheeldog's red roadster is a Cam Snapper, out of Newburyport!
    Saw it on the rear lid.
     
    wheeldog57 and Stogy like this.
  22. rod1
    Joined: Jan 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,012

    rod1
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Have you seen Eli's roadster? The old Buddy Hinman roadster?That has some interesting mods.Model A rails ,but some crazy drop
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2021
    Stogy likes this.
  23. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,150

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    go man go !
    i shortened my sportie qtrs, but the pix may help you visualize extending yours...
    search 1930 sportster, shortened quarters ... page 4 and up... DSCN3880.JPG DSCN3889.JPG DSCN4874.JPG
     
  24. wheeldog57
    Joined: Dec 6, 2013
    Posts: 2,295

    wheeldog57
    Member

    I should have dropped my steering column down a bit more because the wheel is up close to the windshield. On the other hand, the little extra knee room is needed for my long assed legs. This car was not "engineered" for long rides.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  25. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 10,815

    metalshapes
    Tech Editor

    Thanks for all the nice words about my car, guys.

    I still own it and enjoy it, but it no longer has the supercharged engine.

    It now has a SBC with a simple 4BBL, so I could make a full hood for it with staggered rows of louvers.

    2 4 13 009.JPG DSC_1941.JPG
     
  26. If I was a tall man building a roadster I would run buckets and cut them back into the tulip panel and style them like a Corvette. That won't work on a coupe, but @wheeldog57 is on the right track here.
     
    dana barlow, wheeldog57 and Stogy like this.
  27. 2Blue2
    Joined: Sep 25, 2021
    Posts: 186

    2Blue2

    Lots of good ideas here. I'm soaking it all in.
     
    dana barlow and Stogy like this.
  28. sodbuster
    Joined: Oct 15, 2001
    Posts: 5,016

    sodbuster
    Member
    from Kansas

    dana barlow and Louie like this.
  29. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 10,815

    metalshapes
    Tech Editor

    Thank you Sodbuster.

    I'm 6'2", the car is 48" to the top of the hardtop, ground clearance is 6" ( except the grilleshell, it hangs down lower because I didnt want to cut it )
     
    kidcampbell71 and dana barlow like this.
  30. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 8,743

    5window
    Member

    It it camera angle, or is your steering wheel canted toward the driver's side? If intentional, what was the purpose?
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.