Last thursday after work I swapped the tailshafts between a world class unit from an F body and a non-world class from an S10 for it's more ideal shifter location. I know this is super simple and easy and it almost seems silly to do a post on it, but for anyone intimidated by the T5 I'm gonna show you how is this is. (even for a dummy like me). First off, I didn't use a tech manual, or even an exploded view, so some of this may be incorrect and there may be easier ways to do some of this. Let's start out with what you'll need. Find a good world class unit with a good gear ratio. Go to flat ernie's post to see how to identify WC from NWC and a link to a site that identifies your gear ratio from the tag on the trans. Then go to the junkyard (maybe the same one you got your WC unit from) and snag a T5 from an S10. Get out your metric sockets or wrenches, a hammer and drift, some ultra black RTV, degreaser, a few quarts of quality ATF, a little vasaline and some rags and absorbants. And I recommend some safety glasses. Clear a spot on the old work bench and sling one of your trannies up there. I use chunks of 2x4 and 4x4 to support it in different postitions. We'll start by romoving the shifter if you didn't already remove it at the junkyard. Remove the 4 bolts and pull it out. Note the plastic bushing that the shifter ball rides in, I'd pull it out and set it aside so it doesn't fall out and go under your workbench later. Then go ahead and drive out the roll pin that holds the shifter assembly to the shaft. Make sure the gearbox and tailshaft are well supported and drive it all the way through. Now you can remove the 8 bolts that secure the tail housing to the gearbox. Note in the picture the tag I'm holding. That's the tag with the id number for that particular tranny. All the jucy info for the trans is on that tag. The numbers on the case don't tell you anything important. Before we continue on I recommend putting some pig mat or other absorbant or a pan under the trans to catch the residual fluid that's still living in there. Once those bolts are out (make sure you get all 8) go ahead and tap on the tailhousing to seperate it from the gearbox. I use a plastic mallet since it's aluminum. If you don't have a deadblow or something soft try putting a piece of wood between your hammer and the case before wacking away. I also wouldn't reccomend prying since it's soft and there's no gasket just RTV so you don't want to scar that mating surface. Now that the seal between the gearbox and tail housing is broken you can slowly pull the two apart. Keep an eye on the shifter assembly while you do this. The shaft slides out and stays with the lid on the gearbox and the rest of the assembly stays with the tail housing. When these to pieces seperate the spring and ball from the shifter assembly will try to take off and hide under your bench, don't let this happen. Now that we have those apart we can set the tail housing asid for now and get the lid off the gearbox. Remove the bolts from the lid (note 2 of them ar dowelled). Once all the bolts are out tap on the lid to break the seal between the lid and the gearbox. I'm pointing at a good place to tap. Remember gently tap and no prying. Once the seal is broken push the lid toward the drainplug sid of the trans. Just use your thumbs. You can see where I'm pushing with my left thumb and if I wasn't tiking a picture my right thumb would be pushing where the shifter shaft comes out of the lid. After you push it all the way over the cover should easily rise out of the gearbox. OK that's pretty much it for that one, now you can repeat the process on the other unit. Now for a little intermission, you can see that the trans in the pictures so far (the S10 unit) is a filthy mess, so I took it to the car wash and pressure washed it which I should have done before I started. And we should also discuss the oil flinger for the overdrive cluster. There are different flingers for different tailshafts and the casting in the tail housings is different. If mismatched the flinger and the housing might not get along and the gearbox won't seat fully to the tailhousing, or you might not get the proper amount of oil slung on the gear clluster and prematurely fail your new T5. So all this bing said, use the plastic flinger from the trans that the tailhousing came from, or make sure that the one in the other trans is IDENTICAL. The white plastic piece is the flinger. Here you can see the differences in the tailhousings. (WC on the right and NWC on the left) and in the next picure you can see a steel bushing or washer that aides in directing flow. I don't know which T5's have this set up, but if your tailhousing has it make sure you keep track of it and you remember to put it back before you do final assembly. Now I don't know if it is necessary, but I swapped the shifter shafts in the lids. I don't know if the shift forks or the assembly in the lid are different. So just to be safe I put the T5 (shorter shaft) shaft in the lid from the WC unit. Just drive the pin out and pull the shaft out of that cluster of stuff up there, rinse, repeat and put the shafts in the other lids. You might want to take a picture for a reference of how it should look when you're done. OK now that everything is disasembled it's time to get everything clean and prepare for final assembly. I used some engine degreaser and sprayed anything that had built up crap and the bottom of the gearbox to get anything that lives below drainplug level out. I just pulled the drainplug and flushed it with degreaser. Then used compressed air to get any dry crap and dust out. Then gave everything a light rinse with clean ATF to get rid of all the degreaser and anything else left behind. Once everything was sanitary I put the tailhousing on to make sure that everything fit flush and I didn't have any oil flinger interference. I held the small steel washer/bushing for the flinger to the tailhousing with vasaline. Now go ahead and clean all your mating surfaces. This is critical since there's no gaskets, just RTV. Once they're all clean you can lay a bead of RTV around the top of the gearbox then let it tack up for about 30 seconds to a minute. Set the lid on the gearbox offset to the drainplug side the same way it came off. Line up the forks with the slots in the gears and ease the lid onto the gearbox. Once it's lowered slide it over to the center and try not to let it hit the mating surface with the RTV on it. Once centered ease it down to it's final resting place. Bolt it down finger tight starting with the 2 dowelled bolts first, then install the rest finger tight. Now I put the drift where the roll pin goes and shifted the trans and rotated the input shaft to make sure everthing was lined up correctly between the lid and the gearbox.