Well, I've been poking around here since last November, so I thought it was about time I started a build thread to show y'all what I'm working on. I did an introductory thread back then. The first thing I want to say is that I am in awe of the talent I see posted on this site. The metal fabrication and the high quality of the welding some of you folks do just blows me away. I know some of you do this for a living, but still.....it's mind-blowing. With that said, I'll say that I'm not a professional metalworker, but I enjoy doing this kind of work and I want to build this car. I've built several frame-up restorations, but as you all know, there's a lot more ass-scratching involved in building a Hot Rod. That's why I love it. My fabrication skills are not at the level of what I see on this site, so don't expect too much. My work will be rudimentary by comparison. But I enjoy building cars, so here we go. I began this build about 9 years ago. Then some other things became more urgent, so the chassis was out back of my shop eating grass for about 8 years. I brought it back into the shop last fall. Here's a pic of it at that time. I have been building and restoring Model T's for the past 15 years, so there will be several T parts involved in this car. I like Model T's. I built the frame using Model TT one-ton truck frame rails with shortened Model A front and rear crossmembers. I wanted the extra length of the TT rails, and wanted to be able to bolt in Model A front and rear ends. And here it is with the 59A block and '39 tranny in place. I began at the back and worked my way forward, so I didn't need to shorten the driveshaft. With the engine/trans in place, I left enough space for the fan and radiator, then cut off a few inches of excess frame rails and welded in the front crossmember. I won't be having the problem that a lot of you are experiencing, trying to shoehorn an engine into a too-small space. I disassembled it all and had the frame sandblasted (again), added an X-member of 3" channel, then painted it with Nason Chassis Black using a brush. I looked for quite a while for a '15 Roadster body. This is all I could come up with. The passenger's side isn't bad, but the mice have been after the bottom of the driver's side. The cowl top was beat up and rusted through, but I had a better one in stock. The rear center panel was a mess as well, plus, it's a '23 body, so the bead above the turtle is too high. The '15 through '23 bodies are essentially the same, except for that center panel. So I ordered a repro '15 panel from Howell's. About that time, I was visiting with Bob Whitehead, who lives about 30 miles from me. He had a running rebuilt stocker 8BA engine he wanted to sell, and he made me a good deal on it. I jumped at that, since it cost me less than it would have to finish building the 59A I have, and it would move the build along timewise. The 59AB I started with is a '47 truck motor, so I'll probably finish building it later and swap them out. Here's the 8BA. And Bob also made me a deal I couldn't refuse on some Thickstun head covers and a PM-7 intake. I set the body on the chassis, in order to figure out where in the world I could put the F-1 steering column. The frame is Model T width at the front and a few inches wider at the rear, so there's not much room inside it. I figured out that the steering box would need to be mounted to the top of the frame, rather than inside it. I just needed to slide the body back a couple of inches to make room for it. Note the hairpins in that last pic. I didn't like that arrangement, so I rebuilt the hairpins and cut those ugly brackets off, trimmed them down, and welded them on the underside of the frame. You'll see the end result in some later pics. When I started this project 9 years ago, I wanted to use a '15-type brass radiator on the car, so I got one from Brassworks, set up for a Flattie. I've since changed my mind about that, since I've not seen any period pics of post-war Rods with brass radiators. Everyone wanted to use later components on their Rods, and brass had long been out of style. From what I can gather, the brass rads became popular again during the Fad-T phase of rodding, and I want my car to look like a post-war build, not a Fad-T. So please ignore the brass rad in the upcoming pics, and envision a black one in its place. (The Brassworks rad will be for sale at Chickasha, in case anyone's interested.) I'm now going with a later T low radiator with a stock T radiator shell. I don't have any pics of that at present, but you all know what they look like. I borrowed a tall Thickstun from Bob to see what that would look like. It looked like this: The taller PM-7s have a lot more WOW! power than the shorter ones, but I'm going to run the top of a hood, and the tall manifold din't work out with that. The tall one put the top half of the carbs outside the hood, and I didn't like that. So it's back to the shorter one, which will expose just the top of the air filter above the hood, and I think that'll look pretty kool. OK, back to the steering. There was not enough room for the box in its stock configuration, even mounted atop the frame. So I cut off the mounting flange along with about 1" of the bearing surface for the shaft. Then I turned the flange around, and that extra 1" made it fit just fine. I didn't weld it back together yet, because I'm waiting until I have the body and seats in place to determine the best angle for the column. So the bottom bolt goes through the frame rail, and I made brackets for the other two bolts. They got welded to the top of the frame just after this pic, but I'm ashamed of my welds so here's a pic with those pieces sitting in place without the welds. The Pitman arm was curved away from the chassis, like this. So I applied some heat and reversed the bends, so it's closer to the chassis. I bought these aftermarket headlight mounting brackets which are made like folks used to do using a Model A headlight bar. I didn't want to ruin an original light bar, so I bought the repops. I put them alongside the radiator, so I could use the same bolts for both. I have a pair of headlights to use which are off some mid-30's car or truck, but they are 9" diameter, and they wouldn't fit on the stands beside the radiator. So I opted to go with some aftermarket 7" Dietz-type lights instead. I shortened a pair of F-1 shock mounts by 2-1/2" and bent their tails up. Here they are on the chassis. And here they are with shocks installed. I used the perch-bolt lower mounts because they were quick and easy and I didn't know any better. But after seeing several folks chastised here for using them, I'll now drill the axle and weld in some bungs instead. Don't mind the overspray; I had just painted the engine red a few feet away. I welded on mounts for the rear shocks. (I hope I did these right.) Here's the painted 8BA, with 59A heads. That's so I can use the Thickstun head covers. And here's a pic showing those rebuilt hairpins I mentioned earlier. Well, that's about all for now. Tune in next time for the next exciting chapter, when we will attack that ugly rustbucket and try to make a decent body out of it.