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Technical T body on stock A frame/drivetrain

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Lättähattu, Feb 8, 2018.

  1. Lättähattu
    Joined: Oct 29, 2009
    Posts: 15

    Lättähattu
    Member
    from Finland

    Howdy

    I'm building a 30's style lake modified by mounting a 17-22 model T touring front half on stock model A frame. Like to use completely stock model A drivetrain with stock pedals. But cause T body and cowl is much narrower than A, the clutch pedal seems to come through the side of cowl, not firewall.

    I bet somebody has done this combo before. And the modification of pedals should not be a brainer. But cause i'm a lazy guy, i like to see some pics how the pedals should be bend and cut. Really not willing to weld on brake pedal, cause pedal is somekind cast or forged steel, never know how the weld will hold. And remembering how those mechanical brakes worked on my model A, you have to jump on them pretty hard.

    So let's show your pedals. IMG_20171229_031433.jpg
     
    bobo1 and Just Gary like this.
  2. IronTrap
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 313

    IronTrap
    Member

    Heat and bend both pedals over to the right until it all fits. Might put your throttle pedal more on the transmission tunnel, but should be pretty straight forward.
     
  3. Been there, it's no big deal. First you need to install your Stock A steering column in. You need to move it over with a spacer on the Frame about 3/8" to get it in the Stock T dash mount. Then heat and bend both Brake and Clutch pedals to fit the Column. Also I just modified the T front body mount to sit on top of the A frame and drilled a new bolt hole in the A frame. All this is real basic adjustments. Mount your body so the Stock A rear wheels fit the Stock T rear fender openings on Center and mount body accordingly.
    The Wizzard
     
    IronTrap likes this.
  4. Lättähattu
    Joined: Oct 29, 2009
    Posts: 15

    Lättähattu
    Member
    from Finland

    Thank you for helping me out. And it was good tip not to forget that there has to be room for steering column too! Did you also tilt column downwards, or just shim it more center?
    And for body mounting, i dont have to worry about rear fender openings, cause i'm using only front half of a touring. Just try to mount it as far back as possible, stretch the body a little by welding seat back rearwards and play with rear mount gas tank a little to avoid shortening the frame. Maybe can't do it without shortening, i'm afraid it will look like a tow truck of 18 wheeler. But let's see, i'm not quit there yet.
     
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  5. We all have our own ways of doing things. My project is on a stock wheel base Model A chassis and will be a Full Fendered 27 T. That means making the running boards around 6" longer along with the splash aprons. Moving the steering gear inboard some was done to get a clean line from the frame to the T dash mount. After doing that I had to clean out the pinch bolt notch in the sector gear. Not sure what you mean by tilt the Tilt the column down. You just do what it takes to make it work. Here's a photo before I started mounting the Fenders. Where you mount the Body will tell you what to do for steering. It all has to work together as a system. If you move the Body to far back your stock A brake and clutch pedals will hit the floor before they do there job. Move the seat to far back in the body and you won't be able to reach them unless your 8 feet tall.
    20161110_105958.jpg
     
    dwollam, rusty valley and dualquads like this.
  6. I posted a different photo than I started to but you get the idea.
    The Wizzard
     

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