T-5 Troubles, Help needed.

I have a 350 that is going in my 30 A model with a late 80's T-5 from an S10. The bell housing is, I think, a 62 or so chevy ( it has threaded holes for the top trans bolts and the bottom holes are not threaded). It also has the side mounts, but I'm not using them. And the bottom surface is flat to the floor when the dust pan is removed.

My problem is that the trans will not pull up to the bell housing. I can easily slide the input shaft into the pilot bushing with out the clutch or pressure plate installed. I can easily put the trans and bell housing together when the clutch in not installed. When all parts are installed it stops abput 1/4 inch short of bolting up. I've tried to leave the pressure plate loose enough to help wiggle the parts together but it doesnt work. I've sanded ith inside of the pilot bushing for a few thousands of clearance. Same problem. What is the problem???????????

 

I think you'll need to cut 5/8th inch off of the end of the input shaft. With the bellhousing on, measure the distance from the crank (thru the pilot shaft bushing) to the transmission mout surface (on the bell housing).

Then measure the tranny from the bellhousing mount surface to the end of the input shaft. Compare the two measurements. I think you'll find that the input shaft it a bit too long and bottoming out on the crank.

 

Try mounting the trans to the bell housing without the pressure plate installed but with the clutch disc on the input shaft to see if the splines on the input shaft are long enough to allow the disc to slide back enough to allow the trans to bolt up.

 

Why not use the right bell for the application, from a mid-80s Camaro or Firebird? Are those the ones that the trans mounts at an angle?

 

the front bearing retainer sleeve (not sure what if this is the right name, but it is where the front splines go though) need to be trimed back, because it is hitting the clutchdisk.
I have almost the same set up 283, 60's castiron bellhousing, and T-5. I had to trim the end of the shaft and also the bearing retainer sleeve, but I also had a sag 4-speed to compair it to how much need to be cut. Later had to trim it some cause you could hear it grind against the clutch disk.

 

Thanks for the information from each of you. I think Ornery37 has the correct solution, I'll find out later today.

 

I think about 1/2 to 3/4 inch off the snout/bearing retainer sleeve will save you. Doesn't need to be precise lathe type job, unless you have one, a cut off wheel or hacksaw would do.

Frank

 

Just a guess, but when you cut you want to go slow and not blue the metal with the heat as you cut through.

 

37FORDTRUCK,

The problem isn't the bellhousing.

S10 T5's have a longer input shaft and a longer input collar. They also have shorter splines. Put the tranny in with just the disc in place. I think you will find that the disc is bottoming out, as I assume you didn't try to shorten the input collar or shaft???
Sometimes you need to take a little of the clutch hub, or lengthen the grooves in the shaft in order to get the setup to go together without binding.

If you have another "regular" Chevy manual tranny, use it for comparison and shorten the T5 to match. Also run a 1/2" drill through the mounting holes, as the T5 is metric.

 

Snarl has it - check your clutch disk clearances...

Other option may be custom disk from a rebuilder...

 

I had an S-10 t5 behind a small block in my truck. I had to shorten both the pilot and the bearing retainer. I am using a later aluminum bellhousing. The camaro t5 bearing retainer will bolt on the s-10 t5 if you have one.


jerry