Trying to piece together a 59a to t-5 tranny. Speedway offers a few kits, but I wonder if anyone has fabbed a throw out fork and just bought the bearing. Also curious to know if I’m right thinking this T-5 is a gmc non world class. Any help is appreciated and respected
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-GM-Manual-Trans-to-Flathead-V8-Adapter-GM-Clutch,11098.html this bell? , hoping to piece the rest of the kit together
We cannot tell if it is World Class, or Non-World Class without a picture. Most, but not all of these kits use a T5 from an S10/S15 truck. Those were mostly Non-World Class, but transitioned to World Class at the end of the product line. As for a throwout fork, not only does it need to be fairly precise, it also has to withstand a fair amount of force. If I had to rely on my engineering, or the engineering of a company that makes the product repeatedly, I would buy one.
There was a tag on one of the bolts that holds the tail housing when it was made. In it there are a bunch of stamped numbers. One is 1352-XXX, with the XXX being the three-digit build code. That will indicate what gears are in it. That number is (was) also on the white sticker on the top cover, in one of the corners. Clean it very gently. You might be able to still read it.
The sticker is faded and ripped beyond use. I didn’t see the tag either. I’ll double check just to be certain. If I can determine this to be a certain make chevy or gmc. Can I piece a kit together or has anyone made a throw out fork?
Chevy and GMC are exactly the same. There is no distinction. Your transmission has the GM bell housing pattern. That, and the length of the input shaft, are all that really matter. You do not need to make a fork. The Speedway adapter is designed to use a GM one. Those are easy to find. It would take a fair amount of engineering and fabrication to save $25. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1253180892...QEE/9sL/hs7eQ9PrCvWil21Yw=|tkp:Bk9SR7iaiOzcYA
What @gimpyshotrods said. The most important thing is the internal gear ratios; you don't want a 4 cyl. application.
Put the shifter in first gear. All the way to the left and forward. Put a piece of tape on the top of the input shaft. Make a mark with a pen at the 12 o'clock position. Put a piece of tape on the back side of the output shaft. Make a mark with a pen at the 12 o'clock position. Turn the input shaft as many times as it takes to turn the output shaft once. If it is about 3-3/4 turns, then the transmission came from behind a 60-degree V6. If it is right at, if just a little past 4-turns, then the transmission came from behind a 4-cylinder.
It looks like someone has been playing with that one a bit changing the shifter and maybe putting a Jeep input shaft in it. The teeth look more like Regular Chevy than S-10. This is one of the best T 5 ID charts I have found if you can carefully clean the tag enough to read it or most of it. Identification Key to Borg-Warner T5 transmission ID Tags (britishv8.org)
That's a GM S10 NWC T4/T5 input shaft 21 tooth/14 spline It fits in the 1984-1992 T4/T5 S10 S15 Sonoma transmission. Part# 1352-085-003 The input bearing collar is S-truck specific, and is the only one with that length. Part# 1352-027-003
Thanks guys, I’ll check the ratio. It looks like Speedway has the bell. The kit they sale is back ordered, that’s why I wondered if I could get the thing pieced together. I figured it may be an standard part or easy enough to figure out. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-GM-Manual-Trans-to-Flathead-V8-Adapter-GM-Clutch,11098.html Is there any difference between the 4 and 6 cyl t5 other than the gear ratio? I do have a quick change I’m trying to use also.
Cornhusker sells a T5 adapter kit that appears to have everything if it is available. http://cornhuskerrodandcustom.net/t-5-transmission-kit/
Ya, it’s covered in dirt and grime. No shifter top on it when I bought it, so I threw that cheap short shifter on it. If this has the correct ratio I’ll be excited. I have about $100 in the thing now. Internals appear clean and not worn.
Even if it is not the "right ratio" it will still work. Since you mentioned a quick change, you can adjust there for best performance, based on how and where you drive the car.
I'd look here. And fuck EVERYTHING Speedway sells. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...et-–-fool-me-once.973895/page-3#post-11020608
...maybe start here actually. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/flathead-t5-racket-–-fool-me-once.973895/
Speedway's kit is pretty well a knockoff of Cornhuskers kit. His kit looks spendy until you start adding up all the pieces that are in it and figure that you don't have to go hunting for a lot of extra parts. Still one has to decide if they are going to run a Flathead Ford style clutch release arm that the pedall turns the shaft that pushes the throwout bearing or a later style that runs fork and pushrod setup.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/cornhuskers-t-5-adapter-kit-to-flathead.1216923/ Looks like a complete kit. Is this pieced together or was this bought to work together. I’m a little skeptical since the fingers have been cut down and the housing was modified to fit a starter. Thoughts?
Sorry! I don’t mean that comment to read like I think anyone is shady. I have messaged the guy, I wanted to know if it’s a good complete kit. That’s all Thanks
Bought my kit years ago from Gary at Cornhuskers. I'm using the stock Ford throw-out system with a adaptor bushing that came with the kit. The hard part was sourcing the proper diaphragm pressure plate for the stock, large TO bearing. I believe Gary may have a source now. Your tranny appears to have the electronic speedometer sending unit. If you want to use a std mechanical speedometer you will need to make some modifications or purchase a special converter.
My early bell housings were not notched out for the starter and the customer had to do it, no big deal just a little grinding with a 4 inch grinder. On the pressure plate the fingers need to be shortened so they work with the large Ford TO bearing and don't grind down the hub. Originally the diaphragm PP that works as is was a CA30.
Sooo, as far as that flywheel set up is concerned. I guess I figured that people were using more of an s10 clutch set up to a ford flywheel. On a different note, is a 10” flywheel optimal for a flathead. I’m building my flathead naturally aspirated. 3 duece, 97’s. edelbrock heads and a 3/4 cam. I’d love to have that idle that’s probably way to low rpm and a with good throttle response. Thanks again y’all and have a great and semi safe long weekend.