JB- Looking great. Your car is a big inspiration for me, as I'm building a similar car. What did you do to get rid of the gap between the model A body and the 32 frame? Thanks!
I think the photo server had some problems earlier today. If they keep disappearing, I have to put them up on Photobucket. Here goes some of todays stuff in the garage. Always lots of things that are done that I forget to take pics of. I have started to do a bracket for the steering column. Finished it today. Since I have an original 1932 ignition/lock/column support, I wanted to keep that one. Cut off the original model A and started on a piece of iron. Heated with a soft curve Then I did a T. Dirty fingers is great help when you can't mark from under the bracket. Tried out the length Welded the pieces together and welded to the tank Welded on the other side and of course the lead cracked open a bit by the heat Off to buy some new lead to put on Done! In place Time for a cold beer!
Thanks! Except the kick up in the rear subframe, we cut a V in the lower cowl and welded it together. Now it's pretty ok with the gap.
Got a little done in the garage Thought I'd make new headlight brackets this week from the old model A headlight bar. I took out the BLC 682's from the shelf where they had been collecting dust for some years and noticed that the bolts were pretty rusty. Got ok after some cleaning up. 7/16" UNC. When installing new inner fender wells, I forgot to weld in new bolts. Here we go. Then it was time to do something about the steering wheel. I have planned to use a 1940 Mercury wheel, but it looks a bit sad when installed on top of the original 1932 column. The 1932 wheel has a different back side than the 1940 wheel. On the stock 1940 Merc there is a casted back side on the steering column. I had thought of different ways of solving the problem, but then I took a look at my dusty Merc standing there and came up with the idea to use a chrome bullet as a back side of the steering wheel. Said and done! Took off the bullet and put it on the operating table Time to get to work Then I attach it to the bottom and paint it black like the rest of the steering wheel. Tomorrow is gonna be a tough day. Finish complete hood, right door, trunk lid, grille shell, gas tank, windshield and stanchions and leave to the painter. Then we have only the left door that is some more work on and also the body left to do. Those will be dropped off to the painter at the end of the week. Damn, I need to choose a color! Quick!!!
JB, great job! You did such a good job telling us each build/modification step then providing photo's. Enjoy your 40's build "Hot Rod". Bob
If I pull nothing else from this thread then to use a bullet for the bell end (that's what she said) on my '40 steering wheel I'm in good shape. How did you fasten it to the column?
I think he intends to attach it to the wheel, atleast from what I read. Might look more original attached to the column though.
Just saw this, as far as the bells go for the steering columns.. Limeworks sell a stainless bell that you can press onto a column tube, to suit the 40 onwards wheels. I think the fella said they were $55 bucks from memory.. same ones they use on their columns.
Thanks! I will be coming down under to Australia for a short tour with my other band in the beginning of June. Jack Baymoore and the Bandits. Playing the Coolangatta 50's Fest Glad you enjoy the build, guys. I didn't know about that Limeworks bell. Never checked out their stuff. Maybe I get one later. The thing here is that I have a tach bracket to go on the upper part of the column and I want to slide that from the top instead of bending it open. So, I have thought of attaching the bell to the bottom of the steering wheel and make it come off with the wheel. I can change plans later, but this was my idea. Been very busy working with my dayjob and the rest of the time in the garage, so here is a 2 day update. Time to do the hood latches and clips. I bought 1932 latches and the front ones were very easy to set up in the original holes. The rear ones needed some thought. I didn'r want to weld anything and I actually didn't want to do any extra holes. There is one hole that is pretty close to where the latch should be, but I don't want the bracket to be able to turn. I took a piece of 2"x4" steel profile and cut out a piece and let the inner angle just go over the frame to lock it in position with just one screw. Here's the deal Time for the clips Then Benny riveted them in place and here we go. 1928 original louvers and handle The left door is a mess and Benny is putting lots of work in to that one. Here's what it looks like now with a new door skin. Hopefully it will be ok in a few days... So, while Benny was doing some hard work on the door yesterday, I started to tear down the car for some more body work and paint. The body have to be on the frame to be able to finish the left door And now I have to choose the final color... I want it dark brown, but that one with a little red in it is nice too. Hmmm... I think I will go for the brown. The car will have racing numbers and some text in a creme color too. Decisions, decisions...
Thanks! I think we have two shows at Coolangatta and one a bit away. Don't know where. I will ask the promoter. First time down there!
I chose a third one. But it is very brown. Ordered the color today and ready for pick up tomorrow. Yesterday we checked Bennys work on the left door. Man, it was really good. Lots of work, but now only some things around the lock and on the inside is left to do before paint prep. Then Benny took the door with him to finish and tomorrow the body and body parts is taken to the paint shop for prep and paint. I will have a tough time to get the complete chassie stripped, paint the frame and other parts and then build it all back together with finished engine, exhaust system and all other parts in place before the body is back from paint. Hey. who needs 48 hours in a day anyway?
That's George Rubio slouching in the MOrton-Rubio Roadster.......I knew George Rubio before he died a few years ago......the roadster belonged to Rubio, but the engine was built by master flathead builder, Bob Morton, whom I also know.......haven't seen him in several years though, but that's his handwriting on the photo. He worked for Lou Senter at the ANSEN Shop while he was in high school. This car was also among the very first participants in the 1949 Bonneville Inaugural speed trials........ Just wanted to add a few details to this pic........CB
Wow, thanks for those details, Bruce. You rock! I really hope you will come over to ride my new roadster real soon.
That damn picture server seems to be unstable, so I will try to put all the pics that are lovated there to my photobucket. Sorry about that. But no time for that right now. I have to keep building the car. Yesterday I took the car and body parts to the paint shop.
The Jalopy Journal
