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Swedged wheel studs....help please.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Amaverick, Aug 14, 2012.

  1. I have these rotors on MoFo and need to change the studs as you can see ......a couple of miles with a loose wheel after some twisty mountainous roads did the damage.
    The studs are swedged to hold the hub to the hat......the studs are knurled lower down to hold them into the rotor.
    My question is, if I can find studs with a longer knurled portion and drive it thru both the hat and the hub, will this be enough or do I need to find the right stud and get it swedged again?

    My problem is I do not know what this rotor came off of, maybe someone recognises it?...long shot I know.

    It's kinda hard to source the right bits down here in the shakey Isles.:D
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Press one out, give us the stud thread size and pitch. The O.A.L. or over all length of the stud and finally the diameter and length of the knurled section. Then how much longer total would you like for the knurled section.
     
  3. Theres a specific tool for cutting off the swedged area around the studs,but you dont really need it.
    Ive used the edge of a cutoff wheel in a die grinder,& carefully taken the swedge off.
    The rotor will slip off with gentle persuading.Knock out the old studs,measure the length & get new ones.Clean up the cutoff wheel marks on the rotor with a 3M roloc,& make sure the stud holes in the rotor get deburred.
    No need to swedge the new ones,but make sure the rotor locates/centers on the hub.

    edit--after looking at that again,and before grinding,I'd try smacking one of those studs with a bfh once or twice & see what happens.
    If it doesn't come out,stop & do the above work.I'm curious on this one......
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2012
  4. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    A 5/8th" hole saw without the centering drillbit works wonders for removing a swedged area on the studs without F%&king anything.
     

  5. We supported the hat underneath with a biggish socket and a couple of good blows got one out.
    Will the longer knurled portion hold the hub sufficiently well ?
    Both parts seem to have the same ID.
     
  6. Very cool.
    You should be able to knock the new knurled studs into the hubs the same way you drove the old ones out.
    Do some measuring first,but Im guessing you'll just be able to slip the rotor on and off the hub/studs from now on.
     
  7. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,564

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    My guess is a longer knurled stud will be fine, if the hole diameters are actually the same. quite a few modern cars have discs that just slip over the studs, and are held in place with two small countersunk setscrews.. replicating that would be an easy way to feel safe if it at all worried you.
     
  8. Actualy most front drive cars have the stud pressed into the hub woth the rotor floating on the studs. The torque down the lug nuts hold everything together. The counter sunk screws dont hold anything once the wheel and lugs are on. I think they are there to hold thing together during assembly.
     
  9. BOBBYA312
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 140

    BOBBYA312
    BANNED
    from Ala

    Correct Slayer- The FWD rotors use the hubs and the lugs to center the rotor. The countersunk screws on some and the little retaining "washers" on others are to keep the rotors on during assembly.
     
  10. I like the idea of the set screws or a similar arrangement.
    On the rotor slipping on and off subject, the hub is in front and the hat behind. You can see the parting line about 1/4" down from the top in the pic, the swedges held the rotor and studs and all to the hub.

    The units are some kind of GM product apparently........not late model or front drive though.
     
  11. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    Just order the correct replacement studs for the rotor. It will fit properly and have the extra length for the swedging operation.
     
  12. He doesn't know what the rotors came off of.

    If he gives me the dimensions ask for in post #2, I could give him numbers for studs that will be the strongest in the business. Won't cost that much to ship to N.Z.
     
  13. Take one to a napa store along with a vernier and match it up in one of their catalogs. They still have paper catalogs for things like this.
     
  14. Sorry man, I didn't notice your location, go with TR's help.
     
  15. the lugs are splined at their base part-right?
    Once you have the old ones out line up the splines carefully before next step= you can pull the new ones in with a stack of washers and then tighten the lugs to pull it in tight.....an Impact whench may be necessary tho.....
    BTW- that don't appear to be any GM parts to me....
     
  16. Yeah, I had brainfade ...it has ford/mopar stud pattern, 1/2" studs.....but off what?
     
  17. jnichols
    Joined: Jul 10, 2011
    Posts: 22

    jnichols
    Member

    If you go here,
    http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/2006_hardware.htm
    and go to section 10 they have a guide to identify wheel studs with pictures.
    To prevent damaging the hole in the hub by forcing the swedged section through I have found it best to drill the head of the stud off and knock it out from behind.
     

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