I just got my hands on a fairly solid 63 Olds Dynamic 88 4 door. It needs a few things to be driveable, the first of which is a brake booster. Since I'm gonna be swapping the old stock booster, with a newer dual diaphragm universal booster, I wanna go ahead and add a dual master cylinder as well, with a long term goal of a disc brake front swap in the future. The question: What will I need aside from the booster/dual master cylinder. Do I just need to separate my front and rear lines and plumb them to the appropriate ports on the MC? Since I'm sticking with front and rear drums for now, will I need a proportioning valve? Thanks in advance for any advice! -geoff
I did this with an OT 65 Mustang and just needed to split front and back lines Sent from my moto g(6) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You should not need a proportioning valve. Drum/drum systems are designed to work with the same pressure at both ends of the car.
Just did this on my '54 Customline. It was a single master/non power brake car. Installed an 8" dual diaphragm booster and a Mustang dual master. I plugged the rear port on the factory brake tee and used the factory front brake lines. Fabbed up a new rear line and made just a slight mod to the brake rod into the booster. No proportioning valve needed. Pretty simple, really.
If the replacement M/C is from a drum/drum setup, just separate the lines and hook them up.. If the M/C is for a disc/drum setup, the drum outlet port usually have a residual pressure valve incorporated, whereas the disc outlet doesn't
First off where are you from? I have some Olds stuff that might be helpful. I did this on my 65 Olds 88 and as it's been said just split front and rear. I always use the factory distribution block it just makes things easier. Also you may need to look for a MC with the ports pointing towards engine I don't think I had the room for the brake lines (they hit the fender panel) and lastly you might want to rethink upgrading the brakes ie disks I have done a lot of these swaps and my 65 was not worth the aggravation, the 11" brakes work fine stopping my 4000# boat. Good Luck, Pat
Since front discs are in your future, I would install a disc/drum master, and plumb the fronts to the larger reservoir. Your older drums need residuals. Most drum/drum masters had them internally (behind the tube seats) as well as the drum outlet on disc/drum masters, so check the master you use, or add 10 lb inline aftermarket valves to each axle if none are present. When you add the front discs, remove the front axle residual. An adjustable proportioning valve could be installed at this time. With the valve adjusted max, you'll have 1000/1200 psi to all 4 brakes, more than enough for normal drum operation.
In in Ridgetop TN, just north of Nashville. Thanks! Sent from my SM-G988U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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