The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mario.g., Aug 29, 2019.
The wider the tirers the more impact you will feel in the seat! That is a factor.
Add a VW style Steering Stabilizer, also there's a steering stabilizer kit for 53 to 59 Ford pickups that will work and is all bolt on. It will control any looseness in the front end without fixing everything else.
Use less tire pressure too, there is no weight on your front tires so try 23 Lbs in your front tires, see if it helps.
That quote is from the o/p thread about cooling, but I think it still applies. I see a lot of cars built with improper shock angles, improper bolt length, weird steering, etc. Although a vehicle may function with those it can lead to poor performance and may lead to failure at some point. Self-taught engineering can have limitations, especially when coupled with a know-it-all or don't give a hoot attitude.
Depends on who's doing the teaching.
Way too many leafs in the front spring you only need about 3 of the longer leafs.
At least you recognize that ...
You're really not worth the comment and I'm not here to hijack the op's thread, but your comments towards things you admittedly can't even see speaks volumes.
It would be helpful if , when you post pictures of a car as an example that , A. The pictures are clear enough to see detail , and B. The vehicle is an example of how to do things correctly.....
You guys should concetrate on making it safe before worrying about tire pressures and spring leaves. As stated way back, parallel wishbones on the front and rear axles is asking for a wreck.
I was following a friend coming back from a run. He had his wife and three kids in the car. The left wishone failed and the car darted off the road into the ditch and then up and across the road into the opposite ditch. It is a miracle ot did not turn over.
Fix the damned bones first.
Reading comprehension goes a long ways, my post was about the 45 degree of shackle angle, the next post stated that I had jam nuts in the proper place nothing else was mentioned until you opened your overwhelming opinionated pie hole. Then you admitted you are wrongfully commenting on things you can't even see and now your trying to blame me for showing a wrong example of what you can't see to complain about. You are out there, way the fuck out there......
Tut , Tut , no sense in getting all upset when someone's opinion is different than your own ....
Well that's certainly one way to bring a thread to a screeching halt. Nice goin.
Oh, and I thought you weren't sposed to use hairpins w/tube axle.?
Hey Andy, your opin on I beam with split wishbones? Just curious.
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A beam axle with split hairpins/radius rods is the best design.
I have a 32 axle with split bones on my roadster. It was never given any trouble and has been in use for 30 years.
Hey everyone. Ive been doing alot of research on the front of my T.
I'm starting to take the front apart. Thats why you dont see the u bolt in new pictures.
First thing i will do is leave 3 leaves .
Currently the T has 7.
I believe this will help a little with the suspension.
Next i did research on alot of diffrent model Ts. I do see some T with the bar in front like my T has it. But i want to be safe. You guys are telling me that that bar in the front has to be taken and put in the back. I found the piece i believe i need to help me with this.
This is the link to the T front end. That looks like mine but is correct .
This is the piece i need. Does anyone have any other websites i can buy this product from?
Be aware that there are a million different Fad T front axle kits out there, and the steering arms from one manufacturer might not fit correctly on your car. There are lots of things that might be in the way. Probably why the builder stuck the tie rod in the front in the first place. If you buy chrome pieces you can't bend them to fit without ruining the chrome.
If you want to use most of the parts you already have, read up on front axle Ackerman geometry and see how you could bend the current arms outward to correct the improper angle you currently have. It would leave the tie rod out front, but give you the correct (or really close to correct) geometry. Then all you'd need would be a new, longer tie rod tube.
Before spending a lot of money, you can turn your steering arms around and test fit that way. Just make sure your center link clears all your suspension components. If that doesn't work, then the parts you posted look like they will. you can see if Speedway Motors or Summit have something similar.
I think your on right track removing a few leaves. That spring looks like it would be right at home on a dump truck, not a T bucket.
Regarding your tie rod; I think you should first try reversing your existing steering arms so they are in rear. You may need to get dropped arms to clear, like these
The brackets in your link would have the tie rod at the top of the spindle, and it looks like that may interfere with your spring perch.
What's your location? Maybe someone in area could swing by
I agree with chopndrop. Move around the parts you have before spending money on new parts just to find out they aren't exactly what you need. If need be you can re clock the brake brackets to clear the arms. Having the calipers at the top is not a carved in stone deal.
Mario, seems like you're on the right track. Look at one thing at a time, ask questions and have patience. There are plenty of people here that are willing to help and please post pictures. We All love pictures!
It's not imperative to move the tie rod to the back, there's thousands of T's out there with it in the front, which is a true suicide front end, heck there's even gassers out there with it in the front running drag week without problems.
When you remove those leaves make sure you have enough threads left on the U-bolts to tighten them securely, also make sure and stand on that spring perch and bounce to make sure the new lowered stance doesn't have any interference issues.
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