Hot Rods Suspension designs

Yes I can see that, i was just referencing the overall ride height, more so the ground clearance I guess, let me see if I can find a better example

Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Here is a better example with 32 rails

Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

4" drop
15x5.50 fronts
15x7.00 rears
build some positive castor into the crossmember (+/- 8 degrees.)

also see the thread on here about wheels and stance
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/two-things-make-a-car-wheels-and-stance.1087971/

may want to type "front suspension" in the search bar at the top of the page... there hare literally 100's of threads on here about hot rod suspension set up

Chappy

 

ride height is built into the car
you have to build it how you want it to sit.
for that height and chassis, a 4inch axle would be a start
the rest is figured out with all the weight on the car.
both pics of 32 frames you used as an example has a very slight body overhang on the chassis, the body is slightly lower over the frame. I like this look on a model A. A 32 chassis can look "fat" with the body directly on top of the chassis.
A model A style front X member will lower the chassis over a stock 32 style front X member

 

Thanks, ill make sure and do that. Couldn't I adjust castor with the wishbones? Or does it need to be factored in to both places?

Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Thanks for the help!

Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

the wishbone or hairpins will hold the caster, it does help to also have the spring close to the desired caster. A zero caster spring mount and an axle held at 5-7 degrees caster will place unnecessary stress on the perches and shackles

 

I see what you mean, thats a good point

 

here is a crazy low 32 chassis that has been bobbed
look up Pinkeys rod shop for more info

 

These examples are setup pretty similar to my 32 pickup I posted earlier in this thread.. As far as the chassis setup goes there’s probably not much different going on.. I wanted a low stance but not to the point where you’re scrapping your he frame on driveway ramps and so forth. Mind you this pic was not with the final wheel and tire combinations and not at the full weight of the vehicle with all necessary parts installed.. But it was pretty close..

 

Here's another way to do it. Use later style bones with the spring in front. This puts the spring mount a lot lower than it is when it is on top of the axel. You have to modify (bend) the spring mounts or modify the bones behind the axle. I don't have a photo of stock wishbone set up but if you look at one you will see what I mean. You don't see this done very much any more but it wasn't that uncommon in the early days. The main problem is this will shorten up the wheelbase some but you can overcome that by moving the crossmember forward if you want.

 

MMM.
Thinking out of the box for that behemoth engine.....
3 Springer...semi ellipticals up front?
AA frame?
Later V8 frame up to '48 more car like, less horseless carriage like ?
or.....

Dump the MEL and get a 331 Cadillac, Flathead, Olds or SBC and keep it on the straight and narrow.

 

Not a chance, I like it too much, plus I already have it, there is no way I come out ahead if I try to sell it and get a different engine.

Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Go to Ebay and buy a copy of this book. "How To Build A Repro Rod" by John Thawley. There are several on Ebay for about $8 with free shipping. It will explain everything you need to know about your suspension and steering. It will save you a lot of grief............

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/cowl-steering-just-stop.1101046/

here is one of the best threads on steering on the HAMB
the info is from one of the best

 

https://clarkehotrods.com/category/projectupdates/

this thread has some good info on the front x members options
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...oadster-on-deuce-rails-project.1045429/page-4

 

here is some more info on a bobbed 32 chassis
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ncer-roadster-from-52-69-more-details.536915/

 

It looks like this would be your first hot rod build, correct? Do yourself a favor and don't stray too far from traditional build methods and styles. That bobbed 32 chassis above with the suicided spring behind axle setup, you'd be adding a lot more complication than would be wise for a 1st build. And you loose the visual appeal of the frame horns. You asked about negatives of going with a suicide front end, and some advice on that was already given, but something to add to that is the wheel base. There is a natural appeal to the stock setup, with the axle mounted below the crossmember with the radiator above. When you start moving those things around you're playing with the visual appeal of the car, and though some turn out well, IMO the majority don't. When the axle is pushed out in front it screws with the aesthetics, IMO. I think this is best left to those who aren't building their first rod. My advice, stick to the standard spring over axle set up. 4" dropped axle works well. Reverse the spring eyes. No need to re-invent the wheel, go with the tried & true. Split bones are maybe more traditional than hairpins, but hairpins have been around long enough and are traditional. An advantage they offer is the tie rod can run between the bars of the hairpins, so you don't have to struggle with bending steering arms to get the tie rod underneath the bones. I like to see traditional side steering on a rod, that's my preference, but the Vega box/cross steering works well too, I just like the aesthetics of the side mounted steering box, the pitman arm and the drag link running up to the drivers side front wheel, that's what looks right to me. But that is subjective and not everyone agrees, just a personal opinion.

 

the mentioned wheel base issue is something to consider. Some push the front slightly forward on fenderless cars. Most of the time to fit the engine and radiator.
Your building an odd set up with that engine, mock up everything before welding solid
grill shells look goofy when pushed forward of the axle center line (in my worthless opinion)

 

I see what you mean, but I'd like to keep my axle as far forward as possible for weight distribution, as well as lowering the engine as far as possible

Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Yeah this is the first one that I'm doing from start to finish, I've worked on other peoples before, but i wasnt planning them out. And thanks for the advice, the more i look at it, the more i think i am going to go spring over axle.... yeah I like the frame horns alot aswell, so if I dont have to cut them, I wont. As far as steering goes, I'll need to look into that further

Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Thanks for the reference material guys!

Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Since it's an A body on a 32 chassis he has the option to move the body backwards to gain some needed clearance. Like you said, he needs to mock it all up. Stretching the frame can gain another few inches without being too noticeable, but I'd recommend keeping the relationship of the axle to the radiator, in my mind that is critical to the aesthetics. Again, some guys get away with playing with that and changing things, and it works out. But it is a place where you can really screw things up if you're not careful.

Check out this sedan delivery, in this case I think it turned out OK, not great, but OK. But if it wasn't for that great Olds engine in there, eh, I don't know that I'd be so OK with it. You move that radiator shell out there like that, and you're playing with fire...

 

I KNOW I WILL CATCH A LOT OF FLACK FOR THIS.

Do NOT do this!!


I know a lot of guys are doing this and there will be comments one way or the other. But the fact of physics and science says this is a bad idea. The engineer in me SCREAMS " RUN FOREST RUN" every time I see this. Essentially the entire weight of the front of the car is hanging on 2, count them bolts in single shear. The moment load and the shear force on these bolts is scary.

If one of these perch pins breaks, the entire weight of the front corner will be driving the spring into the ground at what ever speed you are traveling at the time. I forsee Henry Ford sheet metal sliding, tumbling, and bouncing down the road only to stop once all the energy has subsided. By the time it stops, all your hard work could be a very mangled mess. And hopefully you survive.

Yeah, I know this is a key feature to the Rolling Bones type suspension build. they get away with it, YADA YADA YADA. The fact is there are a lot of cars built this way. Some have failed while others have not. The fact that you are running a heavy engine, your first build, etc. The cards are stacked against you. Proceed with caution and be educated before you go down that path.

 

cases to this point
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/oh-nooo-32-wreck.1078515/
here is the build thread before the wreck
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-394-b-32-ford-3w.1009026/

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/should-i-be-pissed-or-is-this-my-fault.304871/

 

Yeah, that MEL would shear those bolts in a heartbeat, especially considering that i dont exactly plan to baby this car