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Technical suspension 48 ford 1/2 ton ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by WP38, Jan 29, 2015.

  1. WP38
    Joined: Jan 23, 2015
    Posts: 268

    WP38
    Member

    IMG_0371.JPG IMG_0343.JPG38.jpg1.jpg FullSizeRender (4).jpg Looking at the original suspension I assume I will need to change the shocks to the new style ?
    Also all the bushings . I would like to be able to drive it safely on highway ,
    Would I require a mustang II front end $$$$
    I am picking up a ford 9 inch 28 spline 3:25 gears and most likely a c4 trans.
    The suspension will be covered by fenders so I don't need it pretty just functional .
     
  2. bobj49f2
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,804

    bobj49f2
    Member

    That doesn't look like the suspension on a '48 Ford truck
     
  3. Yep , not a f-1


    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  4. The '48 ford F-1 front suspension has dual leaf springs,what you are showing looks much more like a passenger car front suspension. HRP
     

  5. mt shasta steve
    Joined: Mar 26, 2010
    Posts: 270

    mt shasta steve
    Member

    I have a dropped straight axle under my coupe, and a mustang II under the '41 truck. Around town there's not much difference. But at freeway speeds the mustang front end wins hands down. For long term driveability, I would suggest the mustang II.
     
  6. jazz1
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,486

    jazz1
    Member

    Don't think you'd want original suspension for careening through Mississauga.. Looks like vintage car suspension on there currently.. Deflated loonie is going to make the M11 even more costly....maybe get the truck closer to finish stage before buying the IFS if that's where you are going...my neighbour put nova sub in his '46 ford truck and he grafted it on soooo nice,,,works well
    I have M11 in my '41 IHC truck
     
  7. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 10,697

    Petejoe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Zoar, Ohio

  8. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,590

    117harv
    Member

    Taken from the rules,


    5. As mentioned throughout these guidelines, the H.A.M.B. focuses on TRADITIONAL hot rods and customs. Posts pertaining to traditionally inspired, but not quite period perfect belong on the main forum found here. Please note that we don't focus on things such as modern fuel injected motors, big-inch wheels, frame clips, after market independent suspensions, etc... at all on the H.A.M.B.. As such, posts that stray away from the "traditional inspired" will be deleted.
     
    Robert J. Palmer likes this.
  9. Is this a unknown frame under something other than a 48 F-1? Something that you were told is 48 F-1? Because what you showed is not F-1 as HRP said.

    Give some more pics and of the vehicle it is under. Then you can get better advice on what you have and what other options might be.
     
  10. WP38
    Joined: Jan 23, 2015
    Posts: 268

    WP38
    Member

    ok seems the guy I bought this off told me bad info. So I have a car frame ? now I question if it is a 48 ,
    Suspension in the back had 1 leaf spring. Well I purchased the rear end and now the stud distance is smaller 4 3/8 on a 10 inch drum. add a couple pics . I assume I need the same size spindle for the front, looks like maybe a 68 Cougar
    The rear end just got has these numbers maybe out of a car 05aw 20 8D12 06AW8D12 4668
    IMG_0715.JPG IMG_0721.jpg IMG_0722.JPG IMG_0721.jpg IMG_0722.JPG IMG_0721.jpg IMG_0722.JPG IMG_0730.JPG IMG_0341.JPG IMG_1434.jpg IMG_0730.JPG IMG_0722.JPG
    I was told this was a 1938 international Harvister on a 1948 Ford frame , cab and doors sectioned.
    Thanks for any suggestions ,
     

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    Last edited: Jan 30, 2015
  11. WP38
    Joined: Jan 23, 2015
    Posts: 268

    WP38
    Member

    I would like to have it a traditional inspired when I figure out what I have or maybe it is custom looking for options feel free to move post if required thanks
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2015
  12. That rear axle is a 9 inch ford from the 60s-70s. Frame appears to be a 35-41 pickup or 35-48 ford car. Big kickup says 41-48 ford car. There are stamped numbers close to steering box mounting point on top of the rail...give us that number and it'll say exactly what it is.
     
  13. WP38
    Joined: Jan 23, 2015
    Posts: 268

    WP38
    Member

    the only numbers were 19A 5104 B thanks sorry didn't see any numbers on frame painted . I can strip the paint. IMG_0733.JPG
     
  14. That's a 41-47 car chassis.
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2015
  15. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,247

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    41-47 car. 48 used modern style shocks.
    Regardless...the truck you are building is at a crossroad where it can end up super cool or just a mismatched bunch of old and new style parts combined.
    You will need to consider your options very carefully to make it either a good Hot Rod or a good street rod.
    My goal would be Hot Rod, but then, thats just me and most others on here.
    I figure you might have the same goal considering you joined the HAMB.
     
  16. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,906

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Well, now is a good time to figure out where you are going with this project. is the intent to do a fenderless kinda truck? Is the idea making a full fendered truck that looks like a '38 International? You could go either way at this point, and would effect what I would put under it as a front suspension.

    Now, if you are going fenderless, and a more hot rod build, stick with the straight axle, but reconfigure it. We can work on that idea later if that's what you are wanting to do. It'll be a lot more work, but a fenderless truck with an independent front end will be double ugly no matter how you do it!

    If the idea is a full fendered, stock proportioned truck, then you start to look at independents. mustang II is great front end, and if you grab one out of a donor car, not too expensive to do. I'm not a super huge fan "kits" personally. But, were it mine, I think I would be seriously considering a Jaguar XJ6 front end. They are a lot more common than most seem to think, self contained, and cheap! I just bought one for only 75.00, and it was so low mileage that it will be run in my customer's '56 F-100 without a rebuild.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  17. WP38
    Joined: Jan 23, 2015
    Posts: 268

    WP38
    Member

    Exactly full fendered most likely without a hood don't have one LOL. the truck bed has been shortened .
    I am starting from scratch so I want to make a cool truck for my wife on junk yard budget. The goal was to have a good time in looking for parts and meeting other people with the same interests. I also chose this project to learn a whole lot .
    I would like to keep all the hubs the same bolt pattern . I am open to changing the engine as well as it needs minor or major work depending on HP required.
    Would like to use a c4 transmission automatic for my wife. I also need to find a set or make the running boards .
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  18. jazz1
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,486

    jazz1
    Member

    Very cool truck. If you don't have a good windshield frame start looking. That's the toughest part to find in good condition for the D model. They are generally rotted out under the rubber seal. There are no repop parts available for your truck so no phoning mail order for a new hood and doors. You can have a sheet metal shop bend you up some running boards easy enough. I would go long...run them all the way from front fender to rear fender. I have extra K model running boards that would likely work..They aren't going anywhere so check your options.. I would keep the frame since looks clean and solid. Just determine your needs in front end. You may source some oddball parts from this ihc forum http://oldihc.org/phpBB3/index.php
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  19. WP38
    Joined: Jan 23, 2015
    Posts: 268

    WP38
    Member

    IMG_0342.JPG IMG_0179.JPG IMG_0317.JPG IMG_0321.JPG
    Thanks the windshield molding is good just need to get glass cut to fit. also hinges . Doors good need side window actuator . I didn't realize there are so many different models of this truck
    Any chance you could send me a pic and length on running boards. thanks Ya parts are hard to find. Must be cold up north. cheers.
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2015
    volvobrynk likes this.
  20. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,906

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Don't worry as much about the bolt pattern on stuff. That is easy to change. Most hubs can be drilled to what ever pattern matches the other end pretty easily by a good machinist. If you don't have such a guy around you, (and trust me you do, finding him is the real problem these days!) I do have some here in Phoenix you could send your hubs too.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  21. WP38
    Joined: Jan 23, 2015
    Posts: 268

    WP38
    Member

    yes will need I might make a wood template and form the metal over it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2015
  22. WP38
    Joined: Jan 23, 2015
    Posts: 268

    WP38
    Member

     
  23. WP38
    Joined: Jan 23, 2015
    Posts: 268

    WP38
    Member

    I looked around here 1500 they want , wouldn't except even 250.00 for Jag XJ6 would you have any pics of install thanks
     
  24. WP38
    Joined: Jan 23, 2015
    Posts: 268

    WP38
    Member

    What options would make a great hot rod ?
     
  25. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    Make it look like good truck! Go simple, do run it with out hod, and go era specific.

    So run black wall tires, steelies and simple paint job. Run a hood.
    If you want a never look run mags or torque trusts, bun not to tall rims and nothing billet.

    If you are running flathead and manual you came a long way! You are in the right place, show us!
     
  26. I believe Ford trucks ran buggy springs to 41. I only skimmed this so this may have been pointed out.
     
  27. 19A prefix on the part number on the steering box mount means the part was first used on '41 Mercury. You have a Merc frame, longer wheelbase than its Ford cousin.
     
  28. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,247

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Use period equipment where you can.
    Once you go to IFS and other parts along those lines you tend to lose out to the Street Rod vibe.
    Some stuff you can get away with as long as the part doesn't overly grab your attention, like a disc brake kit on an original axle. Disc brakes are used so much they tend to blend in visually anyway.
    You must be selective on what you use and consider the parts influence on the overall visuals of the vehicle...keeping in mind the look you really want to bring forward.
    You can still have a nice driving, reliable vehicle with the old style parts...and theres no beating the look!
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  29. WP38
    Joined: Jan 23, 2015
    Posts: 268

    WP38
    Member

    Thanks starting to make sence what I have
     
  30. WP38
    Joined: Jan 23, 2015
    Posts: 268

    WP38
    Member

    IMG_0762.JPG IMG_0764.JPG IMG_0765.JPG IMG_0756.JPG
    Agree want to use as much of the old as possible. I will change spindles to match bak studs 5 x 4.5 and add a disk brake.as well as modern shocks. All hiden by fenders.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2015

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