'working on a rough car and I'm new to bodywork. Fenders and doors are off and worked them to steel, patched, filled and primed . Dp 50, Rage, Dp and K36 . K36 Surfacer ready for final sanding but few other very light dings missed while in steel still show up in odd places. I don't expect concours with my first attempt, the major door, fender and body panels took a lot of time getting straight but missed tiny "original" dings I find while blocking are discouraging. I used "icing" to finish pinholes and sanding scratches in the filler before K36. I ran out of the pricey K36 and thinking the K38 or a polyester type filler for final surfacer with more hide/build after assembling car . Is there Omni line surfacer compatible?. More "icing" work needed?, can polyester primer/surfacer (g2 type?) help?. Final color is single stage Concept Ford white. Thanks, Suggestions appreciated. - .
I've been using a high build primer for about 3 years now with great success. It's called "featherfill" by Evercoat. The same people that make Rage Body filler. I've used it on aluminum, raw steel, and plastic body parts. I've sprayed, single stage, basecoat/clearcoat, and all kinds of HOK candies with absolutely zero problems. It runs about $35 a quart! I've used way more expensive PPG, Dupont, PCL and HOK primers. And this stuff works awesome. Sands out easily, you can spray multiple coats to fill in low spots, pinholes, sandscratches, etc. Dries super fast and NO SHRINKAGE!!!! HOK recommends a primer/sealer before spraying candy colors over repaired areas. I've done a lot of candy jobs over the featherfill without having to do so. No bleed through or discoloration. I was reluctant at first, based on the low price, but this is my "go-too" primer now.
Omni line makes a spray polyester also, I don't recall the number off hand and I am on the road so can't go check, check with your Omni dealer.
After looking at the photos...I would re-shoot the panels again with primer, spray a guide coat with a contrasting color, block sand with a long board, glaze the imperfections, repeat the process. It's virtually impossible to tell if your body work will pass without doing it this way. Even in white, imperfections are going to show. Better to spend the time getting a perfectly prepped panel than to paint over a surface that is not quite ready.
What ever you decide to use my recommendation is to stick with one product line thru your foundation work, mixing differant manufactures products is not a stable foundation to put your final color over. Your paint job is only as good as the foundation work and at the cost of product you dont want a reaction to differant products, after 25 years in auto body this would be my two cents!
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