Technical Surface Rust ... how to protect it from growing under car ?

Oxidation. When moisture cured urethane primers were developed for corrosion work a came in one color aluminum. The resin is completely waterproof has great adhesion and the aluminum flake in layers at least two coats is what blocks the oxygen. When you substitute black pigment from the resin you then have industrial concrete and wood floor sealer with color.Concrete floors need to breathe. If a coating breathes it will rust. That's why it rusts when you use the black. This coating system is called The Three coat polyurethane system and is been the industry standard for 40 years.It's two coats of the aluminum pigmented primer with a topcoat or three coats of silver.This is why I selected it 30 years ago.You can take the rust on the bottom of your car and spray it with a converter it will last a couple years and it will re-rust if you're looking for the easy way out

 

I put this on a lot of stuff.

Aluminum filled, silver, two coats, and top-coat it before it fully dries.

http://www.pettitpaint.com/products/primers/above-the-waterline/rustlok-steel-primer/

It's been solid, on several places that I have put it, for over 25-years.

 

i just drive around with a Flathead that leaks oil......

 

Went out today and bought some fluid film. Going to test it on a rusty panel and then on a panel that is been metal prepped.So far I have some self etching primer three coats, three coats epoxy, three coats of rustoleum rusty primer. One side of the panel is treated with metal prep the other side is not.

 

I tried Fluid Film ....
it's messy ... like a soft buttery layer that block the air to get to the rust but I don't like the tacky film it leave behind ....

Next up ti try is Corroseal ....
which suppose to turn the rust back and leave a hard surface like a primer which you can paint over .... get behind steel rims that have surface rust etc .... will spray it on with a air gun

 

Okay I'm going broke here. We just developed a rust converter and turns the rust black and is been outside for three months now. It still looks good. It's called Tru Cure. I'll throw in the tank also.

 

Started the chamber today we have rustoleum rusty metal primer, SPI epoxy, transtar *self etching primer and Mastercoat. These panels have three coats and were allowed to cure for 14 days at least. We also have fluid film and inner panel protector one heavy coat. From previous experience we should see degradation on some of these panels within 30 days

The 90 Day Road. salt test was just completed. The results were exactly the same as the 5% test I posted recently.

I was surprised when I sprayed a couple of panels with brake clean that my thumb stuck to the panel of the epoxy and the self etching prime. You learn something every day.
I will post the video shortly what I figure out how to do it if any of you would like to perform these tests all that's needed is a plastic container or small aquarium a fogger and a small heater and you can conduct your own paint tests. The next challenge is going to be coating systems that will withstand salt brine used here in the upper region of the country.

Recently acquired some methylene chloride paint remover, brush on and it sucked. I applied it to his 60s era Volkswagen panel with no effect whatsoever. I'm going to have to try to soup this stuff up

 

Doesn't seem to be any interest So nevermind

 

I used Por-15 on my snow blower, inside, outside, auger, chute. Put on as above it tolerate plenty since I have a stone drive way. About 60 hrs of use, auger gets edge bare quick from occasional stones

 

Yep, I know how to read prep instructions. I have POR 15 prep solvent and thinner as well, have overpaid and been disappointed in with several products in their line up.
Its a very inconsistent product.
The performance is poor
Its Garbage.
Rustoleum rusty metal primer outperforms POR 15 in my experience - thats not a shining endorsement.

Dont believe the hype - move away from the POR 15, do real prep, to bare metal by blasting or using an acid etch.

 

Shot thinned Danish oil on the bottom of my daily driver last weekend.

Danish oil is a drying furniture oil blend - contains linseed and other oils. - dries fast.

We'll see how it holds up thru a Chicago winter, if it protects anything.