Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Support of Radiator/Grill without hood

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by HuskerNation, Sep 15, 2020.

  1. HuskerNation
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 266

    HuskerNation
    Member
    from Montana

    I’ve got a bit of a shaking problem with the radiator & grill shell since my hood isn’t on my 37 Hudson. So I’m wondering what others may suggest to firm things up before I damage something?

    Currently there are two bolts at the bottom of the radiator holding it to a frame member, the two rods on top going from the firewall to the top of radiator surround & one bolt down at the bottom of the grill chin. My thoughts on a temporary fix was to use some angle iron to go from the radiator sides where the hood latches to the firewall, on each side. (Similar to the aluminum bar I’m holding in photo). Plus one bar from the center of the grill to the firewall, where the hood would attach.

    IMG_3222.JPG IMG_3222.JPG


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  2. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 4,040

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.
    1. Y-blocks

    Things I do to most shell an rad, is bolt them together fairly well,4 or more bolts,so they are a unit ,then mount the base of rad to frame with 1/4in. thick rubber pads between rad an frame. The 2 fire wall to shell should be enough. I would not of "X" them,but if that is a stock set up,fine.
    On a lower shell n rad.,like I use on most of the rods I work on,have used 2 angle rods running from about mid way up the shell,down to frame around 6in. to 1 ft. or so ,back on frame vs anything running along above the engine to fire wall.
    Just ideas,if that helps any !
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 15, 2020
    alanp561 and 5window like this.
  3. Is your radiator mounted to the frame using bolt's and spring's? that will reduce a lot of shaking and unnecessary fatigue with the radiator mounts. HRP

    [​IMG]
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  4. HuskerNation
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 266

    HuskerNation
    Member
    from Montana

    There aren’t any springs, just a couple old (hard) rubber pads but I’ll have to check that idea out. Where’s the best place to pick those up at?

    I think a big part of the problem is this is the regular Hudson 122” wheel base vs the shorter 117” Terraplane model but basically has the same 212ci engine. So there’s a big shroud that pushes the radiator back to the engine. That shroud is soldered to the radiator sides & that’s really what holds the whole grill in place.

    There is enough room for a straight 8 engine & if it was in there the shroud is gone & a more direct & secure attached is achieved with the radiator & grill.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     

  5. HuskerNation
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 266

    HuskerNation
    Member
    from Montana

    Dana, is this the rod you install?
    Adjustments.JPG

    I do have the ability to do such a thing easily on one side and with the battery box on the other I’d just have to create a work around, but it’s possible. Can you tell me more about the rod you use?



    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  6. Without the Hood the support rods have a design flaw. Just look at the L bracket on the adjuster end of the rods. That bracket will flex quite a bit with road vibration. Add a second leg back to the firewall so it can't. In other words, box it together. You may also have other issues with how the Core support is mounted but we can't see that part. On those cars the hood and latch assembly are some what structural.
    [​IMG]
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  7. The bolt & spring set is available at any shop that sells hot rod or original parts. HRP
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  8. HuskerNation
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 266

    HuskerNation
    Member
    from Montana

    Yep, I just wiggled those brackets at the firewall! Never even thought they’d move.... live & learn!

    Your correct with the hood latching at the edge of the grill shell & then back at the firewall, it definitely is a support structure having the hood in place.

    IMG_3222.JPG IMG_3222.JPG


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  9. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,851

    squirrel
    Member

    ...put the hood back on.
     
  10. AngleDrive
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 821

    AngleDrive
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Florida

    I'm with Jim on this one
     
    alanp561 likes this.
  11. I have to agree with Squirrel. Some Cars just aren't ment to be Hoodless. This car has Class, not in your face Bad Boy. To much of the Car missing without it.
    [​IMG]
     
    alanp561 likes this.
  12. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 1,356

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    I'm with the don't cross the rods group....

    It seems by crossing your doing 2 things to hurt you. 1- you add alot of length to the rods allowing them to become even more flimsy and 2- you create a very narrow spot right between the firewall and shell allowing alot of flex and twist right there.

    But then again what do I know ? :p
     
  13. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 4,040

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.
    1. Y-blocks

    Yes, that's it !
    I did one each side,the angle going back is not a lot,but my shell/rad is pretty low,so didn't need a lot. Those are stainless polished tube with ends for small bolts.
    How I look at rods an HOODs;
    No hood="Full hot rod CLEAVAGE"*
    Or using only the top of a hood is limited cleavage,an full hood is zero.
    Got to do what makes you happy n smile
     
  14. My take on the Cross the rod issue and length. When you have what's in the photo with the Rods crossed and clamped tight together where they make contact you now effectively have 4 rods. For them to contribute to the movement they must flex between the center clamp and there individual contact points. I kind of doubt that's happening. I take more issue with the single center mount core support system and for years now have been changing that style over to 2 mounts on the outer lower point of the core support. That gives you a much more stable mount system and you can fine tune the total sheetmetal system to make a better fit and stop flex fractures at bolt holes in the
     
  15. Almostdone
    Joined: Dec 19, 2019
    Posts: 310

    Almostdone
    Member

    It seems to me that the angle of the crossed support rods invites fore and aft flex as compared to rods that are closer to parallel with the lengthwise axis of the car. Think of a wide “X’ vs. a tight “V” (the alphabet makes for a poor example). Another way to think of it is that a rod is more flexible laterally than lengthwise.

    Perhaps you can move the mounting points so the rods are straighter with the long axis of the car.

    Just a thought.

    Also get the pads and springs to mount the radiator as mentioned earlier.
     
  16. Illustrious Hector
    Joined: Jun 15, 2020
    Posts: 62

    Illustrious Hector
    Member
    from Alberta

    I agree, the rods would provide more support if they weren't crossed
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.